New Hampshire Bill of Sale: What Most People Get Wrong

New Hampshire Bill of Sale: What Most People Get Wrong

Selling a beat-up snowmobile or a pristine 1960s Chevy in the Granite State shouldn't be a headache. Honestly, it shouldn't. But you’d be surprised how many people end up sitting in a plastic chair at the DMV for three hours just because they forgot one scribbled signature. A New Hampshire bill of sale is basically the "receipt" for your soul—or at least your property—and while New Hampshire is famous for its "Live Free or Die" motto, that freedom doesn't extend to skipping the paperwork.

You don't need a lawyer to draft these. You don't even need a fancy template. But you do need the right information.

If you’re selling a car, a boat, or even a high-end lawn tractor in Manchester or Nashua, you need a document that proves the deal happened. Without it, the buyer can’t register the thing, and you might still be legally liable if they get a speeding ticket or leave the vehicle abandoned on the side of I-93. It’s about protection.

Why the DMV Actually Cares About This Paper

New Hampshire is a bit of an outlier. Unlike many states, the NH Department of Safety (Division of Motor Vehicles) doesn't always mandate a state-specific, pre-printed form for every single private sale, but they have very strict requirements for what must be included on whatever piece of paper you use.

If you're dealing with a vehicle that is 2000 or newer, you need the title. That’s the golden ticket. But for vehicles manufactured in 1999 or earlier, New Hampshire doesn't issue titles. This is where the New Hampshire bill of sale becomes the most important document in your glove box. For those older "exempt" vehicles, the bill of sale acts as the primary link in the chain of ownership. If that link is broken, the buyer is stuck with a very expensive lawn ornament.

Local town clerks—who handle much of the registration legwork in NH—look for specific "identifiers." They want to see the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), the year, the make, and the model. They also want to see the odometer reading. Yes, even if the car is thirty years old and the odometer has flipped three times.

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The Anatomy of a Legitimate New Hampshire Bill of Sale

Don't overcomplicate it. You need the basics.

First, identify the parties. Full names and physical addresses. No P.O. Boxes if you can help it; the state likes to know where you actually live. You’re basically saying, "I, John Doe, sold this to Jane Smith."

Next is the money. Be honest here. Some people try to list the sale price as $1 to help the buyer save on taxes, but in New Hampshire, you pay a registration fee based on the vehicle's original list price and age, not the sales tax (since there is no general sales tax). However, lying about the price on a legal document is still fraud. Just write down what actually changed hands.

Then comes the description of the item.

  • The VIN: Check it three times. A "5" that looks like an "S" will ruin your day.
  • The Engine: For boats, you often need the engine serial number too.
  • The Condition: Most private sales are "as-is." Write that down. It protects the seller from the buyer calling two weeks later because the transmission fell out.

You also need signatures. Both of you. Date it. In New Hampshire, you don't technically need a notary for a standard vehicle bill of sale, though some people do it anyway just for the extra layer of "don't mess with me" legality. If you’re selling a boat, though, keep in mind that the requirements for the NH Department of Safety might be slightly more nuanced regarding hull IDs.

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The 1999 Rule and the "Chain of Ownership"

This is the part where people get stuck. If you're buying a 1995 Jeep Wrangler, you won't get a title. To register it, the buyer needs the previous owner's New Hampshire registration (the original one, not a copy) and a properly executed New Hampshire bill of sale.

What if the seller lost their old registration? Then you need a "Verification of Vehicle Identification Number" (Form TDMV 19A). This is a physical inspection usually done by a NH law enforcement officer or an authorized NH dealer. It’s a bit of a hoop to jump through.

If you're the seller, do the buyer a favor: find your old registration. It makes the bill of sale actually work. Without that previous registration or a VIN verification, that bill of sale is just a piece of paper with names on it.

Boats, ATVs, and Snowmobiles

New Hampshire is a playground. People buy and sell "toys" constantly. For boats, the bill of sale must include the Hull Identification Number (HIN). If the boat has a motor larger than 25 horsepower, it might be subject to different title requirements if it's newer.

For ATVs and snowmobiles, the process is handled through the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department. They have their own registration agents (often local hardware stores or power sports dealers). Even there, the bill of sale is the foundation. It should list the CCs (cubic centimeters) of the engine and the color. It sounds trivial, but the state wants to know exactly what is ripping through the woods in Coos County.

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Common Mistakes That Kill the Deal

One: The "Illegible Scribble." If the town clerk can't read your handwriting, it didn't happen.

Two: Missing the Odometer Disclosure. Federal law requires this for most vehicles. Even if the car is exempt from NH titling, the bill of sale should still reflect the mileage at the time of the swap.

Three: Not checking for liens. If you buy a truck and the seller gives you a bill of sale, but there’s still a bank lien on the title, you don't own that truck. The bank does. Always ask to see the title or a lien release before handing over the cash.

Four: Forgetting the date. The buyer usually has a limited window to get the registration sorted. The date on that New Hampshire bill of sale starts the clock.

What Happens After the Handshake?

Once the paper is signed and the cash is counted, the seller needs to take their license plates. In New Hampshire, the plates stay with the owner, not the car.

The buyer takes the bill of sale and the title (or the old registration for exempt vehicles) to their town or city clerk. You’ll pay your local permit fee first, then the state fee. It’s a two-step process that catches newcomers off guard.

Essential Next Steps for Sellers and Buyers

If you are getting ready to close a deal today, don't wait until you're standing in a driveway to figure this out.

  • For Sellers: Clean out the glove box and find the title or the most recent registration. If you can't find either, go to the DMV or your town clerk now to get a duplicate. You cannot legally complete the chain of ownership with just a New Hampshire bill of sale if the vehicle is model year 2000 or newer.
  • For Buyers: Bring a pen that works. Seriously. Check the VIN on the dashboard against the VIN the seller wrote on the paper. If they don't match, walk away.
  • Drafting the Document: Use a plain sheet of paper or a printed form. Ensure it explicitly states "Sold as-is, where-is, with no warranties expressed or implied" to limit your future liability.
  • Record Keeping: Take a clear photo of the completed, signed bill of sale on your phone before you part ways. It serves as an instant digital backup if the physical copy gets lost or stained with coffee.
  • Final Verification: Visit the official NH DMV website to check for any recent administrative changes to fee structures or form requirements, as these can shift annually with new legislative sessions.