You’ve seen the photos of the Royal Mile. It’s packed. Shoulder-to-shoulder tourists, overpriced shortbread, and bagpipes on every corner. It’s iconic, sure, but after an hour, you just want somewhere quiet where the food actually tastes like someone gave a damn.
Enter No 11 Brasserie.
Tucked away on Brunswick Street, just a ten-minute stroll from the chaos of Princes Street, this place feels like a secret you shouldn't really be telling people about. It’s part of a Georgian townhouse, all high ceilings and massive windows, but it doesn’t feel stuffy. Honestly, it feels like sitting in the dining room of a very wealthy, very tasteful friend.
The History Is Literally Under Your Feet
Most people walk through the front door and admire the cornicing. It’s beautiful—William Playfair, the guy who basically designed half of Edinburgh’s New Town, built this place back in 1822. But look at the floor. Specifically, look at the tiles in the entrance hall.
They’re cracked.
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For sixty years, this building was the Black Watch Club. Veterans from Scotland’s oldest kilted regiment would roll heavy beer barrels straight through the front door and down the hall. Those cracks are basically battle scars from decades of soldiers having a good time. Knowing that makes the fine-dining atmosphere feel a lot more grounded.
What No 11 Brasserie Edinburgh Gets Right About Food
Scottish food often gets pigeonholed into "haggis or nothing." At No 11 Brasserie Edinburgh, they do the staples, but they do them with a bit of a wink. Head Chef Stevie Gerrard—who picked up an AA Rosette recently—is a bit of a mad scientist when it comes to presentation.
- The Salmon: It’s home-cured with citrus gin. Not just any gin, but usually something local that cuts through the fat of the fish perfectly.
- The Venison: It’s cooked sous vide, which basically means it's incredibly tender, and served with a blackberry compote that’ll make you want to lick the plate.
- The "Chocolate Forest": This is the one everyone Instagrams. It’s a deconstructed dessert that looks like a literal woodland floor. It sounds pretentious, but once you taste the different textures, you won't care.
They also work with a local forager named Ben Robertson. Imagine a guy wandering through the Scottish hills every morning to find the mushrooms that end up on your plate that evening. It’s that level of "farm-to-table" without the marketing buzzwords.
The Afternoon Tea Situation
If you’re looking for a massive, tiered tray of food that’ll put you in a sugar coma, this is the spot. Their luxury afternoon tea is a local favorite. They do the standard sandwiches and scones, but they also offer a savory version. Think haggis on oatcakes, mackerel pâté, and sausage rolls that actually have meat in them.
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The dining room is painted this deep, moody blue. When the candles are lit in the fireplace, it’s the best place in the city to hide from the horizontal Scottish rain.
Why It’s Actually Better Than The "Big" Restaurants
Edinburgh has a lot of Michelin-starred spots. They’re great, but they’re also expensive and sometimes feel like a performance. No 11 is family-run. Owners Susan and Hamish Grant are usually around, and there’s a genuine warmth to the service that you don't get in the big corporate hotels.
It’s also surprisingly quiet. Because it’s on a residential street near Calton Hill, you don’t get the "churn" of tourists. You can actually hear yourself think.
Know Before You Go
There are a few quirks. The building is old—like, 200-years-old old. That means no lift. If you’re staying in the boutique hotel part and you’re on the top floor, prepare for a workout.
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Also, the entrance isn't wheelchair accessible due to those historic stone steps. It’s a shame, but it’s the reality of a Grade A listed building where you can't even change a lightbulb without permission from the city council.
A Few Practical Tips
- Book for Sunday Lunch: It’s served from 12 pm to 3 pm and it’s arguably the best value in the city.
- The Mural: Check out the wall. There’s a massive mural by Nicola Cairns featuring figures from the Scottish Enlightenment. It’s a great way to pretend you’re learning history while you drink a Bellini.
- The Garden: If the sun actually decides to come out (it happens sometimes), there’s a private garden at the back. It’s a total sun trap and the best place for a quiet gin and tonic.
How to Get the Most Out of Your Visit
If you're planning a trip, don't just show up for dinner and leave. Walk up Calton Hill first. It’s only five minutes away. You’ll get that classic "Athens of the North" view of the city, and by the time you walk back down, you’ll have worked up enough of an appetite for three courses.
Order the Highland venison. Don't skip the bread—it’s usually baked fresh and the salted butter is addictive. And if Stevie is in the kitchen, ask if there’s anything off-menu from the day’s foraging. Sometimes they have wild garlic or mushrooms that aren't listed but are better than anything else on the card.
Next Steps for Your Visit
To make the most of your time at No 11 Brasserie, you should aim to book at least 48 hours in advance, especially for weekend slots, as the dining room is intimate and fills up with locals. If you're coming for a special occasion, mention it when booking; the staff are known for adding small personal touches to the table. After your meal, take a five-minute walk toward the Edinburgh Playhouse if you're catching a show—it's the perfect pre-theatre dining spot that avoids the usual "hurry-up" vibe of closer restaurants.