You’re standing at the base of North Mountain in Phoenix, looking up at that steep, paved incline of the North Mountain National Trail, and your first thought is probably: "Why am I doing this to my knees?" It’s a fair question. This isn't your typical wilderness trek. It’s gritty. It’s urban. It’s basically a giant outdoor StairMaster that happens to have a killer view of the Valley of the Sun.
Most people call it the "North Mountain Park" loop, but the National Trail designation is what brings in the history buffs. It's one of the oldest designated National Recreation Trails in the country, hitting the federal books back in 1972. That’s decades of hikers, trail runners, and the occasional confused tourist grinding their way up Trail 44.
The heat is real. If you haven't lived in Arizona, you don't get it. You think you do, but then 10 a.m. hits in May, and the basalt rocks start radiating heat like a pizza oven. That’s the thing about North Mountain—it’s accessible, right off 7th Street and Peoria, but it will absolutely wreck you if you treat it like a casual stroll.
What Actually Happens on Trail 44
The North Mountain National Trail is primarily composed of Trail 44. It’s roughly 1.6 miles if you just do the summit and back, but most people loop it with Trail 45 to get a solid 4-mile workout. The ascent is sharp. You’re gaining about 650 feet in a very short distance.
The first half is paved. That sounds easy? It’s not. Pavement reflects heat. It’s also harder on your joints than dirt. You’ll see local firefighters training here with weighted packs, which tells you everything you need to know about the incline. Honestly, the paving was a choice made for accessibility and erosion control years ago, but it gives the trail a unique, almost industrial vibe compared to the ruggedness of nearby Piestewa Peak.
The Radio Tower Reality
Once you reach the top, you aren't greeted by a pristine mountain peak. You get radio towers. Lots of them. It’s the telecommunications hub for a huge chunk of Phoenix. Some people hate it. They want "nature." But there’s something weirdly cool about standing next to these massive blinking structures while looking down at the sprawling grid of the city.
From the summit, you can see:
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- The skyscrapers of Downtown Phoenix to the south.
- The McDowell Mountains far to the east.
- The white stadium roof in Glendale to the west.
- Camelback Mountain’s distinct silhouette.
The view is the payoff. On a clear winter day, after a rare rainstorm has scrubbed the smog away, you can see all the way to the Four Peaks. It makes the burning in your calves feel a bit more worth it.
The Secret North Mountain Experience
If you stay on the pavement, you're missing the soul of the park. The North Mountain National Trail system includes the Maricopa Trail—a massive 315-mile loop that circles the entire county—and it intersects right here.
The best way to hike this is to start at the North Mountain Visitor Center. It’s a great little building, though it's often closed on odd days, so check the Maricopa County Parks website before you rely on it for water. From there, take Trail 44 up, but instead of just coming back down the same way, hook into Trail 45 (the Circumference Trail).
Trail 45 is where the desert actually feels like the desert. You get away from the road noise of 7th Street. You’ll see saguaros that are probably 150 years old. They’ve seen Phoenix grow from a tiny agricultural outpost to the fifth-largest city in the U.S. Keep an eye out for Gambel's quail darting through the creosote bushes. They look like little bowling pins with feathers.
Why Morning People Rule North Mountain
Don't be the person who starts this hike at noon in July. Seriously. The Phoenix Fire Department spends half their summer rescuing people off these mountains because they underestimated the "dry heat."
- Winter (Nov–March): Any time is fine. It’s glorious.
- Shoulder Season (April/October): Finish by 9:00 a.m.
- Summer (May–Sept): If you aren't off the trail by 7:30 a.m., you’re asking for trouble.
The parking lots at the 7th Street trailheads fill up fast. By 6:00 a.m. on a Saturday, it’s a parade of hydration packs and Lululemon. If you want peace, go on a Tuesday morning. The silence of the Sonoran Desert at dawn is something you won't forget—the sky turns this weird shade of bruised purple before the orange fire takes over.
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Complexity of the Terrain
The geology here is fascinatingly messy. You aren't walking on soft forest floor. It’s volcanic rock and metamorphic shists. It’s jagged. It’s loose. Even on the paved sections of the North Mountain National Trail, there’s often a layer of "granite marbles"—small round pebbles that act like ball bearings under your boots.
Most people wear running shoes. You can do that. But if you're hitting the unpaved back-side loops, you want something with a bit of "lug" on the sole. A twisted ankle on the back side of the mountain is a long, painful limp back to civilization.
Is it actually a "National" trail?
Yes. The National Recreation Trail (NRT) program is a big deal. It’s managed by the National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service. Being an NRT means this trail is recognized for its contribution to the health and heritage of the community. It’s not just a path; it’s a piece of federal infrastructure intended to keep the "Urban Park" dream alive.
Phoenix is one of the few major cities in the world with a mountain range running right through its center. The Phoenix Mountains Preserve, which North Mountain is a part of, was a hard-fought win by conservationists in the 60s and 70s. Developers wanted to put houses all the way to the top. Thankfully, they lost.
Practical Logistics for Your Visit
Parking is free. That’s a huge win. There are two main entry points:
- The North Mountain Visitor Center: Located at 12950 N. 7th St. This is the "official" start.
- The 7th Street South Trailhead: Just south of Thunderbird. This is where the locals go. It has more shade structures and better bathrooms.
Water. Bring more than you think. A standard 16oz plastic bottle is a joke. You need at least a liter, even for a short hike. The air is so dry that your sweat evaporates instantly. You don't feel wet; you just feel tired. That’s the first sign of dehydration.
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Dogs are allowed but keep them on a leash. Also, check the pavement temperature with your hand. If it’s too hot for your palm, it’s too hot for their paws. Every year, dogs end up in the vet with burned-off pads because owners didn't realize how hot the North Mountain National Trail pavement gets.
The Verdict: Why It’s Worth Your Time
Look, if you want a deep-woods experience with pine trees and babbling brooks, this isn't it. Go to Flagstaff for that.
But if you want to understand the heartbeat of Phoenix, you hike North Mountain. You hike it because it’s hard. You hike it because the view of the valley at sunset, with all the streetlights flickering on like a sea of amber, is hauntingly beautiful. It’s a place where the city and the wild collide.
You'll see elderly couples who have been hiking this ridge every morning for thirty years. You'll see elite athletes sprinting up the incline. You'll see families taking their kids on their first "mountain" adventure. It’s a communal experience.
Your Actionable Move-Forward Plan
- Check the Weather: If the "High" is over 100°F, do not hike after 8:00 a.m. Period.
- Download the Map: Use AllTrails or the Phoenix Parks map. Trail 44 and 45 are well-marked, but the "social trails" (the unofficial ones) can lead you into dead-end washes.
- Gear Up: Wear a hat. Use sunscreen. Bring a whistle. It sounds dramatic, but if you fall and can't move, a whistle carries much further than a scream in the wind.
- Start at 7th Street: Use the south trailhead for better facilities.
- Do the Loop: Don't just go up and down. Take the Circumference Trail to see the actual desert flora.
The North Mountain National Trail is a Phoenix staple for a reason. It’s accessible, punishing, and rewarding all at once. Respect the heat, watch your footing on the "marbles," and take the time to look away from your feet and out at the horizon. You're standing on some of the oldest rock in the Southwest, right in the middle of a concrete jungle.
Next Steps for Your Hike:
Ensure you have a minimum of two liters of water and sturdy footwear with aggressive tread. Head to the 7th Street south entrance early—aim for 6:30 a.m. to beat the crowds and the heat. Focus on the Trail 44 to Trail 45 loop for the best balance of a physical challenge and a scenic desert experience.