You’ve probably seen the photos. Those crisp, deep-carved Breguet numerals that look like they were sliced into butter, the warm glow of German silver, and that distinctive small seconds subdial sitting at 9 o'clock. It’s the unmistakable look of Naoya Hida & Co., a brand that has, in just a few short years, gone from a "if you know, you know" secret to one of the most lusted-after names in independent watchmaking.
Honestly, it’s a bit wild how fast they took off.
Founded in 2018 by Naoya Hida, a veteran of the luxury watch industry who spent decades at big names like F.P. Journe and Breguet, the brand doesn't actually make its own movements from scratch. In a world where "in-house" is often used as a weapon to justify high prices, Hida-san took a different path. He focused on the vibe. Specifically, a mid-century aesthetic that feels like a lost vintage treasure found in a Tokyo vault, but built with the surgical precision of modern machinery.
The Secret Sauce of Naoya Hida & Co.
So, what’s the deal with the movements? If you’re a spec-sheet warrior, you might be surprised to learn that many Naoya Hida & Co. watches use a base caliber derived from the Valjoux 7750. Yes, the legendary chronograph workhorse. But here’s the kicker: they strip away the automatic winding and the chronograph functions entirely.
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What’s left is a manual-wind movement that Hida-san likes because of its architecture—specifically where that small seconds hand lands. It creates a balanced, vintage-proportioned layout that you just can't get with modern off-the-shelf movements. They don't just "drop it in," either. The team, including master watchmaker Kosuke Fujita, reworks the bridges and adds a proprietary click spring that makes winding the watch feel incredibly tactile. It’s a heavy, mechanical "click-click-click" that feels more like a 1930s pocket watch than a modern luxury item.
The stars of the show, though, are the dials.
While most brands stamp their dials or use lasers, Naoya Hida & Co. uses a mix of high-tech micro-milling and old-school handwork. Master engraver Keisuke Kano carves those numerals by hand. If you look closely at a Type 1D or a Type 2C, you'll see tiny variations. It’s what the Japanese call wabi-sabi—the beauty in imperfection. After the engraving, they fill the indices with "cashew" lacquer, a synthetic version of traditional urushi that gives the text a thick, glossy depth you won't find on a printed dial.
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Breaking Down the Models
If you’re trying to keep track of the lineup, it’s basically organized by "Types." Each one captures a slightly different era of watch design.
- Type 1: This is the foundation. It’s got that 37mm case (mostly 904L steel, which is harder to polish but brighter than standard steel) and the small seconds at 9. It’s pure 1930s/40s chronometer style.
- Type 2: These move into the 1950s. They usually feature center seconds and a "sector" style dial. It’s a bit more "science-chic," if that’s a thing.
- Type 3: The elegant one. This is where you find the moon phase. The moon itself is hand-engraved 18k gold, and the face on the moon—designed by Hida-san himself—is charmingly human. For 2025/2026, the NH Type 3B-3 is the heavy hitter, featuring an 18k yellow gold case and a lapis lazuli moon disc. Only about five of those will exist.
- Type 4: The "sporty" one. It’s slightly smaller at 36mm but feels beefier due to the thicker lugs. It has these amazing "diamond" hands that are milled, not stamped, giving them a crazy 3D profile.
- Type 5: The rectangular one. It’s a dress watch that looks like it belongs on the wrist of a 1930s film star. The new Type 5A-1 even uses an acrylic crystal to get that specific vintage warmth that sapphire just can't replicate.
- Type 6: The big gun. Announced recently, the NH Type 6A is their first perpetual calendar. It’s a collaboration with the legendary Habring² for the base movement and Dubois-Dépraz for the calendar module. At roughly ¥7,500,000, it's a serious piece of kit.
Why Is It So Hard to Get One?
Basically, they don't make many. We’re talking maybe 100 watches a year for the entire world.
The buying process is also pretty unique. You can't just walk into a boutique and swipe your card. For the 2025/2026 production cycle, the application window usually opens in the spring. You submit an application through their website or partners like The Armoury, and then you wait. It’s essentially a lottery. If they pick you, you get the privilege of paying for the watch and waiting months for it to be hand-assembled in their tiny Tokyo studio.
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Is it worth it? Most collectors say yes. The secondary market prices definitely suggest so. A Type 1B that originally sold for around $15,000 to $20,000 can easily fetch $30,000+ at auction. People aren't just buying a watch; they're buying into a specific Japanese philosophy of "modern vintage" that nobody else is doing quite this way.
What to Watch Out For
If you’re hunting for one on the secondary market, keep your eyes peeled. Because these are handmade, the "batches" matter. Earlier models might have different case backs or slight variations in how the numerals are carved.
Also, the steel they use—904L—is the same stuff Rolex uses. It’s incredibly corrosion-resistant but a nightmare to work with. If you find a used one with deep scratches, just know that not every local watchmaker will have the equipment to polish it back to that "Hida shine" without ruining the sharp edges of the case.
Actionable Advice for Aspiring Owners
If you're serious about adding a Naoya Hida & Co. to your collection, here is the game plan for 2026:
- Mark your calendar for Spring 2026. That's when the next official application window is expected to open on their website.
- Follow The Armoury. Mark Cho was one of the first people to champion the brand, and they often get exclusive allocations or "Lettercutter" collaborations that are worth the effort.
- Check the "Story" section. The brand is very transparent. They actually publish production totals for every model they've ever made. If a seller tells you a watch is one of five, you can actually verify that on the official site.
- Don't obsess over "In-House." If you need a 100% proprietary movement to be happy, this isn't the brand for you. But if you value dial work and tactile winding feel over movement pedigree, you’ll be obsessed.
The reality is that Naoya Hida & Co. represents a shift in what collectors value. It’s not about who has the most complicated machine; it’s about who has the best eye for detail and the guts to keep production small in a world of mass-market luxury.