It happened again. Just when everyone thinks the fashion world has finally "grown up" or pivoted entirely toward digital minimalism, a designer sends a row of nude male models on runway stretches in Paris or London, and the internet loses its mind. You've seen the headlines. You've probably seen the pixelated photos. But honestly, most people get the "why" totally wrong. They think it's just about being perverted or lazy. It isn't.
Fashion is a business of attention.
In an era where we scroll past a thousand images a day, a well-tailored suit is invisible. A naked body? That stops the thumb. It’s a primal glitch in the system. But if you look at the history of these shows—from Rick Owens to Vivienne Westwood—there’s actually a pretty calculated strategy behind the skin. It’s about the vulnerability of the garment, or lack thereof.
The Rick Owens "Sphinx" Moment and the Shift in Perception
We have to talk about 2015. That was the year Rick Owens basically broke the fashion press by featuring nude male models on runway platforms during his Autumn/Winter show titled "Sphinx." He didn't just have shirtless guys; he had strategically placed "peepholes" in long, tunic-like garments.
It was jarring. People gasped.
But Owens wasn't doing it for a cheap thrill. He later explained that he was looking at the human body as a primal, sculptural form. He wanted to strip away the "status" of clothing. When you see a guy in a $5,000 coat, you think about his bank account. When you see him naked, you think about his humanity. Or his awkwardness. Or his bravery. It’s a total reset of the viewer's expectations.
Most critics at the time, like Tim Blanks, noted that while the nudity was the "clickbait," the actual collection was a masterclass in draping. That’s the trick. Use the shock to get the critics in the door, then make them look at the fabric.
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Why the Male Body specifically?
Historically, female nudity in art and fashion has been hyper-sexualized or, frankly, overdone. We’re used to it. It’s ubiquitous in advertising. Male nudity carries a different weight. It still feels "taboo" in a way that creates immediate press.
Designers like Vivienne Westwood used this for decades to poke at gender norms. By putting nude male models on runway walks, she was questioning why we are so comfortable with one type of exposure but terrified of another. It’s a political statement wrapped in a catwalk show.
The Commercial Logic of the "Shock" Show
Let's get real for a second. These shows cost hundreds of thousands of dollars to produce. No brand is spending that kind of cash just to be "weird."
There is a very specific sales funnel at play here:
- The Viral Event: The nudity creates a massive spike in social media mentions and "earned media" (free press).
- The Brand Identity: The brand is now cemented as "edgy," "fearless," or "avant-garde."
- The Commercial Reality: The clothes people actually buy—the t-shirts, the sneakers, the fragrances—benefit from that edgy halo.
You aren't buying the "peephole" tunic. You're buying a $400 hoodie from the guy who was "brave" enough to put a naked man on a stage. It’s associative branding at its most aggressive.
The Ethical Side: What About the Models?
Nudity in the workplace is a HR nightmare in any other industry. In fashion, it’s a "creative requirement." However, the industry has changed since the early 2000s.
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Organizations like the Model Alliance have pushed for stricter rules. Models now often have "nudity riders" in their contracts. They have to agree to it beforehand. They can't be surprised backstage with a sheer outfit they didn't sign up for.
Honestly, some models hate it. Others see it as a badge of honor. To walk a major show naked requires a level of confidence that most professional athletes don't even have. You are under high-intensity lights, being photographed by a hundred lenses, and judged by the most cynical people in the world.
Beyond the Gimmick: Art or Desperation?
Is it art? Sometimes.
When Bernhard Willhelm does it, it’s often a chaotic, joyful celebration of different body types. It feels like a protest against the "perfect" gym-sculpted male ideal. It’s messy. It’s human.
But sometimes, let's be honest, it's just boring.
When a struggling brand uses nude male models on runway paths just to get a mention in Vogue, it feels desperate. You can usually tell the difference by looking at the clothes. If the clothes are garbage and the models are naked, the designer is hiding. If the clothes are incredible and the models are naked, the designer is communicating.
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The "Body Positivity" Angle
We're seeing a shift lately. It's not just about the "Adonis" look anymore. Designers are starting to use nudity to showcase "real" bodies.
- Diversity of age: Older models showing the grace of aging.
- Diversity of size: Moving away from the "heroin chic" or "bodybuilder" extremes.
- Gender fluidity: Using nudity to blur the lines between what is considered "masculine" and "feminine."
This is where the trend actually gets interesting. It moves away from being a "stunt" and starts being a conversation about what it means to be a man in the 2020s.
How to View These Shows Without the Bias
If you’re watching a livestream and a naked guy walks out, don't just roll your eyes. Look at the context.
Is the music aggressive? Maybe it’s about vulnerability in a violent world.
Is the setting a sterile white box? It’s probably about the body as an architectural object.
Is everyone else in the front row wearing sunglasses and looking bored? That's just fashion.
The reality is that nude male models on runway shows will never truly go away. As long as there is a need to break through the digital noise, designers will use the most effective tool they have: the human form. It is the one thing we all have in common and the one thing we are still programmed to look at.
Actionable Insights for the Fashion-Curious
If you're interested in the intersection of performance art and clothing, here is how to actually follow this space without getting lost in the tabloid fluff:
- Follow the Credits: Look up the creative directors, not just the brand name. Someone like Jonathan Anderson (Loewe/JW Anderson) uses "revealing" elements very differently than a streetwear brand would. Understanding the designer's background in art or theater explains the "why" behind the nudity.
- Check the Show Notes: Most major houses release "Press Notes" during the show. They are usually pretentious, but they explicitly state the "theme." If they mention "The Garden of Earthly Delights" or "Primalism," you know the nudity is an intentional reference to art history.
- Watch the Movement: Nudity changes how a model walks. Without the structure of a jacket or the weight of denim, the gait changes. If you watch the footage, notice how the lack of clothes forces the viewer to focus on the human's natural rhythm.
- Ignore the Tabloids: If a headline says "SHOCKING NUDITY AT PARIS FASHION WEEK," it's probably the least interesting part of the story. Go to sites like Business of Fashion or Hypebeast to see how the industry actually reacted to the collection, not just the skin.
Fashion isn't just about what we wear. Often, it's about what we're afraid to show. The next time you see a headline about a "nude runway," remember that it’s rarely about the sex—it’s almost always about the power.