Palm Springs is weird. I mean that in the best way possible, but let’s be honest: if you roll into town expecting just a bunch of retirees playing shuffleboard or a never-ending Coachella party, you're going to be confused. The city is a bizarre, beautiful blend of mid-century high fashion and brutalist desert nature. Most people looking for what to see in Palm Springs end up on a loop between a crowded brunch spot and a hotel pool. You can do better.
You’ve got the San Jacinto Mountains literally leaning over the city like a giant granite wave, and then you’ve got these perfectly manicured lawns that shouldn't exist in a drought. It’s a place of contradictions.
The Vertical Escape: Why the Aerial Tramway is Non-Negotiable
If you only do one "touristy" thing, make it the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Seriously. It’s the world’s largest rotating tram car, which sounds like a gimmick until you’re suspended thousands of feet in the air and the floor starts slowly spinning. You start at the Valley Station in the sweltering heat—maybe 105°F—and ten minutes later, you step out at Mountain Station and you’re shivering in 60-degree weather.
It’s a literal life zone shift. You go from the Sonoran Desert to an alpine forest.
Up there, you’ve got over 50 miles of hiking trails in Mount San Jacinto State Park. Most folks just walk to the overlook, take a selfie, and head back for a cocktail. Don't be that person. If you've got the lungs for it, hike toward Wellman’s Cienega. The silence up there is heavy. It’s a total reset from the neon lights of Palm Canyon Drive. Just remember that the air is thin. You'll get winded faster than you think, especially if you spent the previous night testing the martini limits at Melvyn’s.
Architecture Isn't Just for History Nerds Here
Palm Springs has the highest concentration of mid-century modern architecture in the world. That sounds dry. It’s not. It’s like walking through a 1950s vision of the future that actually came true.
You need to see the Kaufmann Desert House. Designed by Richard Neutra in 1946, it’s basically a glass and steel masterpiece that looks like it grew out of the rocks. You can't usually go inside—it’s a private residence—but even seeing it from the street gives you a sense of why this style defines the desert. Then there’s the Frey House II. Albert Frey basically built his home around a giant boulder. It’s perched high on the hill, overlooking the valley, and it’s tiny. It proves that luxury in the desert isn't about square footage; it's about how you frame the view.
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The Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway and the "House of Tomorrow"
People flock to the Alexander Estate, famously known as the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway. It’s got those iconic circular living areas and a vacuum-sealed 1960s vibe. Honestly, it’s a bit kitschy, but it’s a staple of what to see in Palm Springs if you care about the celebrity DNA of the town. The Alexanders were the developers who basically built the modern version of this city, and their personal home was a laboratory for every wild design idea they had.
Sunnylands: Where Presidents Go to Hide
Down the road in Rancho Mirage is Sunnylands. This was the estate of Walter and Leonore Annenberg. Think of it as the "Camp David of the West." Obama spent time here. Reagan was a regular. The gardens are inspired by impressionist paintings, and the 25,000-square-foot house is a pink-roofed marvel of design.
You have to book tours way in advance. Like, months. If you can’t get a house tour, just walk the gardens. They’re free. They used 70,000 arid-adapted plants to create this geometric, soothing landscape that feels like a fever dream of order and calm.
The Hiking Reality Check: Indian Canyons vs. Tahquitz
Look, everyone goes to Tahquitz Canyon because it has a waterfall. Yes, a 60-foot waterfall in the desert is cool. But it’s also crowded, and you have to pay an entrance fee to the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. It’s worth it once.
But if you want the real soul of the desert, go to the Indian Canyons—specifically Andreas Canyon.
The contrast is wild. You’re walking through jagged, red rock walls, and suddenly you hit a massive grove of California Fan Palms. They follow the stream like a green ribbon. It feels prehistoric. You half expect a pterodactyl to fly over. It’s significantly cooler under the canopy of those palms, making it one of the few places you can actually hike when the sun starts getting aggressive in the late morning.
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The Shopping Trap (and How to Avoid It)
Palm Canyon Drive is the main drag. It’s fine. There are statues of Lucille Ball and various "Walk of Stars" plaques on the sidewalk. But if you want to see the real creative energy of the city, head to the Uptown Design District.
This is where the vintage furniture shops live.
The prices are high.
The style is higher.
Places like The Frippery or Trina Turk’s flagship store are where the "Palm Springs Look" is curated. Even if you aren't buying a $5,000 velvet sofa, walking through these showrooms is an education in color theory. The desert light does something weird to colors; oranges look brighter, and turquoises look deeper. The local designers lean into that.
Desert X and the Art of the Unexpected
If you happen to visit during a Desert X biennial, your itinerary is basically chosen for you. This is an outdoor art exhibition where massive installations are scattered across the Coachella Valley. One year, there was a house made entirely of mirrors that "disappeared" into the landscape. Another year, there was a giant yellow ramp in the middle of nowhere.
It forces you to drive to places you’d never otherwise go. You end up in Desert Hot Springs or out by the Salton Sea, looking for a piece of art and discovering the raw, unpolished side of the desert.
Moorten Botanical Garden: The "Cactarium"
It’s small. It’s family-owned. It’s incredible.
The Moorten Botanical Garden is a "living museum" of desert lore. They have a "Cactarium"—which is a word they coined—filled with rare succulents and cacti that look like they belong on another planet. It’s a bit dusty and chaotic compared to the polished resorts, but that’s the charm. It’s a glimpse into the old-school, rugged Palm Springs that existed before the infinity pools took over.
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Why the Windmills Matter
Driving into Palm Springs from the west, you pass thousands of wind turbines. Most people just see them as a backdrop for a car commercial. But the San Gorgonio Pass is one of the windiest places in the United States.
There are actual windmill tours you can take. It sounds nerdy, but standing at the base of one of those things while it thrums and cuts the air is humbling. It’s a reminder that this whole city is built on an environment that is constantly trying to push humans out.
The Culinary Scene: Beyond the "Tourist Brunch"
When you’re looking at what to see in Palm Springs, don't ignore the food, but be strategic. Skip the places with the loudest music.
Go to Sherman’s Deli & Bakery. It’s a landmark. It’s not "modern," but the corned beef is legendary. If you want the old-school Hollywood vibe, Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Inn is the spot. Frank Sinatra had a designated table there. They still do table-side service for things like Steak Diane. It’s expensive, it’s theatrical, and it’s exactly what you want if you’re trying to channel 1965.
For something actually modern, Workshop Kitchen + Bar is stunning. It’s located in a converted 1920s movie theater office, and the concrete interior is a masterclass in industrial design. The food is farm-to-table, which is impressive considering "the farm" usually involves a lot of irrigation in this climate.
Essential Actionable Steps for Your Trip
Don't just wing it. The desert is unforgiving, and the city’s popularity means the best spots fill up fast.
- Book the Tram Early: If you try to buy tickets at 11:00 AM on a Saturday, you’re going to be waiting in the heat for three hours. Go for the first car up in the morning.
- Hydrate or Die: This isn't a joke. You lose moisture through your skin before you even feel sweaty because the air is so dry. Carry twice as much water as you think you need, especially on the trails in Indian Canyons.
- Check the Seasonal Calendar: Palm Springs basically shuts down—or at least slows to a crawl—in July and August. If you visit then, you'll get great hotel deals, but you won't be able to be outside between 10:00 AM and 7:00 PM.
- The "Village Fest" Factor: Every Thursday night, the main street shuts down for a street fair. It’s great for people-watching and local food, but a nightmare for parking. If you’re staying downtown, just walk. If not, get there by 5:00 PM.
- Download Offline Maps: Once you head into the canyons or up the mountain, cell service becomes a suggestion rather than a reality.
Palm Springs is more than a backdrop for an Instagram post. It’s a resilient, high-design community carved out of some of the harshest terrain in North America. Whether you’re staring at a mid-century roofline or a 500-year-old palm tree, the key is to look up. The beauty here is almost always found in the vertical lines—the mountains, the palms, and the architecture that tries to reach them.