Finding the right red lipstick is honestly a nightmare. You’ve probably spent a small fortune on "universal" shades that ended up looking like neon orange or chalky pink the second they hit your face. It’s frustrating. But then there’s NARS Air Matte Lip Color Burlesque, and suddenly the conversation changes. This isn’t your standard, thick liquid lipstick that feels like you’ve applied a layer of acrylic paint to your mouth. It’s different.
Burlesque is described by NARS as a "brown-red," but that label almost does it a disservice. It’s a deep, sultry, terracotta-leaning crimson that manages to look expensive. It’s the kind of color that makes people ask what you’re wearing while you’re just trying to drink a latte.
The Air Matte formula itself was a massive pivot for NARS. After years of the Powermatte Lip Pigment—which, let’s be real, stays on through a hurricane but can feel a bit drying—the Air Matte arrived to offer something cloud-like. It’s a weightless, blurred-out finish. If you hate the feeling of heavy makeup, this is basically the answer to your prayers.
What Makes NARS Air Matte Lip Color Burlesque So Different?
The magic is in the texture. Most matte lipsticks rely on heavy waxes or oils that eventually settle into your lip lines. This one uses what NARS calls their "Color Diffusion Complex." It sounds like marketing speak, but in practice, it’s a blend of silky polymers and micropowders. When you swipe it on, it feels like nothing.
Seriously.
It’s airy. It’s soft. It feels more like a silicone-based primer than a traditional lipstick. NARS Air Matte Lip Color Burlesque doesn't sit on top of the skin; it sort of melts into it, creating that diffused, "just bitten" look that’s been huge in K-beauty for years but is often hard to achieve with Western matte formulas.
The shade Burlesque specifically hits a sweet spot. Because it has those earthy, brown undertones, it doesn't scream for attention. It’s sophisticated. While a bright blue-red like "Dragon Girl" is loud and punchy, Burlesque is moody and grounded. It’s the red you wear when you want to look like you have your life together, even if you’re actually three coffees deep and running late for a meeting.
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The Application Learning Curve
You can’t apply this like a normal liquid lipstick. If you go in with a heavy hand and try to get full opacity in one swipe, you might find it moves around too much. The trick is to dab it in the center of your lips and use your finger or a fluffy blending brush to push the pigment outward.
This creates a blurred edge.
That blur is what makes it look modern. Sharp, crisp lines are great for a gala, but for daily wear, the soft-focus effect of the Air Matte formula is much more forgiving. If it fades throughout the day—which it will, because it’s not a "24-hour stay-all-day" cement—it fades gracefully. You won't get that hideous "butt-hole lip" effect where the color only remains on the outer edges of your mouth.
Why Burlesque is the Secret Weapon for Olive Skin Tones
Finding reds for olive skin is a specialized form of torture. If the red is too cool, it looks purple. If it’s too warm, it looks like fire-engine orange. NARS Air Matte Lip Color Burlesque works because the brown base provides a neutral ground.
It’s a "dirty" red.
That sounds bad, but in color theory, it’s gold. The muted quality of the pigment prevents it from clashing with the green or yellow undertones in olive skin. Instead of sitting "on" the skin, it complements the natural depth of the complexion. It’s also surprisingly flattering on very fair skin, where it pulls more like a dramatic, 1920s vintage brick red. On deeper skin tones, it functions as a gorgeous, warm nude-red that looks incredibly chic for daytime.
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The Ingredients: What’s Actually Inside?
NARS is generally transparent about their formulations, and the Air Matte line is no exception. You aren't going to find a ton of "skincare" ingredients here—this is makeup, first and foremost. However, it does contain Dimethicone as a primary base.
- Dimethicone: This is what gives it that "air" feel. It’s a silicone that fills in the tiny cracks in your lips, making them look smoother than they actually are.
- Micro-powders: These absorb light rather than reflecting it, which is how you get that flat-matte look without the dryness.
- Pigment Load: Despite being "airy," the pigment concentration in Burlesque is high. You don't need much to get the full color payoff.
Some people are wary of silicones, but they are the reason this formula doesn't feel like a desert on your face. Without them, you’d be back to the cracking, peeling mess of 2016-era liquid lipsticks.
Real-World Performance: The Coffee Test
Let's be honest: no matter how much a brand talks about "long-wear," if you eat a salad with vinaigrette, your lipstick is toast. NARS Air Matte Lip Color Burlesque is not transfer-proof. If you kiss someone, they’re going to know. If you drink from a white ceramic mug, there will be a ring.
But here’s the thing.
Because it’s a soft-matte formula, it’s incredibly easy to touch up. Unlike traditional long-wear liquids that flake off when you try to layer them, you can just tap more Burlesque on top of your existing color and it blends seamlessly. It doesn't get "cakey" or thick.
If you’re looking for something to wear to a twelve-course dinner where you won't have a mirror, this might not be your first choice. But for an office job, a date, or a night out where you don't mind a quick 5-second touch-up, the comfort level far outweighs the lack of "permanent" staying power.
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Is it Worth the Price?
At the time of writing, NARS Air Matte Lip Color typically retails around $28-$30. That’s not cheap. You can get a Maybelline or L’Oreal matte for a fraction of that. However, the nuance of the shade Burlesque is hard to find in the drugstore. Most affordable reds are either very bright or very dark. The "in-between" earthy red of Burlesque is a hallmark of Francois Nars’ color philosophy—he’s a master of "ugly-pretty" colors that somehow look breathtaking on the face.
The packaging is also top-tier. It’s a color-matched, soft-touch tube that feels expensive in your hand. It’s slim enough to fit in the tiniest "going out" bag, and the applicator is a small, precise doe-foot that makes it easy to map out your lip shape.
Misconceptions About the Air Matte Line
A lot of people buy this expecting a traditional liquid lipstick and end up disappointed because it "doesn't dry down." It’s not supposed to dry down to a hard film. If it did, it wouldn't be "air" matte. It’s supposed to remain flexible.
Another common complaint is that it can emphasize dry patches. This is true of literally every matte lipstick ever made. If your lips are peeling, the powders in the formula will cling to those bits.
Pro Tip: Use a damp washcloth or a sugar scrub to gently exfoliate your lips before applying Burlesque. Follow with a tiny bit of lip balm, let it sink in for five minutes, blot the excess off, and then apply the lip color. It makes a world of difference.
Actionable Steps for Using NARS Burlesque
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on this shade, or if you already have it sitting in your makeup drawer, here is how to get the best results:
- For the "French Girl" Look: Apply Burlesque only to the center of your lips. Use your ring finger to smudge it out toward the edges, letting the color get lighter as it reaches your lip line. Pair this with nothing but mascara and clean skin.
- For Maximum Impact: Line your lips first with a slightly darker brown or mahogany liner (NARS "Vain" or "Mona" work well). Apply Burlesque over the top, then use a small concealer brush with a tiny bit of foundation to clean up the edges. This makes the earthy-red pop.
- For Longevity: Apply one thin layer, blot with a single ply of tissue, and then apply a second thin layer. This "stains" the lips and helps the color survive through a drink or two.
- Check the Undertones: Before buying, swatch it next to a true red. If Burlesque looks too "muddy" for your taste, you might prefer the shade "Dragon Girl" or "Total Domination." But if you want that 90s-meets-modern-glamour vibe, Burlesque is your winner.
Burlesque isn't just another red lipstick; it's a mood. It’s for the person who wants the drama of a red lip without the high maintenance of a liquid matte or the "loudness" of a classic primary red. It’s sophisticated, slightly edgy, and feels like absolutely nothing on the lips. In a world of heavy, over-the-top beauty products, that’s a breath of fresh air.