Everest is a beast. But honestly, most people don't even realize there are two totally different ways to see it. You've got the South Side in Nepal and the North Side in Tibet. They aren't just different locations; they are entirely different universes. One is a grueling, weeks-long trek through the heart of the Himalayas, while the other is basically a road trip to a high-altitude parking lot.
Most people talking about Mount Everest base camps are picturing the colorful tents of the South Base Camp (EBC South). That’s the one you see in the movies. It sits at an altitude of about 5,364 meters (17,598 feet). It’s rugged. It’s iconic. But the North Base Camp (EBC North) in Tibet? That sits at 5,150 meters (16,900 feet) and you can literally drive a bus there.
Choosing between them isn't just about fitness. It's about what you want to feel. Do you want the sweat and the prayer flags of the Khumbu Valley, or do you want the stark, dramatic geological silence of the Tibetan plateau?
The Reality of Reaching Mount Everest Base Camps
Let's get real about the South Side first. It’s the classic. To get there, you fly into Lukla. If you haven't looked up Tenzing-Hillary Airport, do it. It’s terrifying. The runway is short and slanted, ending in a massive drop-off. From there, you walk. You walk for about eight days just to get to base camp, passing through Namche Bazaar and Tengboche. You’re dealing with thinning air, yaks pushing you off trails, and the constant smell of juniper incense and gear. It is a physical gauntlet.
Compare that to the North Side. In Tibet, the Chinese government paved a road all the way to the camp. You can take a tour bus from Lhasa, winding through the Himalayas on smooth asphalt. It’s weirdly surreal. You’re at over 17,000 feet, but you didn't have to break a sweat to get there. Because of this accessibility, the Chinese authorities have strict regulations. Sometimes the camp is moved back a few kilometers to protect the environment, meaning tourists stay at the Rongbuk Monastery area rather than the actual climbers' camp.
The Khumbu Icefall vs. The North Face
The views are fundamentally different. At EBC South, you don’t actually see the summit of Everest very well from the camp itself. Nuptse blocks it. To see the peak, you have to hike up Kala Patthar nearby. What you do see is the Khumbu Icefall. It looks like a frozen waterfall of giant glass shards. It’s beautiful and deadly. You can hear the glacier shifting at night. It sounds like a gunshot.
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Over on the North Side, the view is unobstructed. You’re staring right at the Great North Face. It’s a massive wall of rock and ice that feels like it’s leaning over you. It’s much more intimidating in a "stark desert" kind of way.
Logistics and the Red Tape Nightmare
Planning a trip to Mount Everest base camps involves a mountain of paperwork. Nepal is relatively straightforward. You need a Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit and a Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit. You can basically show up in Kathmandu, hire a guide, and go.
Tibet is a whole other story. You can't just go to Tibet. You need a Chinese Visa first, then a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP). If you want to go to Base Camp, you also need an Alien’s Travel Permit. You must be on a pre-booked tour with a licensed guide. The border can close without notice for "political reasons" or maintenance. It’s a gamble.
Altitude: The Great Leveler
Both camps will wreck you if you aren't careful. It doesn't matter if you hiked or drove. At 5,000+ meters, there is about 50% less oxygen than at sea level.
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- South Side Strategy: You gain altitude slowly as you trek. This is natural acclimatization. By the time you hit Gorak Shep, your body has had a week to produce more red blood cells.
- North Side Danger: Because you can drive there so fast, people often get hit by Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) much harder. You go from 3,600m in Lhasa to over 5,000m very quickly.
I've seen incredibly fit marathon runners collapse in Namche because they tried to go too fast. Altitude doesn't care about your VO2 max. It’s about how your specific biology handles the pressure change. If you head to the North Side, you absolutely must spend at least three nights in Lhasa first. Don't skip that.
Life at the Camps: Expectations vs. Reality
Social media makes Mount Everest base camps look like a peaceful spiritual retreat. It’s not. In the peak climbing season (April and May), the South Base Camp is a sprawling city of yellow and orange North Face tents. There are over 1,000 people living there. It’s noisy. There are helicopters buzzing overhead constantly—either bringing in supplies or evacuating people with HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema).
The "camps" for tourists are actually slightly removed from the actual "expedition" camps. In Nepal, you sleep in tea houses along the way, which are basically plywood lodges. They are unheated. You sleep in a heavy sleeping bag, and the water in your bottle will freeze solid by 3:00 AM.
In Tibet, tourist accommodation is often in "tent hotels" run by locals during the summer. They are surprisingly cozy, usually centered around a yak-dung stove. They serve butter tea, which is an acquired taste. It’s salty and greasy, but it’s exactly what your body needs to stay hydrated and fueled in that environment.
Environmental Impact and Ethics
We have to talk about the trash. For years, Everest was called the world's highest graveyard and junkyard. Things are changing, but slowly. In Nepal, the Sagarmatha Next project is trying to turn waste into art and ensuring hikers carry out what they carry in. On the Chinese side, the restrictions are even tighter now. They’ve limited the number of climbing permits and even closed the camp to non-climbers at various points to do massive clean-up operations.
If you go, you’re part of the economy, but you’re also part of the footprint. Using "poop bags" is now a requirement for climbers on the South Side to prevent groundwater contamination. It’s not glamorous, but it’s the reality of high-altitude tourism in 2026.
Cost Comparison: How Much Does This Actually Cost?
Budgeting for Mount Everest base camps varies wildly.
The Nepal trek usually costs between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on the level of comfort. This includes your flights to Lukla, your guide, porter, permits, and food. You can do it cheaper if you carry your own bag, but honestly, at that altitude, paying a porter is a great way to support the local Sherpa economy and save your knees.
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The Tibet side is more expensive because you must have a private vehicle and guide. You’re looking at $2,500 to $4,000 for a 7-10 day tour starting from Lhasa. This covers the permits, which are expensive, and the logistics of traveling across the plateau.
What No One Tells You About the Weather
It is windy. Not "breezy," but a constant, soul-crushing wind that rattles your skull. In the spring, the wind is usually manageable, but the clouds can roll in by noon and erase the mountain entirely. You can spend $3,000 and 10 days of your life to get to a viewpoint and see... nothing but white mist.
The best visibility is actually in the autumn (October and November). The air is crisp and clear. It’s much colder—frequently hitting -20°C at night—but the views are guaranteed. Most people choose spring because that’s when the climbers are there, and the energy of the camp is more "alive." If you just want the photo, go in October.
Actionable Steps for Your Journey
If you’re serious about visiting the Mount Everest base camps, don't just wing it.
- Training: Spend three months before your trip doing "Zone 2" cardio. Think long, slow rucks with a weighted pack. High-intensity interval training is less useful here than pure endurance.
- Gear: Buy your boots early and break them in. Blisters at 15,000 feet turn into infections quickly because your body doesn't heal well in low oxygen.
- Insurance: This is the big one. Make sure your travel insurance specifically covers "high altitude trekking up to 6,000 meters" and "helicopter evacuation." Standard policies usually cut off at 3,000 meters. A heli-evac from EBC South can cost $5,000 to $10,000 out of pocket.
- Medical: Consult a doctor about Acetazolamide (Diamox). It helps your body acclimate, but it makes your fingers tingle and carbonated drinks taste like metal.
The South Side offers the cultural immersion of the Sherpa heartland. The North Side offers the raw, desolate majesty of the Tibetan Plateau. Both are life-changing, but they require different mindsets. One is a pilgrimage; the other is a witness to the scale of the earth. Choose the one that matches your physical limits and your logistical patience.
Check the current status of the Tibet Travel Permit through a reputable agency like Tibet Vista or Himalayan Glacier before booking anything, as China's entry policies for the North Base Camp can change with very little notice. For Nepal, ensure you have at least two buffer days in Kathmandu at the end of your trip; flights out of Lukla are frequently cancelled for days due to fog, and you don't want to miss your international flight home.