You’ve probably seen the glossy photos of Eastsound. Everyone goes there. They crowd into the shops, wait forty minutes for a latte, and try to find a parking spot that doesn't exist. But if you drive past the airport, down a long, winding gravel road that feels like it’s leading you straight into the 1930s, you hit North Beach Inn. It’s different. It’s quiet. Honestly, it feels like the kind of place your grandparents would have visited before the world got so loud and complicated.
North Beach Inn Orcas Island isn't a luxury resort. Don't go there expecting a spa or a concierge in a suit. If you want high-thread-count Egyptian cotton and a smart TV in every room, you’re going to be disappointed. Instead, you get a collection of old-school, wood-shingled cottages tucked into a forest of firs and madronas, right on a private stretch of pebble beach. It’s raw. It’s real. It’s arguably the most authentic way to experience the San Juan Islands without actually sleeping in a tent.
The Magic of Being North-Facing
Most people stay on the south side of Orcas. They want the view of the ferry landing or the busy harbors. But the "North" in North Beach Inn is its secret weapon. When you stand on that beach, you are looking across the Boundary Pass toward the Canadian Gulf Islands. On a clear day, Saturna Island looks so close you could practically swim to it.
The light is different here. Since you’re facing north, you get these incredible, long-lasting sunsets that paint the sky in bruised purples and deep oranges, lasting way longer than they do in the shadows of Mount Constitution. It’s also one of the few places on the island where you can actually see the Northern Lights if the solar cycle is hitting just right. It happens more often than you’d think.
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The Cottages: Living in a Time Capsule
There are about a dozen cottages. They have names like "Owl" and "Eagle" and "Raven." They aren’t fancy. The furniture is the kind of sturdy, heavy wood stuff that has survived fifty years of families tracking in sand and salt.
Every cabin has a kitchen. This is huge. Because Orcas Island is expensive, and eating out every meal in Eastsound will bleed your wallet dry, having a place to fry up some local salmon or just boil a pot of pasta is a lifesaver. Most of them have wood-burning stoves, too. There is something fundamentally grounding about waking up, feeling the chill of the Salish Sea air, and building a fire before you even make coffee. It slows you down.
Why Pet Owners Love This Place
Finding a pet-friendly spot on Orcas that isn't a dump is surprisingly hard. North Beach Inn is famous for being incredibly welcoming to dogs. They have acres of woods and a long beach where your dog can actually be a dog. You’ll see Labradors chasing sticks into the surf and Terriers investigating tide pools. It creates a very specific vibe—very communal, very relaxed. You end up meeting your neighbors because your dogs decided to become best friends over a piece of driftwood.
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What to Actually Do (Besides Napping)
If you’re the type of person who needs a scheduled itinerary, this might drive you crazy. There are no tennis courts. No "kids club."
- Beachcombing is the primary sport. The shoreline here is a mix of pebbles, sea glass, and massive bleached logs. You can walk for a mile and barely see another soul.
- Kayak launching. If you bring your own boat or rent one, launching from this beach is way easier than dealing with the public ramps. You can paddle out toward Thompson Island or just drift and wait for the seals to pop their heads up.
- The Fire Pits. Every evening, little plumes of smoke start rising from the beach. People build small driftwood fires. They sit. They drink wine. They look at the stars. Because there’s almost zero light pollution on this end of the island, the Milky Way looks like a thick smear of white paint across the sky.
The Resident Wildlife
Don't be shocked if you walk out of your cabin and find a black-tailed deer standing three feet away. They are everywhere. They are tiny, adorable, and completely unimpressed by your presence. You’ll also hear the bald eagles. They have a high-pitched, almost giggling scream that echoes through the trees. If you’re lucky, you might even see a pod of Orcas passing by in the distance, though they usually stick closer to the west side of the island near Lime Kiln. Still, keep your binoculars handy.
The "No Frills" Reality Check
Let’s be real for a second. If you hate spiders, you might struggle. These cabins are in the woods. You might find a cobweb on the porch. The Wi-Fi is... well, let’s call it "optimistic." It works sometimes, but if you’re planning on hosting a Zoom board meeting from your cabin, you’re playing a dangerous game.
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This is a place for disconnecting. It’s for the person who wants to read a physical book, play board games with their kids, and remember what it feels like to not have a phone buzzing in their pocket every thirty seconds. It’s rustic. Some people call it "shabby chic," but honestly, it’s just "shabby" in the best possible way. It’s worn down by decades of happy memories.
How to Get There Without Losing Your Mind
Getting to Orcas Island is its own hurdle. You have to navigate the Washington State Ferry system, which is currently a bit of a mess due to staffing and boat maintenance.
- Book your ferry reservation the second they go live. They release them in tiers: two months out, two weeks out, and two days out. If you don't have a reservation, you will spend your entire vacation sitting in a hot parking lot in Anacortes.
- Fly if you can afford it. Kenmore Air flies floatplanes directly into Eastsound. It’s a 30-minute flight from Seattle, and the view is better than any movie you’ll ever see.
- Bring groceries from the mainland. The Orcas Island Market is great, but prices are significantly higher than what you’ll find at a Safeway or Costco in Anacortes or Mount Vernon.
The History You Can Feel
North Beach Inn has been run by the same family for generations. That matters. In a world where every cool boutique hotel is being bought up by some massive hospitality conglomerate, North Beach remains fiercely independent. You can feel that history in the walls. You can see it in the old photos in the main office. It’s a piece of Washington history that hasn't been polished until it’s unrecognizable.
Actionable Steps for Your Stay
If you’re ready to commit to the North Beach Inn experience, don’t just wing it. This place books up months—sometimes a year—in advance, especially for the prime summer weeks.
- Check the tides. If you want to explore the tide pools, you need to know when the low tide hits. Use a local tide chart for Eastsound; it’ll save you from a soggy walk.
- Pack layers. Even in July, the temperature can drop twenty degrees the moment the sun goes behind the trees. A fleece and a windbreaker are mandatory equipment.
- Bring a headlamp. The paths between the cabins and the beach aren't lit up like a Vegas strip. If you’re heading down to the water for a fire after dark, you’ll want your hands free.
- Visit the "Hidden" Bakery. While you're on this side of the island, check out the local farm stands. Some of them operate on an honor system where you just leave cash in a box for fresh eggs or sourdough.
The North Beach Inn isn't trying to be the Ritz. It’s trying to be a home. It’s the smell of salt air, the sound of gravel under your tires, and the total absence of a "hustle." It’s exactly what a vacation should be. Stop checking your email, put on some wool socks, and go sit by the water. The islands aren't going anywhere, and for a little while, neither should you.