Walk down the humid, narrow corridor of Jalan Masjid in George Town, and you’ll smell it before you see it. It’s that sharp, heady scent of toasted belacan mixed with the sweet, floral aroma of fresh pandan leaves. If you follow your nose, you’ll end up at Moh Teng Pheow Nyonya Koay, a place that feels less like a restaurant and more like a time machine. At the center of this operation is the formidable Ms. Lee, the matriarch and guardian of recipes that have survived world wars and urban shifts.
Honestly, calling her just a "vendor" is a bit of an insult. She’s more like a high priestess of Nyonya culture.
People come to George Town for the street art and the hipster cafes, but they stay for the kuih. Specifically, the kuih made by Ms. Lee and her family. In a world where everything is mass-produced and "good enough" is the standard, she represents a stubborn refusal to take shortcuts.
The Woman Behind the Kuih Talam
Ms. Lee—often referred to by locals and regulars as the heart of the kitchen—didn't just stumble into the business. Her family history is basically the history of Penang itself. Her father-in-law, Moh Teng Pheow, started the factory back in 1933. Back then, they weren't a cafe. They were a wholesaler. They supplied the street peddlers who would roam the colonial streets of George Town with baskets of colorful cakes balanced on their heads.
Ms. Lee married into this legacy.
She wasn't a stranger to the craft, though. She came from the famous Tua Bak family of New Lane, another legendary name in the kuih world. It’s like two royal dynasties joining forces. Her grandmother, Kam Geok Chin, taught her the basics when she was just a little girl. You can see that childhood training in the way she moves. She can tell if a batch of kuih salat is ready just by the way the steam hits her face. No timers. No digital probes. Just 60 years of muscle memory.
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Why Ms Lee Georgetown Isn't Your Average Food Stop
If you’re looking for a polished, air-conditioned dining experience with white tablecloths, you’re in the wrong place. The "canteen" at Moh Teng Pheow is rustic. It’s a converted factory space with exposed brick and vintage memorabilia. It’s loud. It’s hot. And it is absolutely perfect.
The secret to why the Ms Lee Georgetown experience ranks so high for foodies isn't just the vibe. It’s the chemistry of the food.
Take the Pulut Tai Tai. It’s a simple-looking block of blue and white glutinous rice. Most places use artificial blue coloring. Not here. They still use bunga telang (butterfly pea flower) to get that deep, indigo marble effect. And the kaya? It’s thick, eggy, and slow-cooked for hours. Most people don't realize that Nyonya kuih was traditionally "high-class" food. It was meant to be eaten in small, delicate bites so the ladies of the house wouldn't mess up their makeup or sarongs. Ms. Lee keeps them small for that exact reason. Tradition isn't just about flavor; it's about the etiquette of the era.
The Misconception of "Sweetness"
A lot of tourists complain that Malaysian desserts are too sweet. Ms. Lee actually adjusted for this years ago. While she sticks to the 1930s recipes for the textures, she’s pulled back on the sugar levels to cater to modern palates. It’s a delicate balance. If you take out too much sugar, the kuih loses its gloss and won't hold its shape. She's basically a kitchen chemist.
What Most People Get Wrong About Nyonya Food
The term "Peranakan" or "Nyonya" gets thrown around a lot in George Town. You’ll see it on every second signpost. But real Nyonya food—the kind Ms. Lee prepares—is a fusion that happened hundreds of years ago between Chinese immigrants and local Malays. It’s a "fusion" that predates the word fusion by centuries.
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- The Labor: Making kuih is exhausting. You have to soak the rice, grind the beans, and squeeze the coconut milk by hand.
- The Timing: Some layers of a kuih lapis take exactly seven minutes to steam. Not six. Not eight.
- The Ingredients: Freshness isn't a buzzword here; it's a requirement. If the coconut milk is even slightly off, the whole batch is ruined.
When you see Ms. Lee in the back, she’s often overseeing the younger generation, like her son Cavin. She’s the quality control. She’s the one who knows that the Abuk-Abuk needs more sago or the Nyonya Chang needs another pinch of pepper.
Survival in a Modern George Town
George Town changed a lot after it got the UNESCO World Heritage status in 2008. Rents went up. Old families moved out. The "Disney-fication" of the city is a real threat. For a long time, the factory almost didn't make it. The COVID-19 lockdowns were brutal.
But they pivoted. They turned the old factory into a heritage cafe in 2016. They started serving savory dishes like Nasi Lemak and Roti Jala to keep people coming back for more than just snacks.
It worked.
The Michelin Guide eventually caught on, awarding them a Bib Gourmand. Does Ms. Lee care about the Michelin star? Kinda. But honestly, she seems more concerned with whether the kuih bengka ubi (tapioca cake) has the right charred crust on top. To her, the award is just a sticker on the door. The real reward is seeing a local regular come in and say it tastes exactly like it did in 1975.
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How to Do It Right
If you’re planning to visit, don't just show up at noon on a Saturday and expect a quiet seat. It doesn't work that way.
- Go Early: They open at 10 AM. By 2 PM, the most popular items like the kuih talam (green and white layers) are usually gone.
- Order the Sampler: If you’re a newbie, get the platter. It lets you try 5 or 6 different types. It’s the best way to understand the texture profile of Nyonya snacks.
- Respect the Space: It’s a working heritage site. Be patient. The staff are busy, and Ms. Lee is usually deep in the kitchen.
- Try the Savory Stuff: Don't sleep on the Nyonya Chang (glutinous rice dumplings). They use a specific spice blend that you won't find in the Chinese version of the dish.
The Actionable Takeaway
If you want to experience the real George Town, you have to look past the murals of kids on bicycles. Go to the places where the owners still have flour on their aprons and call you "Ah Boy" or "Ah Girl" regardless of your age.
Ms. Lee and her family at Moh Teng Pheow are the real deal. They are the living link between the George Town of 1933 and the George Town of 2026.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Pin the location: Look for "Moh Teng Pheow Nyonya Koay" on Jalan Masjid. It’s right off Chulia Street, but it’s easy to miss if you aren't looking for the small sign.
- Check the Days: They are generally open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM, but always check their social media or Google Maps before heading over, as heritage businesses sometimes close for family festivals or traditional holidays.
- Bring Cash: While many places in Penang are moving toward e-wallets, having some small change makes the process much smoother in these older establishments.
Support the heritage. Eat the kuih. And if you see Ms. Lee, just give her a nod of appreciation—she’s earned it.