High in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming, two peaks sit like sentinels over the Cloud Peak Wilderness. They aren't the famous ones. Most hikers driving up toward Buffalo or Sheridan have their eyes glued to Cloud Peak itself, the 13,000-foot king of the range. But for those who actually know the topography of the Bighorns, North Swayze and South Swayze represent something entirely different. They aren't just bumps on a map; they are the gatekeepers to some of the most rugged, high-altitude terrain in the lower 48.
People get them confused. All the time.
Honestly, if you're looking at a topo map for the first time, North and South Swayze look like an afterthought compared to the sheer granite faces of the Black Tooth or Bomber Mountain. But that's the trap. These twin summits—North Swayze at roughly 11,424 feet and South Swayze slightly lower—are the keys to understanding the drainage systems of the Clear Creek and Piney Creek watersheds. They aren't "easy" walk-ups. They are remote, wind-blasted, and tucked away in a corner of the wilderness that sees more elk than humans.
Why the Swayze Peaks are Wyoming’s Best Kept Secret
The Big Horn Mountains are weird, geologically speaking. Unlike the Tetons, which just shoot straight up out of the ground like a jagged fence, the Bighorns are a massive uplift. You spend hours driving up these long, sloping grades, and suddenly you're on a high-altitude plateau that feels like the surface of the moon. This is where the Swayze peaks live.
North Swayze is basically a giant pile of Precambrian granite. It’s old. Like, billions of years old. When you stand on the ridge connecting North and South Swayze, you aren't just looking at scenery; you’re looking at the exposed roots of the North American continent. Most people miss the nuance of the "Swayze Gap." This is the low point between the two summits, and it acts as a massive funnel for the weather coming off the Powder River Basin. If the wind is blowing 20 mph in Buffalo, it’s screaming at 60 mph between the Swayzes.
The Real Difference Between North and South
South Swayze is the more elusive of the two. While North Swayze is often approached via the Hunter Creek or Solitude Trail systems, South Swayze requires a bit more "choose your own adventure" energy. There is no manicured, National Park-style trail leading you to the summit cairn.
You’ve gotta be comfortable with talus.
Talus is just a fancy word for "rocks that want to break your ankle." The slopes of North and South Swayze are covered in it. It's a specific type of granite scree that makes every step a gamble. Local climbers often use these peaks as "training bumps" for larger expeditions because the rock quality is variable. You’ll find solid, bulletproof plates of stone right next to piles of choss that will slide the second you put weight on them.
Accessing the Swayze Ridge: A Reality Check
Don't expect cell service. Don't expect a bathroom at the trailhead. This is the Cloud Peak Wilderness, and the regulations here are some of the strictest in the country for a reason.
👉 See also: Red Bank Battlefield Park: Why This Small Jersey Bluff Actually Changed the Revolution
- You need a self-issued permit (usually found at the trailhead box).
- No motorized anything. Not even a bicycle.
- Groups are capped at 10 people.
Most people start their journey to the Swayze area from the Circle Park Trailhead. It’s a classic. You wind through lodgepole pines, pass by Sherd Lake—which is beautiful but can be buggy enough to carry you away—and then you hit the climb. The elevation gain isn't a joke. You're starting around 8,000 feet and heading up into the 11,000s. Your lungs will feel it.
The route toward North Swayze usually involves skirting the edges of the Oliver Creek drainage. It’s lush. It’s green. Then, suddenly, the trees stop. This is the alpine tundra zone. It’s fragile stuff. One footprint on the moss up there can take decades to recover, so the "expert" move is to stay on the rock whenever possible.
The Weather Factor
Wyoming weather is a moody beast. You can have a 75-degree day in July turn into a blinding snowstorm by 2 PM. Because North and South Swayze sit on the eastern edge of the high crest, they catch the "updrafts" from the plains.
Thunderstorms here are terrifying.
If you see clouds starting to build over the peaks by noon, you need to be off the high ridges. There is zero cover. Being the highest point on a granite ridge during a lightning storm is a great way to become a statistic. Local search and rescue teams in Johnson County have plenty of stories about hikers who thought they could "beat the storm" on the Swayze ridge and ended up hunkered down in a boulder field praying for their lives.
The Wildlife and the "Swayze Buffalo" Myth
There’s an old story—probably more of a tall tale—about a small herd of bison that used to get lost up near the Swayze peaks. While you won't see bison up there today (they prefer the lower basins), you will see Moose.
Lots of them.
The willow bogs at the base of South Swayze are prime moose habitat. These aren't the friendly cartoon characters people imagine; they are thousand-pound tanks with a bad attitude. Give them space. Higher up, on the actual slopes of North Swayze, you're more likely to run into Pikas. They’re these little mountain-dwelling mammals that look like a mix between a hamster and a rabbit. They spend all day "haying"—collecting grass to survive the winter. If you hear a high-pitched "eeep!" while you're scrambling, that’s a Pika telling you to get off its lawn.
✨ Don't miss: Why the Map of Colorado USA Is Way More Complicated Than a Simple Rectangle
Navigating the Terrain: Technical Details
Let’s talk about the actual ascent. If you’re aiming for the summit of North Swayze, you’re looking at a Class 2 or light Class 3 scramble depending on your line.
- The East Face: Avoid it unless you like vertical bushwhacking through stunted pines (krummholz).
- The Southern Ridge: This is the "standard" way. It’s a long, steady grind up the spine of the mountain.
- The North Couloir: Usually holds snow until late July. If you have an ice axe and know how to use it, this is a fun shortcut. If you don't, it’s a slide to your doom.
South Swayze is actually a bit more complex to link up. The "Saddle" between the two looks easy from a distance, but it’s actually a jagged mess of "gendarme" rock towers. You'll find yourself constantly dropping down 50 feet and climbing back up 50 feet just to move forward. It’s exhausting. Most people who bag North Swayze decide they’re "good" and skip the South peak.
That’s a mistake. The view of the Cloud Peak Glacier from the top of South Swayze is actually superior to the view from the North peak. You get a better angle on the massive cirque and the turquoise glacial lakes sitting in the basins below.
Historical Context: Who was Swayze?
The name "Swayze" isn't just a random word. Like most things in the Bighorns, the peaks are named after early surveyors or prominent locals from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Swayze family was part of the fabric of the Buffalo and Sheridan communities during the pioneer era.
Mapping these peaks wasn't easy.
Back in the day, surveyors had to lug heavy glass-plate cameras and brass theodolites up these slopes. When you're struggling with your 20-pound modern backpack, just imagine doing it in wool pants and leather boots with a 60-pound wooden tripod on your shoulder. It puts the "difficulty" of North and South Swayze into perspective.
The Ecological Importance of the Region
The Swayze peaks are part of a massive "water tower." The snow that piles up in the shadows of these granite walls is what feeds the ranches in the valleys below. Without the slow melt from the high Bighorns, places like Buffalo, Wyoming, would be a desert.
The North Swayze drainage feeds directly into the Piney Creek system. This water is incredibly pure—literally melted ice and rain filtered through ancient rock. Scientists often study the lichen and mosses on these peaks to monitor air quality, as the high-altitude environment is incredibly sensitive to pollutants from hundreds of miles away.
🔗 Read more: Bryce Canyon National Park: What People Actually Get Wrong About the Hoodoos
Modern Challenges for the Area
Overcrowding is becoming a thing, even here. While it’s not exactly Disneyland, the secret is out. Social media has brought a lot of "influencer" types to the Cloud Peak Wilderness who aren't always prepared for the reality of 11,000-foot peaks.
We’re seeing more trash. More illegal campfires (which are strictly banned above 9,200 feet).
If you go, follow the Leave No Trace principles. Pack out your peppermint schnapps bottles. Don't build new fire rings. The beauty of North and South Swayze is their "untouched" feel. Let’s keep it that way.
Actionable Steps for Your Swayze Expedition
If you’re actually going to do this, don't just wing it.
First, get the USGS 7.5-minute topo map for the "Swayze Peak" quadrangle. Digital maps are great, but batteries die in the cold, and the granite walls can mess with GPS signals. Having a paper backup is just smart.
Second, check the SNOTEL data. This is a system of automated sensors that tells you how much snow is actually on the ground. If the "Soldier Park" or "Cloud Peak" sensors are still showing 40 inches of snow, North Swayze is going to be a post-holing nightmare. Wait for the melt. Usually, mid-July through mid-September is the sweet spot.
Third, gear up for wind. Even on a sunny day, the "Swayze Gap" will chill you to the bone. Bring a high-quality windshell and a pair of light gloves.
Finally, tell someone where you’re going. The Bighorns are vast. If you twist an ankle on the back side of South Swayze, it could be days before another hiker passes by. A simple "In-Reach" satellite communicator is worth its weight in gold up there.
Basically, North and South Swayze are for the person who wants the "Big Horn experience" without the crowds of the main Cloud Peak trail. It’s rugged, it’s lonely, and it’s spectacular. Just respect the mountain, and it might just let you stand on its head for a few minutes.