They’re gray. They’re chunky. They usually look like they’ve spent a significant amount of time mowing a lawn in the suburbs of Ohio. For decades, the phrase old man New Balance was a bit of a playground insult, a shorthand for someone who had officially given up on "cool" in exchange for podiatric stability. But things changed. Honestly, they changed fast.
Walk through Lower Manhattan or London’s Soho today and you’ll see those same "geriatric" sneakers on the feet of 19-year-old models and high-fashion enthusiasts. It’s a weird, beautiful paradox. The shoe that was designed for maximum support and stability for the aging foot has become the ultimate symbol of ironic—and then unironic—cool.
Why the old man New Balance became a global icon
It wasn't a marketing accident. New Balance didn't sit in a boardroom and decide to target "cool kids" by acting old. They just kept making the same high-quality, functional shoes they’ve been making since 1906. That authenticity is what eventually won people over. While brands like Nike and Adidas were constantly chasing the next futuristic silhouette, New Balance stayed stubbornly stuck in its ways.
The 990 series is the poster child for this. When the 990v1 launched in 1982, it was the first athletic shoe to hit a $100 price tag. That was a massive deal back then. It was marketed as the "perfect" running shoe. But because it was expensive and prioritized comfort over flashy aesthetics, it naturally gravitated toward an older demographic with disposable income and bad knees.
Then came the 992 and the 993. These are the "chunkier" models. Steve Jobs famously wore them. He wasn't trying to be a fashion icon; he just wanted something that worked while he paced around a stage. That’s the core of the old man New Balance appeal: utility.
The science of the "Dad Shoe" comfort
There is actual engineering behind why your grandpa—and now your favorite TikTok influencer—loves these things. New Balance uses a tech called ENCAP in many of these classic models. Basically, it’s a core of soft EVA cushioning in the midsole with a tough polyurethane rim for more support.
It prevents your foot from rolling inward, which is a common issue as we age or if we spend all day standing on concrete. For someone dealing with plantar fasciitis or just general fatigue, the old man New Balance isn't a fashion choice; it’s a medical necessity. The shoes often come in multiple widths—2E, 4E, even 6E. Most "cool" sneakers are narrow and restrictive. New Balance lets your toes breathe.
The 624: The ultimate "Mow the Lawn" sneaker
If we’re being honest, when people search for old man New Balance, they’re often thinking of the 624. Or maybe the 608. These are the white, all-leather trainers with the navy blue "N" on the side. They are ubiquitous. They are affordable. They are indestructible.
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You’ve seen them at every barbecue. You’ve seen them at the hardware store at 7:00 AM on a Saturday. The 624 is the quintessential "dad shoe." It features an Abzorb crash pad and a Phantom Liner to reduce irritation. It’s a tank for your feet.
Interestingly, these entry-level models are what paved the way for the "Normcore" movement of the mid-2010s. Fashionistas started wearing the 624s as a way to reject the hyper-branded, hyper-expensive world of sneaker collecting. It was a joke that turned into a trend that turned into a staple.
It’s not just about the gray
While the "Castle Rock" gray is the signature colorway, the brand has branched out. But only kinda. They stay within a very specific palette: navy, forest green, burgundy, and tan. These are "adult" colors. They don't scream for attention.
The 990v6 is the latest iteration. It’s a bit sleeker than the v5, but it still maintains that chunky, dependable vibe. It’s amazing how a shoe can be so ugly it becomes beautiful. That’s the "ugly-cool" aesthetic in a nutshell.
The crossover: From nursing homes to runways
The transition of old man New Balance from a punchline to a powerhouse was helped by some heavy-hitting collaborations. Teddy Santis, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore, was appointed as the Creative Director for New Balance Made in USA. He took those old-school silhouettes and gave them just a tiny bit of "preppy" flair.
Think cream midsoles that look slightly aged. Think high-quality pigskin suede.
Suddenly, the shoes your uncle wears to the pharmacy were being sold for $250 and selling out in seconds. But here’s the thing: New Balance didn’t change the construction. The "Made in USA" and "Made in UK" lines still use premium materials and hand-stitched elements. A 991 made in Flimby, UK, is a piece of craftsmanship.
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Does it actually help your gait?
A lot of podiatrists recommend these shoes. Dr. Miguel Cunha and other foot specialists often point to the New Balance 990 or 840 for patients who need stability.
- They have a firm heel counter. This keeps your heel from sliding around.
- They have a wide toe box. No cramped toes here.
- The "last" (the shape of the shoe) is often straighter, which helps people with flat feet.
If you’re someone who actually is an "old man"—or just someone who cares about their joints—the old man New Balance is probably the best investment you can make for your daily mobility.
How to style them without looking like you’ve given up
There is a fine line. If you wear them with pleated khakis and a tucked-in polo shirt, you are, in fact, leaning fully into the "dad" look. Which is fine! It’s a classic.
But if you want to modernize the old man New Balance, you’ve gotta play with proportions. Try a wider-leg trouser that hits right at the top of the shoe. Or go for a more athletic look with high-quality sweatpants and a heavy fleece. The key is to make it look intentional.
The "gray" sneaker is essentially a neutral. It goes with literally everything. Black jeans? Yes. Navy chinos? Obviously. A suit? People are doing it, though it’s a bold move.
Common misconceptions about the brand
People think New Balance is just one type of shoe. It’s not. They have a massive range. The 574 is the "entry-level" lifestyle shoe. The 1080 is a high-tech foam runner for serious athletes. The 2002R is a "re-issue" of an old performance runner that has become a streetwear darling.
But the "old man" energy usually lives in the 900 series and the leather cross-trainers. That’s the heart of the brand. It’s the stuff that never goes out of style because it was never "in" style to begin with.
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The future of the "Grandpa" aesthetic
Is this a fad? Probably not. We’ve entered an era of "comfort-first" fashion. After years of skinny jeans and restrictive footwear, people realized that their feet actually matter.
The old man New Balance is the ultimate expression of that realization. As the population ages, and as younger generations continue to prioritize longevity and wellness, the demand for shoes that don't hurt will only grow. New Balance is uniquely positioned here. They have the heritage. They have the "uncool" factor that makes them cool.
They also have a very loyal customer base. If you buy a pair of 990s today, you’ll probably buy another pair in three years. And another three years after that. That’s brand loyalty you can’t buy with a Super Bowl ad.
Why the 993 is secretly the best one
If you’re looking for the sweet spot, look at the 993. It’s slightly wider and "chunkier" than the 990v5 or v6. It feels like walking on a very supportive cloud. It has that specific 2000s-era tech look that is very popular right now.
It also has "USA" embroidered on the back. There’s something about that domestic manufacturing that appeals to people. It feels more substantial. More real.
Actionable Next Steps for Choosing Your "Old Man" New Balances
If you're ready to embrace the comfort and the vibe, start by identifying your foot type. Go to a dedicated running store or a New Balance flagship and get your feet measured on a Brannock device. Don't just guess your size; New Balance fits differently depending on the "last" they use for each model.
- For maximum stability: Look for the 990v6 or the 840v5. These are designed to keep your foot neutral and supported.
- For the "classic dad" budget: Grab the 624 or 608. They are affordable workhorses that last for years.
- For the fashion-forward look: Hunt for the 2002R or the 1906R. They have that "techy" 2000s runner aesthetic.
- For the ultimate quality: Stick to the "Made in USA" or "Made in UK" lines. The price is higher, but the materials (usually pigskin suede and mesh) are significantly better than the standard models.
Check the width options. This is the biggest mistake people make. If you have a wide foot, don't try to squeeze into a standard "D" width. Order the "2E" or "4E." Your bunions will thank you later. Once you have them, don't be afraid to get them a little dirty. These shoes aren't meant to be kept in a box. They’re meant to be worn while you’re living your life—whether that's hiking a trail or just walking to the coffee shop.