If you’ve spent any time looking at golf bucket lists, you know the usual suspects. St Andrews. Muirfield. Turnberry. But honestly? North Berwick Golf Club Scotland is the one that actually lives in your head forever. It’s weird. It’s quirky. It’s arguably the most fun you can have with a bag of sticks and a tiny white ball.
Most people think of links golf as a punishing slog through gorse and wind. North Berwick is different. It’s right there. The town literally hugs the course. You aren't tucked away in some gated resort behind a wall of corporate branding. You’re playing through history, literally stepping over stone walls that have stood for centuries. It’s the West Links, and it’s a masterclass in how golf used to be—and how it should be.
The West Links isn't just a patch of grass. It's the 13th oldest golf club in the world, founded in 1832. But the game was played here long before the paperwork was signed. When you stand on that first tee, you aren’t just facing a fairway; you’re facing the Firth of Forth. The sea air hits you instantly. It’s raw.
Why the West Links isn't your typical resort course
Forget everything you know about "modern" course design. Modern design is about symmetry and fairness. North Berwick doesn't care about fairness. It’s about the rub of the green. You’ll hit a perfect drive and find it tucked behind a stone wall. That’s just golf here.
The layout is a traditional "out and back" style. You head away from the clubhouse along the coast, then turn around at the 9th and head back toward the town. It sounds simple. It isn't. The wind coming off the Bass Rock—that massive white volcanic plug sitting out in the water—changes everything every five minutes.
One of the most famous features is the stone wall. You’ll find it on the 13th hole, aptly named "Pit." Your approach shot has to clear a waist-high stone wall to find the green. In any other country, a designer would be fired for putting a wall in the middle of a hole. Here? It’s legendary. It forces you to think. Do you chip over? Do you play it safe? Honestly, most people just hit the stones and laugh. Or cry. Usually both.
The Redan: The hole that changed golf architecture
If you’ve ever played a golf course designed by Pete Dye, Tom Doak, or Coore & Crenshaw, you’ve likely played a version of the 15th hole at North Berwick. It’s called the Redan.
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It is probably the most copied par 3 in the world.
The green slopes severely from right to left and front to back. You don’t aim at the flag. You aim at a specific spot on the right side and let gravity do the work. It’s a puzzle. Seeing your ball catch the slope and trickle toward the hole is one of those "aha" moments that makes you realize why people obsess over this game. Bernard Darwin, the famous golf writer, once said it was the finest par 3 in existence. He wasn't exaggerating.
Managing the expectations of a Scottish links
Let's talk about the weather. Scotland doesn't do "mild." You might start your round in a sweater, go through a waterproof jacket phase by the 4th, and be back in short sleeves by the turn. The locals call it "four seasons in one day." If you wait for a perfect day to play North Berwick Golf Club Scotland, you’ll never play.
You need to embrace the chaos.
The fairways are firm. Like, "concrete" firm during a dry summer. The ball doesn't just land; it scampers. You have to learn the "bump and run." If you try to fly every ball to the hole like you’re playing in Florida, you’re going to have a miserable time. You need to use the ground. Use the slopes. Aim thirty yards left and watch the ball kick right. It’s a creative process.
- The Bass Rock: Keep an eye on it. It’s home to the world’s largest colony of Northern gannets. It looks white because of, well, bird droppings.
- The Beach: On many holes, the beach is the "out of bounds" marker. On the 2nd hole, if you slice it, your ball is in the sand. Not a bunker—the literal North Sea beach.
- The Town: On the 18th, you’re hitting back toward the town. People are walking their dogs. Kids are eating ice cream. It’s a public right of way. You have to wait for a gap in the pedestrians before you tee off. It’s surreal and wonderful.
Practicality: Getting a tee time
Getting a game here isn't as impossible as St Andrews, but it’s getting harder. The secret is out. You used to be able to roll up and find a gap. Now, you need to book months in advance, especially for the summer season.
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They do allow visitors most days, but check the diary. It’s a private club with a very public heart. The green fees are steep—expect to pay over £200 in peak season—but compared to the £400+ you’ll pay at some "trophy" courses, it feels like a bargain for the quality of the experience.
What most people get wrong about North Berwick
A lot of tourists think they can just show up and "conquer" the course. You don't conquer North Berwick. You survive it.
The 16th hole, "Point Garry In," has a green that looks like a crumpled-up piece of paper. It’s a "Biarritz" style green with a massive swale in the middle. If the pin is on the back tier and you’re on the front, good luck. You basically need a wedge to putt through the valley.
It’s these eccentricities that make it "human." It isn't a sanitized, professional tour stop. It’s a playground.
Where to stay and eat
Don’t just drive in from Edinburgh and drive back. Stay in the town. North Berwick is one of the coolest seaside spots in East Lothian.
- The Marine North Berwick: It’s the grand old hotel overlooking the 16th. Recently renovated, it’s pricey but the views are unbeatable.
- The Ship Inn: Great for a post-round pint and some fish and chips. This is where the local caddies and golfers hang out.
- Steampunk Coffee: If you need a caffeine hit before your 8 AM tee time, this is the spot. It’s an old warehouse converted into a roastery. Best coffee in the area, hands down.
Actionable steps for your trip
Planning a trip to play North Berwick Golf Club Scotland requires a bit of strategy. Don't just wing it.
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Book your tee time 6-9 months out. The West Links is high demand. Use their official website directly; third-party booking sites often have massive markups.
Pack for the wind. A high-quality windbreaker is more important than a heavy coat. You want layers. Specifically, look for GORE-TEX or similar breathable tech.
Hire a caddie. Seriously. Even if you're a scratch golfer. The lines off the tees aren't always obvious. There are "blind" shots where you’re hitting over a ridge at a marker post you can barely see. A local caddie will save you at least five strokes and tell you better stories than I can.
Practice your short game on tight lies. Most driving ranges have lush mats. Links turf is tight and sandy. Practice hitting "thin" or "nipped" chips. If you try to get under the ball with a big flop shot, you’ll likely blade it across the green.
Check the tides. If you’re a photographer or just want the best views, the holes along the Firth of Forth look completely different at high tide versus low tide.
The West Links isn't just a golf course; it’s a time machine. It reminds us that golf was meant to be a walk in the dunes, a challenge against the elements, and a bit of a laugh. Take your time. Don't obsess over your score. Just enjoy the fact that you're playing one of the most unique stretches of land on the planet.
Next steps for your journey:
- Check the official North Berwick Golf Club visitor diary for availability.
- Look into the "Golf East Lothian" pass if you plan on playing other nearby gems like Gullane or Muirfield.
- Book a train from Edinburgh Waverley—it’s only a 35-minute ride and drops you right in the center of town, a short walk from the first tee.