Cabo has changed. Honestly, if you haven’t been to the tip of Baja in a decade, you might not even recognize the corridor between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. It’s a sea of glass-walled modernism and infinity pools that look identical on Instagram. But right in the middle of this high-end noise sits the One&Only Palmilla. It’s old school. Not "old" in a dusty way, but in a way that feels like it has actual soul, which is becoming a rare commodity in luxury travel.
Most people just call it the One&Only. It was originally built in 1956 as a 15-room hideaway for the son of the President of Mexico. Back then, you had to fly in on a private plane because there weren't even paved roads. That history matters. It’s why the property sits on the most coveted piece of land in the region.
The Swimmable Beach Factor
Let’s talk about the biggest lie in Cabo marketing. Most resorts tell you they are "oceanfront," which is true, but they conveniently leave out the part where the Pacific currents will literally pull you to Hawaii if you step foot in the water. Most beaches here are red-flagged 365 days a year.
One&Only Palmilla is different because it sits on Pelican Beach. It’s one of the few swimmable blue-flag beaches in the area.
You can actually wake up, walk past your butler—yes, every room gets one—and dive into the Sea of Cortez without a lifeguard blowing a whistle at you. It’s a game-changer. If you’ve ever stayed at a $2,000-a-night resort where you can only look at the water from a concrete pool deck, you know how frustrating that is. Here, the water is part of the life of the resort, not just a backdrop.
The Butler Culture
Some people find the whole "butler service" thing a bit cringey. I get it. It sounds pretentious. But at this property, the majordomos are basically project managers for your relaxation. They aren't just there to unpack your suitcase. They track your preferences with a level of detail that’s bordering on psychic.
If you mentioned once that you prefer sparkling water with lime, it just starts appearing. They handle the "Cabo hustle"—booking the hard-to-get tables at Flora Farms or organizing a tequila tasting that isn't a tourist trap. It’s about removing the friction of travel.
Why the Architecture Still Wins
While the new Rosewood or Montage properties are stunningly minimalist, they can feel a bit cold. The One&Only leans into the Mexican colonial aesthetic. We’re talking white-washed walls, heavy wood beams, and hand-painted tiles. It feels like a grand hacienda.
The rooms are massive. Even the "entry-level" oceanfront rooms feel like suites. But the real flex is the Villa Cortez or Villa One. These aren’t just rooms; they are four-bedroom estates with their own screening rooms and private gyms. Celebrities love them because the privacy is airtight. You can stay there for a week and never see another guest if you don't want to.
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The grounds are a jungle. Literally. The landscaping team manages thousands of palms and flowering plants that have had decades to mature. New resorts can’t fake that. You can’t buy 50-year-old trees and make them look this settled. There’s a specific smell at the Palmilla—a mix of sea salt, damp earth, and jasmine—that stays with you.
Food, Jean-Georges, and the Reality of Cabo Pricing
Let's be real: Cabo is expensive. It’s become the San Francisco of Mexico. At the One&Only, you’re going to pay. But the quality at SEARED (the steakhouse by Jean-Georges Vongerichten) actually justifies the bill. They have a "beef sommelier." It sounds ridiculous until you’re looking at a selection of A5 Wagyu and local cuts that are aged specifically for the property.
If you want something more local, Agua is where it’s at. The "Mexiterranean" concept sounds like a buzzword, but the execution is flawless. They do a sea bass with salsa verde that is probably the best thing I’ve eaten in Baja.
- Pro Tip: Don’t skip the ceviche bar.
- The tuna is caught locally and usually served within hours.
- The cocktail program uses actual hand-carved ice, which sounds small but makes a huge difference in the 90-degree heat.
The Spa and the "Cleanse"
The spa here isn't just a place for a quick massage. It’s a 22,000-square-foot sanctuary. They do these ancient Mexican healing rituals called Temazcal. It’s a sweat lodge experience led by a shaman. It’s intense. It’s not for everyone. But if you’re looking for a "reset" that goes deeper than a facial, this is where the property shines. They also have a Pedi:Mani:Cure Studio by Bastien Gonzalez. If you know, you know. He’s the guy who revolutionized medical-grade pedicures. It’s weirdly life-changing.
Managing Expectations: The Cons
Nothing is perfect. Because the One&Only Palmilla is an older, established property, the layout is sprawling. There are hills. There are stairs. While they have a fleet of golf carts to whisk you around, it’s not a "compact" resort. If you have mobility issues, you need to be very specific about which building you stay in.
Also, the vibe is refined. If you’re looking for a "Cabo Wabo" party scene with loud music by the pool and shots of cheap tequila, you will be miserable here. It’s quiet. The guests are mostly high-net-worth families, couples on honeymoons, or tech execs trying to disappear for four days.
The Golf Legend
You can't talk about this place without mentioning the Palmilla Golf Club. It’s a Jack Nicklaus Signature course—actually his first in Latin America. It has 27 holes, divided into three nines: Arroyo, Mountain, and Ocean.
The Ocean nine is the one everyone wants. It drops 600 feet from the first tee to the beach. It’s challenging because of the wind, but the views of the Sea of Cortez are distracting. Even if you aren't a "golf person," the practice facility is top-tier.
Actionable Advice for Your Stay
If you’re planning a trip to the One&Only Palmilla, don’t just book a random room on a travel site. Here is how to actually maximize the experience:
1. Request a room in the Tres Palmas or Casa Margarita buildings. These are generally considered to have the best views and the most convenient access to the main pool and beach area.
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2. Book your dinner at SEARED well in advance. Especially during peak season (Christmas through Easter), the prime time slots fill up weeks out. If you wait until you arrive, you’ll be eating at 9:30 PM.
3. Use the airport transfer service. Yes, it’s more expensive than a local taxi or an Uber. However, the One&Only SUVs are stocked with cold water, Wi-Fi, and snacks. After a long flight and the chaos of the San José del Cabo airport, having a private driver waiting with a sign is worth the premium.
4. Explore the "Secret" Spots. There are small, tucked-away daybeds and seating areas scattered along the cliffside. Ask your butler to set up a private sunset drink at one of these spots rather than sitting at the main bar. It’s significantly more private and costs the same.
5. Check the whale watching calendar. If you visit between December and April, you can often see Humpback whales breaching right from your balcony. Bring a pair of high-quality binoculars; the ones provided in the rooms are okay, but if you're a serious observer, bring your own.
6. Don't skip the San José Art Walk. The resort is only about 15 minutes from San José del Cabo (the quieter, more artistic sister to Cabo San Lucas). On Thursday evenings, the gallery district opens up, and it’s a great way to see the "real" Mexico outside the resort gates.
One&Only Palmilla remains the benchmark for a reason. It’s the combination of the specific geography—the swimmable beach—and a staff-to-guest ratio that ensures you never have to lift a finger. It’s expensive, yes. But in a world of cookie-cutter luxury, it actually offers a sense of place. You know you are in Mexico. You know you are in Baja. And that’s why people keep coming back decade after decade.