You’re digging through a dusty shoebox in the attic. Maybe you found a heavy, dark copper disc at a flea market. It’s got that distinctive profile—a stern-looking man with a laurel wreath or perhaps a more modern, balding gentleman. You see the words Georgivs V or Georgivs VI. Suddenly, the question hits: are these old coins King George actually worth money, or are they just neat-looking paperweights?
Honestly? Most are worth about their weight in scrap. But a few? They’re life-changing.
Collecting British or Commonwealth currency isn't just about hoarding metal. It's about history you can hold. We are talking about a lineage that spans from the madness of George III to the wartime resilience of George VI. If you’ve got a coin with a "George" on it, you’re holding a piece of an empire that once covered a quarter of the globe. But let’s get real—collectors don't buy "history." They buy rarity. They buy condition. They buy that one specific year where the mint accidentally used the wrong die.
The Confusion Over Which George is Which
People get mixed up. It’s easy to do. There were four King Georges in the era most collectors care about. George III (the one who lost America), George IV (the flamboyant one), George V (the WWI King), and George VI (the father of Queen Elizabeth II).
If your coin looks incredibly old, thick, and almost like a puck, it’s probably George III. These "Cartwheel" pennies from 1797 are iconic. They were so heavy because the government wanted the copper value to match the face value to stop counterfeiters. It didn't really work, but it left us with some of the coolest old coins King George III ever produced.
Moving into the 20th century, George V and VI dominate the market. You’ll find these in jars across the UK, Australia, Canada, and India. George V coins (1910–1936) usually feature him with a pretty majestic beard. George VI (1936–1952) is clean-shaven. Knowing which "George" you have is the absolute first step in figuring out if you can retire early or if you just have enough for a cup of coffee.
The Holy Grail: The 1933 George V Penny
Let’s talk about the white whale. The 1933 Penny.
In 1933, the Royal Mint had a massive surplus of pennies. They didn't need more. So, they just... didn't make any for general circulation. However, a tiny handful were struck for ceremonial purposes—think foundation stones of buildings.
Experts like those at Sotheby's or Spink & Son generally agree that only about seven to ten of these exist in private hands. One sold a few years ago for over £72,000. If you find a 1933 George V penny in a bag of old coins, you haven't just found a coin. You've won the lottery.
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But watch out. People fake these constantly. They take a 1930 or 1935 penny and try to alter the digit. If the "3" looks a bit wonky under a magnifying glass, it’s a dud. Real ones are documented. Most of the time, when someone thinks they found one, they’re looking at a 1933 coin from a different country, like Ireland or a colony, which isn't the same thing at all.
Silver Content: When the Metal is the Value
Before 1920, British silver coins (shillings, florins, half-crowns) were actually 92.5% silver. This is known as Sterling silver. If you have a George V coin from 1911 to 1919, it’s inherently valuable just for the silver melt price.
Then things changed.
Post-WWI debt was crushing. In 1920, the silver content was dropped to 50%. Then, in 1947, under George VI, silver was removed entirely and replaced with cupro-nickel (the same stuff in modern quarters).
- Pre-1920: High silver value ($$$)
- 1920–1946: Moderate silver value ($$)
- 1947-present: No silver value (unless rare)
I’ve seen people sell "rare" 1948 George VI half-crowns on eBay for fifty bucks. Don't be that person. They made millions of them. Unless it's in "MS65" condition—meaning it looks like it was minted five minutes ago—it’s worth maybe a dollar to a casual collector.
Australian and Canadian George Varieties
The sun never set on the British Empire, and neither did the coinage. Some of the most sought-after old coins King George editions aren't even from Britain.
Take the Australian 1930 Penny. It’s the stuff of legends Down Under. Similar to the UK 1933 penny, it wasn't supposed to be issued. A few thousand made it out. Finding a genuine 1930 Australian penny in "Fine" condition can net you $10,000 or more.
Canada has its own stars. The 1936 "dot" penny is legendary. After George V died, there was a delay in getting the new King’s (Edward VIII) portraits ready. Then Edward abdicated. Total chaos at the mint. To keep production going, Canada used the old George V dies but added a tiny dot below the date to signify they were actually made in 1937. Only three are known to exist.
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Grading: Why Your "Shiny" Coin Might Be Worthless
This is the hardest pill for new collectors to swallow.
"But it's so shiny!"
If you cleaned your coin with lemon juice or baking soda to make it look new, you just destroyed 90% of its value. Seriously. Don't touch them. Collectors crave "patina"—that natural, dark oxidation that happens over decades. A cleaned coin is considered "damaged" in the professional numismatic world.
Grading scales like the Sheldon Scale (1 to 70) determine the price. A George VI sixpence from 1952 might be worth 50 cents in "Circulated" condition. But if it’s a "Proof" or "Uncirculated" specimen that somehow stayed in a felt box for 70 years, it could fetch hundreds.
Common Misconceptions About George VI "Acorn" Pennies
There is a weird rumor that circulates every few years about the George VI pennies featuring a thrift plant or "acorns." People think they’re rare because they were the "last" of the old style.
They aren't.
From 1937 to 1952, the Royal Mint pumped out billions of these. You can buy a handful of them for five dollars at any coin show. The only exception is the 1950 and 1951 pennies. Because the UK was transitioning to the Queen Elizabeth II era and had a surplus, they minted very few pennies in those final years of George VI’s reign. Those are actually worth keeping an eye out for.
What to Look for Right Now
If you’re staring at a pile of old coins King George, here is your quick-and-dirty checklist of what actually matters:
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- The 1933 UK Penny: (The Holy Grail, unlikely but check anyway).
- The 1930 Australian Penny: Look for the King George V profile.
- Wartime Nickels (Canada): George VI nickels from 1944-1945 were made of steel (tombac) because nickel was needed for the war effort. They have a distinct brassy color and a "V" for victory.
- The 1923 Australian Halfpenny: Extremely low mintage.
- Any George III "Cartwheel": Even in bad shape, these usually have a base value of $20-$50 just because they are cool.
The Nuance of "Mint Marks"
Sometimes, the value isn't in the date or the King. It’s in a tiny letter.
During World War I, the Royal Mint in London was overwhelmed. They outsourced some penny production to the "Heaton Mint" in Birmingham and the "Kings Norton Metal Co."
Look at the date on a George V penny from 1912, 1918, or 1919. Is there a tiny "H" or "KN" next to the year? If so, you’ve found a scarcer variety. They aren't worth thousands, but they are worth significantly more than the standard London versions. It's these tiny details—the stuff you need a jeweler's loupe to see—that separate the pros from the amateurs.
How to Sell Without Getting Ripped Off
So you found something. What now?
First, get a catalog. Spenk’s Coins of England is the gold standard for UK coins. For world coins, the Krause Standard Catalog is the bible. Look up your coin and look at the "mintage" numbers. If the mintage is in the millions, it’s not rare.
Second, check "Sold" listings on eBay. Not "Asking" prices. People can ask $10,000 for a common 1940 penny, but that doesn't mean anyone is buying it. You want to see what people actually paid in the last 90 days.
Third, if you truly think you have a 1933 penny or a 1930 Australian penny, do not go to a "We Buy Gold" shop at the mall. They will offer you the metal value. Go to a reputable auction house or a member of the British Numismatic Trade Association (BNTA) or the Professional Numismatists Guild (PNG).
Practical Next Steps for Your Collection
Instead of letting those coins sit in a jar where they clink together and get scratched (lowering their grade!), take these steps:
- Buy PVC-free flips: Cheap plastic holders from the 90s contain PVC, which leaks a green slime onto coins and ruins them. Buy "Mylar" or PVC-free flips.
- Pick a "Type": Most successful collectors don't just buy everything. They focus. Maybe you want every denomination from the year 1937 (the Coronation year). Or maybe you only want George V "Bearded" portraits.
- Invest in a 10x Loupe: You cannot see the "H" mint mark or the "dot" on a 1936 Canadian penny with the naked eye. A decent magnifying glass is your best friend.
- Join a forum: Sites like CoinCommunity or Numista are filled with people who have spent 40 years studying the curve of George’s ear. They are usually happy to help if you provide clear, high-resolution photos of both sides of the coin.
Collecting old coins King George is a rabbit hole. One day you're looking at a penny, and the next you're studying the geopolitical shifts of the 1920s to understand why silver purity dropped. It's a hobby that pays off in knowledge—and, if you're lucky, a bit of actual gold.