Paihia is a bit of a contradiction. If you roll into town on a humid Tuesday in February, you might think it’s just a seaside strip of fish and chip shops and backpacker bars. But honestly, it’s the gateway to the Bay of Islands, a place that holds the literal DNA of New Zealand. Most people come for the dolphins and leave with a sunburn. They’re missing the point.
The Bay of Islands isn’t just a collection of 144 islands; it’s where the Māori world and the British Empire first collided and, eventually, signed a very complicated piece of paper. If you’re just here for the jet boat rides, you're eating the icing and throwing away the cake.
Why Everyone Ends Up in Paihia Anyway
Paihia is basically the "base camp." It’s where the buses drop you off and where the big catamarans dock. Is it the most beautiful town in the North Island? Probably not—Russell, just across the water, is way prettier. But Paihia has the infrastructure. You’ve got the supermarkets, the dive shops, and the bars that stay open late enough to actually enjoy a sunset.
It’s functional.
You'll spend a lot of time at the wharf. That's the heart of the machine. From here, you can get to Urupukapuka Island, go parasailing, or catch the ferry to Russell. The water is usually a startling shade of turquoise, especially if the wind is coming from the east. It looks like the Caribbean, but the water temperature will quickly remind you that you’re in the South Pacific. It's refreshing. Or freezing, depending on your internal thermostat.
The Treaty of Waitangi: More Than Just a History Lesson
Walk twenty minutes north from the Paihia town center and you’ll hit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. You can't talk about the Bay of Islands without talking about this patch of grass. This is where the Treaty of Waitangi (Te Tiriti o Waitangi) was signed in 1840.
Most tourists do a quick lap, take a photo of the massive waka (war canoe), and head back to the beach. That’s a mistake. If you want to understand why New Zealand functions the way it does today—including the current political tensions over Te Tiriti—you need to actually listen to the guides. The Te Whare Rūnanga (meeting house) is an architectural masterpiece of carving that represents different iwi (tribes) from across the country.
The museum there, Te Kōngahu, is surprisingly modern. It doesn't feel like a dusty school project. It lays out the fact that the English and Māori versions of the treaty didn't actually say the same thing. One side thought they were giving up sovereignty; the other thought they were just allowing the British to manage the rowdy settlers. We’re still figuring that mess out 180 years later.
Island Hopping Without the Crowds
The "Cream Trip" is the famous boat tour. It follows the old route of the boats that used to deliver mail and supplies to the islands. It’s a long day. It’s good, but it can feel a bit like a cattle call when the boats are at full capacity.
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If you’ve got the budget, rent a small charter or a sailing boat.
Urupukapuka Island is the gem. It’s managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) and it’s completely pest-free. This means the birdsong is actually loud. Like, wake-you-up-in-the-morning loud. There are hiking trails that ridge-hop across the island, giving you 360-degree views of the archipelago. Most people stick to the Otehei Bay cafe area. Don't be "most people." Walk thirty minutes over the hill to Cable Bay or Sunset Bay. You’ll likely have the beach to yourself, save for a few oystercatchers.
The Hole in the Rock "Trap"
Everyone asks about the Hole in the Rock at Motukōkako.
Yes, it’s a big rock with a hole in it. Yes, if the sea is calm, the captains will drive the boat through it. It’s a cool trick. But here’s the reality: it’s a long, often choppy boat ride out to the end of the Cape Brett peninsula. If you get seasick, you are going to have a miserable three hours just for a ten-second transit through a cave.
If the swell is over two meters, the boats can’t go through anyway. Check the marine forecast on MetService before you book. If the wind is howling from the northeast, maybe stay in the inner bay and go kayaking toward Haruru Falls instead.
Russell: The "Hell Hole of the Pacific"
You have to take the ferry from Paihia to Russell. It costs about $15 to $20 for a return ticket and takes fifteen minutes. Today, Russell is an incredibly posh, quiet village with white picket fences and expensive Chardonnay.
In the early 1800s, it was known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific."
It was a lawless port full of whalers, deserters, and grog shops. The Christ Church in Russell still has bullet holes in its wooden walls from the Battle of Kororāreka in 1845. It’s the oldest surviving church in New Zealand. Walking through the graveyard there is a trip—you’ll see the graves of young sailors from all over the world who died thousands of miles from home, often in pretty gruesome ways.
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Diving the Rainbow Warrior
For the divers, the Bay of Islands is famous for the Rainbow Warrior wreck. This was the Greenpeace flagship that was bombed by French secret agents in Auckland Harbour in 1985. It was later scuttled near the Cavalli Islands to act as an artificial reef.
It’s covered in jewel anemones now. It’s haunting. It’s a bit of a trek from Paihia—you’ll usually have to drive north to Matauri Bay or book a specialized dive boat—but it’s one of the most famous temperate water dives on the planet. If that’s too far, the HMNZS Canterbury wreck in Deep Water Cove is closer and equally massive.
The Local Food Reality Check
Paihia has a lot of "tourist food." You know the type: generic burgers and overpriced Caesar salads.
If you want the real stuff, look for a "Real Fruit Ice Cream" sign—it’s basically frozen berries mashed into vanilla ice cream on the spot. It’s a summer staple. For dinner, honestly, grab some snapper and chips from the local chippy and sit on the grass at the beach. Watch the sunset. It’s better than any $50 sit-down meal in town.
Charlotte’s Kitchen on the end of the wharf is decent for a drink with a view, but the Duke of Marlborough in Russell is where you go if you want to feel fancy. They’ve had a liquor license since 1827. They know what they’re doing.
Practical Logistics for the Modern Traveler
Getting here is easy, but slow. It’s about a 3.5-hour drive from Auckland. The road is windy. State Highway 1 is prone to closures near the Brynderwyn Hills, so always check the NZTA Waka Kotahi website before you leave.
- Best time to visit: February and March. The water is warmest and the Christmas crowds have gone back to work.
- Avoid: Late December to mid-January. It’s chaos. You won't find a parking spot, and the boat tours will be packed to the rafters.
- Wildlife: We don't "swim" with dolphins as much as we used to. New regulations are strict to protect the local bottlenose population, which has been declining. If a tour operator says they guarantee a swim, they might be skirting the rules. Most tours are now "viewing only" if calves are present.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Region
People think the Bay of Islands is a "tropical" destination. It’s not. It’s sub-tropical. That means it rains. A lot. Sometimes it rains for three days straight in the middle of summer.
If you get stuck in Paihia in the rain, don't just sit in your hotel. Go to the Kawiti Glow Worm Caves in Lebretton. They are privately owned by a local Māori family and are far less "corporate" than the famous Waitomo caves down south. You get to see the glow worms and the limestone formations without the massive crowds.
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Also, don't sleep on Kerikeri. It’s a 20-minute drive inland from Paihia. It has the Stone Store (NZ’s oldest building) and some incredible orchards. The Saturday morning market in Kerikeri is where the locals actually hang out. It’s where you buy the good honey and the macadamia nuts that haven't been marked up for tourists.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
To actually see the Bay of Islands properly, you need a plan that avoids the "bus tour" vibe.
First, book your accommodation in Paihia for the convenience, but spend at least one full afternoon and evening in Russell. Take the car ferry across from Opua if you want to explore the back roads of the peninsula—the drive out to the Long Beach or the Tapeka Point track is worth the petrol.
Second, check the tide charts. If you’re planning on visiting the Haruru Falls, they look significantly better at high tide when the water is pushed up the river. You can rent a kayak from Ti Beach and paddle up the Waitangi River to the base of the falls. It’s a workout, but it’s one of the few things you can do for under $50.
Third, engage with the history. Read a bit about Hone Heke before you arrive. He’s the guy who kept chopping down the British flagpole in Russell. Knowing why he did that makes looking at the current flagpole (which is rigged with iron so it can’t be chopped) a lot more interesting.
Finally, get out on the water early. The bay is glassy in the morning. By 2:00 PM, the "sea breeze" usually kicks in and things get choppy. If you're doing a boat trip, the 8:00 AM or 9:00 AM departures are almost always a better experience than the afternoon slots.
The Bay of Islands is a place of deep "mana" (prestige/spiritual power). If you rush it, you'll just see some pretty islands. If you slow down and look at the bullet holes and the carvings, you'll see New Zealand.