If you’ve ever walked down the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, you’ve probably felt that heavy, slightly damp sense of history that clings to the stone. It’s thick. You can't miss it. But most people just take a photo of St. Giles' Cathedral and keep moving toward the Castle. They miss the real stuff. Tucked away in the labyrinthine "closes" of the Old Town is the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh, or as many locals and seasoned travelers simply know it, Cheval Old Town Chambers. Honestly, if you’re looking for a cookie-cutter lobby with a generic breakfast buffet, this isn't your spot. It’s basically the architectural equivalent of a nested Russian doll—a mix of 15th-century foundations and sleek, glass-fronted modernism that somehow works without being tacky.
Edinburgh is a city built on layers. Literally. When you stay at the Old Chambers, you aren't just in a room; you’re occupying a space that has been inhabited for over 500 years. It’s located in Roxburgh’s Close and Advocates’ Close. These are narrow, steep alleyways that drop off the main spine of the Royal Mile. You’ve got to be okay with hills. If your knees aren't up for a workout, the Old Town is going to be a challenge, but the payoff at this specific property is a view that most people would pay a king's ransom for.
Why the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh Isn't Your Standard Hotel
Here’s the thing. Most "luxury" hotels in the city center feel a bit like they’re trying too hard to be Scottish. Tartan everywhere. Shortbread on every pillow. The Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh takes a different path. It’s an apartment-hotel hybrid. You get a kitchen. You get a living area. You get the freedom to buy a weirdly expensive bottle of whisky and some local cheese from I.J. Mellis around the corner and just... exist.
The design philosophy here is "honesty." They didn't try to hide the medieval stonework. In many of the apartments, you’ll see the original irregular stone walls, but they’ve paired them with minimalist, high-end furniture. It’s a bit jarring at first. Seeing a flat-screen TV mounted on a wall that was likely standing during the Scottish Reformation is a trip. But it highlights the reality of Edinburgh: it’s a living city, not a museum.
One of the most striking parts of the property is the "Penthouse." Now, usually, I think penthouses are overpriced hype. But this one? It sits right at the top of the close, offering a 360-degree view that hits you like a physical weight. You see the Princes Street Gardens, the Scott Monument, and the Firth of Forth in the distance. It makes you feel like the ruler of the city, which is probably why it's booked out months in advance during the Fringe Festival.
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Navigating the Closes: The Logistics of Being Central
Location is everything. But being "central" in Edinburgh means being in the middle of a chaotic, tourist-heavy, noisy, and beautiful mess. The Old Chambers is right there. You step out of the quiet, modern lobby and you are immediately bombarded by bagpipes.
It’s loud.
Let's be real—if you want total silence, go stay in the West End or out by the Shore in Leith. If you stay at the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh, you are signing up for the ambient hum of one of the world’s most famous streets. However, because the apartments are tucked down into the closes, the stone walls act as a natural sound barrier. It’s surprisingly peaceful once you shut the heavy door.
The Apartment Breakdown
You aren't getting a "double room" here. You're getting a studio, a one-bedroom, or a multi-level townhouse.
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- The Studios: Great for solo travelers or couples who are just using it as a base. They feel like a high-end London flat, just with better views.
- The Townhouses: This is where it gets weird and cool. These are multi-story units built into the side of the slope. You might enter on the third floor and go down to the bedroom. It’s confusing. It’s very Edinburgh.
- The Integrated Technology: They use a lot of smart-room tech. Honestly, sometimes it’s a bit much—trying to figure out how to dim the lights shouldn't require a manual—but once you get it, it’s sleek.
The History You’re Sleeping In
The site of the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh isn't just a random plot of land. Advocates' Close is named after Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, who was the Lord Advocate of Scotland in the late 1600s. People have been litigating, drinking, and living in this exact spot for centuries. When the developers (Chris Stewart Group) took over the site, it was a crumbling mess of historic buildings and 1930s extensions.
They did something brave. They kept the 15th-century "ribs" of the building but inserted a modern core. This is why you’ll see some walls that are two feet thick. The thermal mass of these buildings is incredible; they stay cool in the (rare) Scottish heat and hold onto warmth during the biting wind of a January "haar" (that's the sea mist that rolls in from the coast and makes everything look like a noir film).
It's also worth mentioning that this isn't a traditional hotel with a 24-hour restaurant. They have a lobby area and a gym, and they’ve partnered with local spots for breakfast, but you’re largely independent. For some, that’s a dealbreaker. For others, it’s the only way to travel. You aren't trapped in a tourist bubble. You have to go out and find your coffee. You have to interact with the city.
Is It Worth the Price Tag?
Let's talk money. Edinburgh isn't cheap. During August, prices for the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh skyrocket. We’re talking eye-watering amounts. Is it worth it?
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If you value space and authenticity, yes. If you are comparing it to a Marriott or a Hilton, you’re looking at it wrong. You’re paying for the ability to walk 30 seconds and be at the High Kirk of St. Giles. You’re paying for a kitchen where you can cook actual meals. Most importantly, you’re paying for the architecture. There are very few places in Europe where you can stay in a building this old that has been renovated to this level of luxury without losing its soul.
There is a slight downside: the maze factor. Because the hotel is spread across several historic buildings connected by new walkways, finding your room the first time can feel like a quest from a fantasy novel. "Take the lift to level three, walk across the glass bridge, go down the stone stairs, and it's the third door on the left." You will get lost. Just accept it.
Practical Insights for Your Stay
When you book the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh, don't just take the first room assigned. If you can, request a room facing North. Those are the ones with the views over the New Town. If you face South, you’re looking at the Royal Mile, which is great for people-watching but less dramatic than the skyline of the 18th-century "New" city.
- Groceries: Don't bother with the tiny tourist shops on the Mile. Walk ten minutes down to the Tesco Express on Nicolon Street or the Sainsbury’s on Rose Street for actual prices.
- Luggage: If you're arriving by train at Waverley Station, it’s a five-minute walk. But it’s uphill. With cobblestones. Do yourself a favor and take a taxi if you have heavy bags, or you’ll be sweating through your shirt before you even check in.
- Dining: Since you have a kitchen, use it for breakfast, but head to the nearby Devil's Advocate for dinner. It’s right in the same close and has one of the best whisky selections in the city.
The Actionable Bottom Line
If you want to experience the "Old Town" without feeling like you're in a tacky theme park, the Old Chambers Hotel Edinburgh is arguably the best choice in the city. It respects the history of the closes while providing the modern comforts that stop "historic" from feeling "dilapidated."
To get the most out of your stay, book directly through their site to often snag better flexibility on check-out times, which you’ll want because the beds are famously difficult to leave. Plan your visit for the shoulder seasons—late April or October. The light in Edinburgh during these months is hauntingly beautiful, the crowds are thinner, and the rates at the Old Chambers become much more justifiable. Pack comfortable shoes with good grip; those medieval stones get slippery when it rains, and in Edinburgh, it almost always rains. Forget the tour buses. Just walk out the front door, turn left, and let the city's geography dictate your day. This is the only way to truly see Edinburgh, and this hotel puts you exactly where you need to be to do it right.