You see them everywhere. Usually, they're sitting in a farm field with grass tall enough to hide the tires, or they’re shining under the LED lights of a high-end auction block in Scottsdale. There is no middle ground anymore. Old model Chevrolet trucks have transitioned from being simple workhorses into cultural icons that people are willing to pay six figures for. It’s wild. If you told a construction worker in 1974 that his dented C10 would one day cost more than a new Silverado, he’d probably laugh in your face and offer you a cigarette. But here we are.
The appeal isn't just nostalgia. It’s the feel of the steel. It's the fact that you can actually see the engine when you pop the hood, unlike modern trucks that look like a giant plastic suitcase under there.
The "Action Line" Era and the Death of the Work-Only Truck
Before 1967, trucks were mostly miserable to drive. They were bouncy, loud, and built with the comfort of a wooden park bench. Then Chevy dropped the "Action Line" (1967–1972). This changed everything. They started thinking about people who wanted to drive a truck to the grocery store, not just the lumber yard.
The 1967 C10 is basically the holy grail for a lot of collectors. Why? Look at the rear window. The small-window '67 has this specific, sleek profile that just looks right. By 1968, they added side marker lights because of federal mandates, which some purists hate, but honestly, it’s a small price to pay for that iconic egg-crate grille.
One thing people get wrong is the suspension. Everyone thinks old trucks have leaf springs. Well, Chevy was weird. From '67 to '72, most of their half-ton trucks actually used coil springs in the back. This made them ride significantly smoother than the Fords of the same era. If you find one with leaf springs (the "Longhorn" models or heavy-duty 3/4 tons), it’s built for hauling, but your spine will feel every pebble on the interstate.
The 1972 model was the peak of this generation. It was the last year before everything got "square." It had the disc brakes. It had the better interior options. It’s the one everyone wants, which is why the prices are absolutely through the roof right now. You’re looking at $40,000 for a clean driver, easily.
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The Square Body Obsession (1973–1987)
Then came the "Rounded Line." We call them Square Bodies now. Ironically, GM spent a ton of time in the wind tunnel trying to make them aerodynamic—hence the curved glass and tucked-in wipers—but they ended up looking like a brick anyway. A beautiful, iconic brick.
This era lasted forever. 14 years. Because of that, there are millions of them. But finding one that isn't rusted into a pile of orange dust is the real challenge. The 1973 and 1974 models are unique because they have that recessed grille and the "Grease" era dash. By 1975, they shifted things around, and by the 1980s, the interiors started getting more "plasticky."
- The 1987 Special: This is the year to own. It was the last year of the Square Body style for the R/V series (they changed the naming from C/K briefly), and it was the first year of TBI (Throttle Body Injection).
- Why TBI matters: It starts when it’s cold. No pumping the gas pedal eight times and praying to the gods of internal combustion. It’s the bridge between the old-school carburetors and modern reliability.
- The 4x4 Factor: The K10 models with the NP205 transfer case are tanks. You can't kill them. You might break an axle shaft if you're being a dummy in the mud, but that gear-driven transfer case will outlive us all.
What Most People Get Wrong About "Numbers Matching"
In the world of old model Chevrolet trucks, people obsess over "numbers matching." On a 1969 Camaro? Sure, that matters for a $150,000 investment. On a 1978 Chevy Big 10? It’s kinda irrelevant. These were utility vehicles. Engines were swapped in driveways. Transmissions were blown out hauling hay and replaced by the local mechanic.
If you’re buying one, don’t pay a massive premium just because the engine block date code matches the frame. Focus on the metal. These trucks dissolve. Look at the "cab corners" and the "rocker panels." If you see bubbling paint there, walk away. Or, at least, bring a welder and a lot of patience.
The "Long Bed vs. Short Bed" debate is another thing. Everyone wants a short bed. They look sportier. They’re easier to park. But back in the day, farmers bought long beds. Now, people are literally cutting the frames of long bed trucks in half, removing a section of steel, and welding them back together to make "fake" short beds. It’s a huge business. If you’re buying a short bed, check the frame welds. You don't want a truck that’s going to snap in half when you hit a pothole.
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The LS Swap: Sacrilege or Genius?
Purists will tell you that a Chevy truck needs a Small Block 350. It’s a great engine. It sounds like America. But let’s be real: it leaks oil, it gets 8 miles per gallon, and it hates ethanol gas.
The modern trend is the LS swap. Taking a 5.3L or 6.0L engine from a wrecked 2005 Silverado and shoving it into a 1972 C10. It’s the best thing you can do for a truck you actually want to drive. You get 300+ horsepower, you get 18 mpg, and you can plug a scanner into it to find out why it’s running weird.
Companies like Holley and Dirty Dingo have made this so easy that you can basically bolt the new engine in over a weekend. If you’re looking at old model Chevrolet trucks for sale and you see "LS Swapped," it usually means the owner wanted to actually use the vehicle, not just look at it in a garage.
The Forgotten Stepside
We have to talk about the fenders. The "Fleetside" is the smooth-sided truck. The "Stepside" has those flared rear fenders and the little wooden planks in the bed. Stepsides are polarizing. They feel more "vintage," but they are a nightmare to keep clean. The wood in the bed rots. The bolts rust. But man, a 1955-1959 "Task Force" Chevy with a wood bed? That’s art. It’s not a truck; it’s a sculpture.
The Task Force trucks (1955–1959) were the first to have the wraparound windshield. They were also the first to offer a V8—the legendary 265 cubic inch Small Block. Before that, you were stuck with the "Stovebolt" Inline-6. The 6-cylinder is cool, but it has the acceleration of a glacier. If you want to keep up with traffic on a modern highway, you need the V8 or a very brave heart.
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Real World Costs of Ownership
Buying the truck is the cheap part. Keeping it is the expensive part. Even if you find a "rust-free" truck from Arizona, the rubber is probably dry-rotted.
- Wiring: Old GM wiring is terrifying. The insulation gets brittle. One day your headlights work; the next day your dashboard is smoking. Budget for a modern wiring harness from a brand like American Autowire. It's about $600-$900 plus a lot of swearing during installation.
- Steering: These trucks have "vague" steering. It’s more of a suggestion than a command. You turn the wheel, and the truck thinks about it for a second before changing direction. Upgrading to a quick-ratio steering box is the single best "quality of life" improvement you can make.
- Fuel: If you’re running a carbureted 454 big block, you are essentially pouring money directly onto the pavement. Be prepared for that.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Owner
If you’re serious about getting into the world of old model Chevrolet trucks, don’t just jump on the first shiny thing you see on Facebook Marketplace.
First, decide on your "utility vs. show" ratio. If you want to haul mulch and go to the dump, buy an 88-98 OBS (Old Body Style). They’re cheaper, have air conditioning that actually works, and they still have that classic look. If you want an investment that will appreciate while you sleep, go for a 1967-1972 K5 Blazer. The prices on those are vertical right now.
Second, check the VIN. On Square Bodies, the VIN is on the dash, but it’s also on a sticker inside the glovebox called the SPID (Service Parts Identification) label. If the options on that sticker (like paint code or engine) don't match the truck, someone has been swapping parts. This isn't always a dealbreaker, but it’s a great bargaining chip.
Third, join the forums. The "67-72chevytrucks.com" forum is basically the Library of Alexandria for these vehicles. Every bolt, every torque spec, and every weird electrical gremlin has been discussed there by guys who have been turning wrenches since Nixon was in office.
Finally, get an inspection. Pay a local mechanic $150 to put it on a lift. You’re looking for "fishplates" on the frame (welded patches) and signs of "Bondo" (body filler). Take a magnet with you. If the magnet doesn't stick to the bottom of the doors or the cab corners, that’s not metal. That’s plastic filler. Walk away. There are always more trucks.
Old Chevys are a rabbit hole. Once you hear that specific "clack" of the heavy door shutting, you’re hooked. Just make sure you buy a good set of SAE wrenches, because your metric tools won't help you much here.