If you close your eyes and picture a "classic" bunny, you’re probably looking at a New Zealand White. Snowy fur. Bright pink eyes. Big, upright ears. It is the quintessential image of a rabbit, yet most people who see them at the county fair or in a rescue shelter don't actually know where they came from.
Honestly, the name is a total lie.
They aren't from New Zealand. Not even a little bit. This breed is as American as apple pie, first developed in California around 1916 or 1917. The name likely stuck because of the "New Zealand Red" rabbits that were part of their early ancestry—rabbits that supposedly descended from imports from the island nation. But the New Zealand White rabbit as we know it today was a deliberate creation by American breeders like W.S. Preshaw. They wanted a powerhouse animal. Fast-growing, heavy-set, and docile.
Why do they have those red eyes?
It creeps some people out. Let's be real. Those "ruby eyes" are often the reason these rabbits get passed over at shelters in favor of cute Lops or tiny Netherland Dwarfs. But those eyes are just a result of albinism. It means they lack melanin, the pigment that gives color to skin and hair. Because the iris is colorless, you’re actually seeing the blood vessels in the back of the eye. It’s not supernatural; it’s just biology.
In the rabbit world, they are often called REWs—Ruby Eyed Whites.
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The "Golden Retriever" of the rabbit world
Don’t let the industrial history fool you. While these rabbits were originally bred for meat and fur—and are still the primary breed used in laboratory research—their temperament is arguably the best in the entire rabbit kingdom.
They are remarkably chill.
Most small rabbit breeds are high-strung. A Netherland Dwarf might weigh two pounds, but it has the attitude of a caffeinated Chihuahua. New Zealands? They’re basically the Big Lebowski of bunnies. Because they were bred to be handled frequently in commercial settings, they’ve had the "spookiness" mostly bred out of them. They are generally more patient with kids and less likely to bolt at the sound of a closing door.
Size and space: They aren't "starter" pets
A full-grown New Zealand White is a big animal. We’re talking 9 to 12 pounds of solid muscle. If you put one in a tiny pet store cage, you are essentially putting a Great Dane in a closet.
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It won't work.
You’ve got to think about their back legs. New Zealands have incredibly powerful hindquarters. If they get spooked and kick out without proper support, they can actually break their own spines. It’s a tragic reality for many large breeds. When you pick them up, you must scoop the butt. Every time. No exceptions.
Living with a New Zealand White rabbit
If you’re thinking about bringing one home, forget the hutch in the backyard. That’s an outdated, 1950s way of keeping rabbits that usually leads to a lonely, bored, and heat-stroked animal. These guys are smart. They can be litter box trained just like a cat.
- Diet: 80% of their life should be Timothy hay. They need the fiber to keep their gut moving (preventing the deadly GI stasis) and to grind down their teeth, which never stop growing.
- Chewing: They are "land sharks." If you have a baseboard or a charging cable, they will find it. Rabbit-proofing is a full-time job.
- Heat sensitivity: Because of their size, they overheat fast. Anything over 80°F is getting into the danger zone. They don't sweat; they dissipate heat through those giant ears.
One thing most owners don't expect is the "dewlap." If you have a female (a doe), she’ll likely develop a large fold of skin under her chin. It looks like a furry double chin or a built-in pillow. It’s perfectly normal. She uses it to pull fur for her nest.
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The health reality
New Zealand Whites are generally hardier than the "fancy" breeds with flat faces, but they aren't invincible. Female rabbits have a terrifyingly high rate of uterine cancer—some studies suggest up to 80% after age four.
Get them spayed.
It’s not just about the cancer, though that’s the main reason. It also stops the territorial "honking," lunging, and spraying. A fixed New Zealand is a happy, lazy roommate. A "total" New Zealand is a hormonal wreck that might try to fight your vacuum cleaner.
Is this the right rabbit for you?
If you want a rabbit that behaves like a lap cat, you might be disappointed. They are still prey animals. They prefer to stay on the ground where it's safe. But if you want a rabbit that will hop over to you for head scratches while you’re watching Netflix, a New Zealand White is a top-tier choice.
They are often the "heart rabbits" of the rescue world—the ones that stay in the system the longest because they aren't "unique" looking, but end up being the most loyal companions to the people who give them a chance.
Actionable steps for future owners
If you’re ready to jump in, start here:
- Check local rescues first: Because they are so common, shelters are often overflowing with New Zealand Whites. You'll get a rabbit that is likely already spayed/neutered and litter trained.
- Skip the wire floors: Their weight makes them prone to "sore hocks" (painful pressure sores on their feet). Give them solid flooring with soft rugs or fleece.
- Buy hay in bulk: A 10-pound rabbit eats a mountain of grass. Buying small bags at the pet store will bankrupt you. Look for local farm supplies or online bulk shippers.
- Find an "Exotic" vet: Most dog and cat vets don't know how to treat rabbits. You need a specialist who understands their sensitive digestive systems and anesthesia risks.