So, you want a pool. You've looked at the $60,000 price tag of a gunite inground build and immediately closed your browser tab. I get it. That’s where on the ground pools—or what the industry technically calls "above-ground" or "semi-inground" pools—come into the picture. But here is the thing: most homeowners treat these like a temporary Walmart purchase or a massive permanent construction project, and they usually miss the sweet spot in between.
It’s honestly a bit of a wild west out there.
There is a huge difference between a $500 inflatable ring from a big-box store and a $12,000 resin-framed masterpiece that can actually survive a literal blizzard. People get these confused all the time. If you’re looking at on the ground pools as a serious addition to your backyard, you need to understand that you aren't just buying a container of water. You are buying a hydraulic system that lives outside and fights nature 24/7.
The Steel vs. Resin Debate is Basically a Cold War
When you start shopping, you’ll hear salespeople throw around terms like "all-steel," "hybrid," and "resin." It sounds like they’re talking about spaceships. In reality, it’s all about rust. Steel is strong. It’s cheap. It also hates water, which is a bit of a problem for a pool.
If you live in a place with high humidity or you're planning on using a salt-water chlorine generator, steel is a risky bet. Salt will eat through a steel wall faster than you’d think. Resin components, which are basically high-grade plastics, won't corrode. But they cost more. A lot more. A hybrid pool usually uses steel for the walls—because steel has the tensile strength to hold back 20,000 gallons of water—and resin for the top rails and uprights. This is often where the smart money is. You get the strength where you need it and the corrosion resistance where the water actually splashes.
Why Your "Level" Ground Isn't Actually Level
Here is a fact that ruins weekends: your yard is crooked.
You might look at your grass and think, "Yeah, that’s flat enough." It isn't. If an on the ground pool is off by even two inches from one side to the other, the water pressure shifts. This puts uneven stress on the frame. Eventually, the wall buckles. If you’re lucky, it just leaks. If you’re unlucky, the wall "zips" open and sends a tidal wave into your neighbor's basement.
Professional installers like those at Doughboy or Radiant Pools will tell you that the prep work is 80% of the job. You have to scrape away the sod. You have to bring in masonry sand. You have to level the patio blocks under every single vertical support. If you're doing this yourself, rent a transit level. Don't trust a 4-foot carpenter's level and a string. Just don't.
The Semi-Inground Loophole
This is the "secret menu" of the pool world. Some on the ground pools are engineered to be buried. Not all of them. If you take a standard cheap pool and bury it three feet deep, the weight of the dirt will collapse the walls the moment you drain the water.
However, brands like Radiant Pools use "R-10" insulated wall panels—basically a sandwich of aluminum and aerospace-grade foam. These are strong enough to handle the "backfill" pressure. Why would you do this?
- It looks better.
- It handles sloped yards.
- It's easier to build a deck around.
- It keeps the water warmer.
The insulation in those walls actually acts like a Thermos. In northern climates, this can extend your swimming season by weeks because the ground isn't sucking the heat out of the water through the thin vinyl.
Let’s Talk About the "Hidden" Costs
The pool kit might be $4,000. That’s the "sticker price." But you aren't swimming yet.
Electricity is a big one. A standard 1.5-horsepower pump can add $50 to $100 a month to your power bill if you run it 24/7. Modern variable-speed pumps are a godsend here, but they cost more upfront. Then there's the water. Filling a 24-foot round pool takes about 13,000 to 15,000 gallons. If you're on a city meter, that first fill-up is going to be a shocker. If you're on a well, you might run it dry or burn out your pump trying to fill it over three days. Many people end up hiring a water truck. Depending on where you live, that’s another $500 to $1,000.
And the fence. Oh, the fence.
Most local building codes require a 48-inch barrier. If your on the ground pool has 52-inch walls, the pool itself is the fence, but you still need a locking ladder that swings up. If you build a deck, you now need a code-compliant railing and a self-closing gate. Do not skip the permit. If you ever try to sell your house and the pool isn't permitted, it’s a nightmare.
Maintenance is Harder Than You Think
People think small pools are easier. They’re actually harder.
Small volumes of water react faster to chemicals. One heavy rainstorm or a birthday party with six kids can tank your pH levels and turn the water green by Tuesday. You have to be a bit of a backyard scientist. You need a good test kit—not the cheap strips, but a Taylor K-2006 liquid drop kit.
The filter choice matters too. Sand filters are the "set it and forget it" option, but they don't filter out the tiny stuff as well as DE (Diatomaceous Earth) or Cartridge filters do. If you have a lot of fine dust or pollen in your area, sand might leave your water looking a little "dull" even when the chemistry is perfect.
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The Real Lifespan
Let's be real. An on the ground pool is not a 50-year investment.
The liner is the most vulnerable part. Expect to replace it every 5 to 9 years. Sharp toys, dogs with long claws, or just UV degradation will eventually win. The frame itself, if it's a high-quality resin or aluminum, can last 20 years. If it’s a cheap steel model from a big box store? You’re lucky to get 5 years before the bottom track starts to flake away into rust.
Real-World Case Study: The Sloped Backyard
I once saw a homeowner in Pennsylvania try to install a 21-foot round pool on a 12-inch slope. Instead of digging out the "high" side to make the ground level, they tried to build up the "low" side with extra sand.
That is a recipe for disaster.
Sand shifts. Within three months, the pool started leaning. The top rail on the low side was submerged while the high side had six inches of liner showing. They had to drain the whole thing, tear it down, and start over. Always dig down to the lowest point. Never build up.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Pool Owner
If you are ready to pull the trigger, don't just buy the first thing you see on sale. Follow this path:
- Check your setbacks. Call your local zoning office. Ask how many feet the pool must be from your property line and your septic tank. This often dictates the size more than your budget does.
- Measure the slope. Use a laser level or a long straight board with a level on top to see exactly how many inches of "drop" your yard has over 24 feet.
- Choose your material based on your sanitizer. If you want a salt-water system, you must buy a 100% resin-frame pool. Period.
- Inquire about "Beaded" vs. "Overlap" liners. Beaded liners snap into a track and are much easier to replace later without taking the whole pool apart. They cost more, but your future self will thank you.
- Look for a "Main Drain." Most on the ground pools only draw water from the surface skimmer. Adding a main drain at the bottom (or a "deep end" dish) improves circulation significantly and makes vacuuming way easier.
Buying one of these isn't just about the summer fun. It's about understanding the physics of a massive amount of water sitting in your yard. Get the foundation right, choose the right materials for your climate, and you won't be the person on Facebook Marketplace next year trying to give away a "slightly rusted" pool for free just to get it out of your sight.