If you’re landing in Morocco for the first time, there’s a high probability your first breath of North African air will be drawn right outside the sliding glass doors of Mohammed V International Airport. It’s the busiest gateway in the country. It’s chaotic. It’s a bit of a maze. Honestly, if you don't know the layout, it can feel like a stressful start to a vacation that’s supposed to be about relaxation and mint tea.
Located about 30 kilometers southeast of Casablanca in the province of Nouaceur, this airport handles nearly 10 million passengers a year. That’s a lot of feet hitting the tarmac. People often complain about the wait times or the signage, but here’s the thing—if you understand the rhythm of CMN (the airport's IATA code), you can breeze through it like a local. It’s not just a transit point; it’s the primary hub for Royal Air Maroc, connecting Africa to the rest of the world.
Navigating the Terminals without Losing Your Mind
There are two main terminals you need to care about. Terminal 1 and Terminal 2. For a long time, Terminal 1 was the "old" one, but after a massive renovation completed a few years back, it’s actually quite sleek now. It handles a significant chunk of the international traffic. Terminal 2 is generally where the national carrier, Royal Air Maroc, operates its flagship flights.
Walking between them? It’s doable. They are connected. But don't expect a high-speed tram or a moving walkway that covers every inch of the distance. You’re going to be walking. If you have a tight connection from an international flight to a domestic one (say, heading down to Dakhla or Agadir), you need to move fast. Security at Mohammed V International Airport is thorough. That’s a polite way of saying it can be slow.
One thing that catches people off guard is the "fiche d'embarquement." Or rather, the lack of it now. For years, you had to fill out a little white slip of paper before hitting passport control. They phased that out recently to speed things up, but you’ll still see old desks where people used to huddle over them with borrowed pens. Ignore the ghost of bureaucracy past and just head straight for the queue.
Transport: The Train vs. The Grand Taxi
Getting into Casablanca from the airport is where most people get "taxied." And I don't mean they get a ride; I mean they get overcharged.
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The train is the secret weapon. It’s called the Al Bidaoui. The station is located on Level -1 of Terminal 1. It runs every hour, roughly from 6:00 AM to 10:00 PM. It’ll take you straight to Casa Voyageurs (the main train hub) or Casa Port. It costs around 50 MAD (roughly 5 USD). It’s cheap. It’s reliable. It’s usually pretty clean. If your flight lands at 2:00 AM, though, the train is a no-go.
That’s when you meet the Grand Taxis.
These are usually large white Mercedes-Benz sedans or vans. They have fixed prices posted on a board outside the arrivals hall. Look at the board. Memorize the number. Currently, a trip to the city center should cost you around 300 to 350 MAD. If a driver asks for 600 MAD because it's "late" or "the traffic is bad," they are testing you. Just point at the sign. Be firm but polite.
The Royal Air Maroc Hub Experience
If you’re flying RAM, you’ll likely spend some time in their lounges. The "Le Zenith" lounge in Terminal 2 is the big one. Is it the best lounge in the world? No. Is it better than sitting at a crowded gate with three working power outlets for 200 people? Absolutely. They serve hot Moroccan food—think tagines and harira soup—which is a nice touch compared to the sad finger sandwiches you find in European hubs.
Business travelers often use CMN as a bridge to West Africa. The airport has positioned itself as the "Gateway to Africa," and you’ll see flights departing for Dakar, Abidjan, and Lagos every single day. This means the international transit area can get incredibly diverse and, frankly, quite loud and bustling at odd hours of the night.
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What Nobody Tells You About the Amenities
Let's talk about the Wi-Fi. It exists. It’s free. It’s also famously temperamental. Don’t rely on it for a high-stakes Zoom call. If you need reliable internet, there are several kiosks in the arrivals hall (Maroc Telecom, Orange, Inwi) where you can get a local SIM card for about 10 or 20 dollars that will give you enough data for your entire trip. They will even install it for you. Do this before you leave the airport. It saves so much hassle later.
Shopping is... okay. You’ve got your standard duty-free stuff—perfume, giant Toblerones, overpriced cigarettes. But if you're looking for authentic Moroccan crafts, wait until you get to the medina in the city. The "artisanal" shops in the airport are fine for a last-minute gift, but you’ll pay triple the price for a leather bag that isn't quite as nice as what you’d find in a souk.
Hungry? There are a few spots. You’ll find a McDonald’s if you’re desperate for familiarity, and a few Brioche Dorée outlets for a decent pastry. But honestly, the food options inside the secure area are somewhat limited compared to hubs like Dubai or Heathrow. Eat before you go through security if you want a full meal.
A Quick Note on Currency Exchange
The exchange rate at the airport is actually not terrible. In some countries, airport FX desks are a total rip-off, but in Morocco, they are highly regulated. You can change a small amount of cash to get you through the first day without feeling like you lost a limb in fees. Most people use the ATMs, which are plentiful. Just make sure you tell your bank you’re in Morocco so they don't freeze your card the second you try to withdraw 2,000 Dirhams.
Common Misconceptions About CMN
Many people think Mohammed V International Airport is actually in Casablanca. It isn't. It's quite a trek. If you have a four-hour layover, do not try to go see the Hassan II Mosque. You will miss your flight. Traffic in Casablanca is legendary in the worst way possible. You need at least a 7 or 8-hour layover to even consider leaving the airport grounds.
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Another myth is that it's "unsafe." Morocco is generally very safe, and the airport is heavily policed. You will see Gendarmerie Royale and police officers everywhere. This can be intimidating if you aren't used to a visible security presence, but it’s just the standard protocol here. They are usually very helpful if you have a question.
The Infrastructure Reality Check
Look, the airport is aging in some places. There are leaks when it rains heavily. Sometimes the elevators in the parking garage don't work. It’s a functional, busy, working-class airport of the world. It’s not a sparkling marble palace like some of the newer Gulf terminals. But it has character. You’ll hear five languages being spoken at once. You’ll see families reuniting with massive amounts of luggage. It’s the heartbeat of Moroccan commerce.
If you are a smoker, there are designated "glass boxes" that are usually packed. If you aren't a smoker, avoid standing anywhere near them when the doors open.
Handling the Customs and Immigration Gauntlet
When you arrive, the queue for immigration can look daunting. It can snake around the hall. Here is a pro tip: look for the lines on the far right or far left. People tend to gravitate toward the center.
The officers might ask you where you are staying. Have your hotel name or Airbnb address ready on your phone (screenshot it in case the Wi-Fi fails). They don't need a printed voucher, but they do need a specific location. "I'm staying in the Medina" isn't an answer that will satisfy them.
Once you’re through, baggage claim is usually pretty efficient. The screens tell you which belt to go to. If your bag doesn't show up, the "Litige Bagages" office is right there in the hall. They are used to dealing with this, especially on connecting flights from Europe.
Actionable Steps for a Smooth Experience
- Download the ONDA App: The Office National Des Aéroports has an app that gives real-time flight updates. It’s often more accurate than the third-party trackers.
- Book a Private Transfer if it's your first time: If you’re arriving late at night and don't want to haggle with taxi drivers, spend the extra $10 to have someone waiting with a sign. It’s a sanity-saver.
- Keep your Boarding Pass until you are outside: Sometimes there are secondary security checks or random receipt checks for high-value items at the exit. Just keep it in your pocket.
- Carry Small Change: If you use the restrooms, there is often an attendant. While they are paid by the airport, it’s customary to leave a couple of Dirhams in the tray.
- Arrive 3 Hours Early for Departures: This isn't a suggestion. Between the initial luggage scan at the entrance, the check-in line, the passport control, and the final gate security, you will need every minute of that time.
Mohammed V International Airport is a gateway to one of the most vibrant cultures on earth. It’s the threshold to the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains, and the ancient streets of Fes. Don't let the initial rush of the terminal overwhelm you. Take a breath, get your SIM card, find the train station, and welcome to Morocco.