You’ve seen them. Even if you aren't a "sneakerhead," you know the shoe. It’s that crisp white leather, the bold varsity red swoosh, and that tiny streak of blue on the midsole. It is the Nike white and red Cortez.
People call it the "Forrest Gump." Others call it the L.A. uniform. Some just see a vintage runner. But there is a massive amount of history—and a few persistent myths—packed into that thin EVA sole. Honestly, the story of how this shoe actually came to be is way more chaotic than the clean design suggests.
It wasn't even supposed to be a Nike shoe.
The Conquistador and the Lawsuit
Back in the late '60s, Nike didn't exist. It was Blue Ribbon Sports, a middleman company run by Phil Knight and legendary track coach Bill Bowerman. They were just importing Japanese shoes from Onitsuka Tiger. Bowerman, ever the tinkerer, wanted a shoe that wouldn't kill a runner's feet during long road miles. He came up with a design featuring a "sandwich" of dual-density foam.
They initially named it the "Mexico" for the 1968 Olympics. Then they tried "Aztec." Adidas sued because they had a shoe called the "Azteca."
In a classic move of 1970s pettiness, Bowerman and Knight landed on "Cortez." Why? Because Hernán Cortés was the conquistador who defeated the Aztecs. Basically, it was a "take that" to Adidas.
When Blue Ribbon Sports split from Onitsuka Tiger in 1972, both companies claimed the design. A judge eventually ruled that both could sell the shoe, but only Nike could keep the name "Cortez." Onitsuka had to rename their version the Corsair.
If you look at an Onitsuka Tiger Corsair today, it looks almost identical to the Nike white and red Cortez. Now you know why.
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That "Forrest Gump" Colorway
Most people think the white, red, and blue version is the "original" because of the movie. It’s not. While it was one of the earliest colorways released in 1972, the very first Cortez was actually leather. Bowerman soon realized leather was too heavy for serious racing, so he introduced the Nylon Cortez in 1974, marketing it as the "lightest running shoe in the world."
When Tom Hanks opened that box on the park bench in 1994, he was holding the 1972-style leather version.
That movie single-handedly saved the shoe from fading into the 70s archives. Before Forrest Gump, the Cortez was deeply localized. In Los Angeles, it had become the unofficial shoe of Chicano culture and, unfortunately, a marker for gang affiliation in certain neighborhoods. By the late '80s and early '90s, if you wore certain colors of Cortez in the wrong part of L.A., you were asking for trouble.
Then Forrest ran across the country in them, and suddenly, the Nike white and red Cortez was "wholesome" again.
Leather vs. Nylon: Which Should You Actually Buy?
If you're looking for a pair today, you’ll probably see two main versions: the classic leather and the textile (nylon).
They feel totally different.
The Leather Version
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- Pros: It looks "premium." It holds its shape better over time and is way easier to clean. If you spill a drink on these at a bar, you just wipe it off.
- Cons: It’s stiff. Like, really stiff at first. You will need to break these in, or you’ll end up with blisters on your heels. It also doesn't breathe. Your feet will get hot.
The Nylon Version
- Pros: Lightweight and comfortable right out of the box. It has that authentic 1970s "track star" vibe.
- Cons: It’s a magnet for dirt. Once the nylon gets stained, it’s a nightmare to get back to that "Forrest Gump" white. It also offers zero lateral support. If you have weak ankles, be careful.
Neither of these are "good" running shoes by 2026 standards. Don't try to run a marathon in them unless you want a date with a physical therapist. They are lifestyle sneakers, period.
Why the 2024-2026 Re-releases Matter
Nike recently updated the Cortez (often called the Cortez '23 or '24 specs). They fixed the "toe box" problem. Older retros had this weird, narrow, pointy toe that felt like a torture device for anyone with wide feet. The newer versions have a wider toe box and a slightly higher midsole that doesn't delaminate as easily.
If you are buying on the secondary market (eBay, StockX, GOAT), look for the Style Code: FZ1347-100. That’s the most recent "Forrest Gump" leather retro. It’s got the upgraded materials and the more "OG" shape.
How to Spot a Fake in 2026
Because the Cortez is a relatively simple shoe, the "fakes" can be pretty convincing. But they usually mess up the herringbone outsole.
Flip the shoe over. The zig-zag pattern should be razor-sharp. On cheap replicas, the edges of the "teeth" look rounded or blurry because they use cheap molds. Also, check the "Swoosh." On an authentic Nike white and red Cortez, the red leather of the Swoosh should be thick and have a slight texture. If it feels like thin plastic or "pleather," it’s a dud.
Another giveaway is the smell. Authentic Nikes have a specific, slightly sweet rubber scent. Fakes often smell like harsh industrial glue or gasoline.
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Styling It Without Looking Like a Costume
The trap with the white and red Cortez is looking like you're wearing a 1970s Halloween costume.
Avoid wearing them with high white socks and short shorts unless you’re actually going for the retro-runner look. Instead, lean into the West Coast aesthetic. They look best with:
- Straight-leg raw denim: Let the hem sit just above the shoe.
- Workwear trousers: Think Dickies or Ben Davis. This nods to the shoe's L.A. roots.
- Clean, oversized basics: A heavy white tee and some relaxed chinos let the shoes do the talking.
One thing to keep in mind: the Cortez is a "slim" shoe. If you wear them with super skinny jeans, your feet will look like long bananas. If you wear them with massive, baggy "puddle" pants, the shoes will disappear. You need a mid-range silhouette to make them work.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're ready to pick up a pair, don't just buy the first one you see on a resale site.
- Check the "Premium" listings first. Nike often drops a "Premium" version with better leather that doesn't crease as badly. It's worth the extra $10–$20.
- Size up. The Cortez famously runs narrow. If you're between sizes, always go a half-size up.
- Protect the Nylon. If you choose the nylon version, spray them with a water and stain repellent before you step outside.
- Know your history. When someone says "cool Forrest Gumps," tell them about the "Aztec" lawsuit. You'll be the most interesting person in the room—or at least the most pedantic sneaker fan.
The Nike white and red Cortez isn't just a shoe; it's a survivor. It survived a messy corporate divorce, a name change, and several shifts in cultural perception. Whether you're wearing them for the nostalgia or the style, they remain one of the few sneakers that actually earns the title of "iconic."
Make sure you're buying the '23/'24 spec for the best fit, and avoid the pre-2020 versions if you value your pinky toes.