Models with and without makeup: Why the Industry is Finally Dropping the Filter

Models with and without makeup: Why the Industry is Finally Dropping the Filter

Walk into any major photo studio in Lower Manhattan or East London and you’ll see it. It’s a bit messy. There are half-empty oat milk lattes, tangled charging cables, and models sitting in folding chairs looking... well, normal. This is the "before" state. We’ve all seen the viral side-by-side comparisons of models with and without makeup, but the reality of this transition is less about a magical transformation and more about a grueling professional process that is currently undergoing a massive cultural shift.

For decades, the industry treated the "without" part of that equation like a state secret. You weren’t supposed to see the redness around the nose or the dark circles from a 4:00 AM call time. Now? The "bare" look is the product.

The Skin Hunger for Authenticity

People are tired of being lied to. It’s that simple. When Instagram first blew up, the "Valencia" filter was the king of the hill because it blurred everything into a warm, hazy dream. But 2026 is different. We’ve entered an era where "skin texture" isn't a flaw; it's proof of life. Seeing models with and without makeup helps bridge the gap between the untouchable deity on the billboard and the human being who probably forgot to hydrate enough yesterday.

Take a look at someone like Adut Akech or Paloma Elsesser. They’ve both been vocal about the toll the industry takes on their skin. When they post a raw, unedited selfie after a month of back-to-back runway shows, it isn't just a "relatable" moment for the sake of engagement. It’s a professional statement. It says: "This is the canvas, and the art you see later is a collaboration of ten different people."

The contrast is jarring. In the "without" shots, you see the hyperpigmentation, the stray brow hairs, and the occasional hormonal breakout. Then, three hours in a chair with a makeup artist like Pat McGrath or Hung Vanngo happens. Suddenly, those "flaws" are neutralized, sculpted, and highlighted into a version of beauty that feels almost mathematical.

Why the No-Makeup Makeup Look is Actually Exhausting

There is a huge irony here. The most popular request in fashion right now is the "clean girl" or "no-makeup" look. You’d think this would make things easier for the models.

It doesn't.

In fact, achieving the "without" look while actually wearing makeup takes longer than a full glam session. I’ve talked to artists who spend forty-five minutes just on skin prep—massaging the face, using microcurrent devices, and applying thin layers of serums—before a single drop of foundation touches the skin. The goal is to make the model look like she just woke up in a villa in Tuscany, even if she actually just flew coach from Berlin.

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This creates a weird psychological loop for the consumer. When you see a "natural" photo of a model, you’re often seeing a highly engineered version of "natural."

The Peter Lindbergh Effect

We have to talk about Peter Lindbergh. He was a pioneer who basically refused to retouch his subjects. His 2017 Pirelli Calendar was a watershed moment. He photographed actresses like Helen Mirren and Julianne Moore with almost zero makeup and no post-production smoothing. He famously said that the duty of photographers today is to "release women, and finally everyone, from the tyranny of youth and perfection."

That sentiment has finally trickled down to the commercial level. Brands like Glossier and Aerie built entire empires on the back of showing models with and without makeup in their rawest forms. Aerie’s "Aerie Real" campaign, which started years ago, saw a double-digit increase in sales almost immediately after they stopped retouching their models. Turns out, seeing a stretch mark or a mole actually makes people want to buy the swimsuit. Who would've thought?

The Mental Health Component

Let's get real for a second. Constantly switching between a "perfected" version of yourself and your actual face messes with your head. Many models have spoken out about the "dysmorphia" that comes with the job. You spend ten hours being told you’re the most beautiful person in the room while wearing $5,000 worth of styling, and then you go home, wash it all off, and look in the mirror.

The "without" version can feel like a letdown.

This is why the trend of "skin neutrality" is gaining traction. It’s the idea that your skin is just an organ, not a moral reflection of your health or discipline. Seeing top-tier models with and without makeup helps deconstruct the idea that "good skin" is a constant state of being. It’s not. It’s a cycle.

The Technical Reality: Lights, Camera, Physics

Why does the makeup have to be so heavy anyway? If you’ve ever been on a professional set, you know the lights are incredibly hot and bright. They flatten the face.

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$Light Intensity = \frac{Source Strength}{Distance^2}$

This basic physics rule means that if you don't have contouring or specific highlights, the camera will wash you out completely. The makeup isn't just there to hide "ugliness"—it’s there to provide the camera with enough data to see a human shape.

Without it, under those 5k tungsten lights, even the most chiseled model can look like a thumb. So, the "without" version we see in candid shots is often the most "real" because it hasn't been flattened by the optics of a $50,000 Hasselblad camera.

Real Examples from the Front Lines

Think about the Victoria’s Secret transition. They went from the "Angel" era—which was the epitome of heavy, bombshell glam—to the "VS Collective." The imagery shifted from spray tans and heavy lashes to freckles and visible pores.

  • Bella Hadid: Has been incredibly open about her struggles with Lyme disease and how it affects her appearance. Her "without" photos often show puffiness or fatigue that the "with" photos expertly hide.
  • Chrissy Teigen: Practically made a second career out of showing her skin's "realness," including breakouts and hives.
  • Winnie Harlow: Her career is literally built on the beautiful contrast of her skin. Makeup for her isn't about hiding; it's about accentuating the vitiligo that makes her unique.

The industry used to use makeup to make everyone look like the same person. Now, they use it to make you look like a "better" version of yourself. Or, they don't use it at all.

What This Means for Your Routine

So, what do we actually do with this information? Honestly, the biggest takeaway from seeing models with and without makeup is realizing that "perfect" is a professional production. If it takes a team of four people to make someone look "effortless," you should probably stop beating yourself up for not looking like that when you're brushing your teeth at 7:00 AM.

Skin prep is actually more important than the paint. Most models swear by lymphatic drainage and crazy amounts of hydration.

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If you want to move toward a more "model-off-duty" look, start by focusing on the health of the skin barrier rather than the coverage of the concealer. Use products with ceramides and fatty acids. And for heaven's sake, wear sunscreen. Even the best makeup artist in the world can't fix sun damage in a way that looks natural in person.

The Shift in Social Media Standards

TikTok’s "Bold Glamour" filter caused a minor existential crisis for a reason. It was too good. It showed people a version of themselves that was physically impossible to achieve without surgery or a permanent glam squad. In response, we’re seeing a massive "anti-filter" movement.

The most successful creators right now are the ones who show the process. They show the acne patches. They show the redness. They show the "without" before they ever show the "with."

Actionable Steps for a Modern Aesthetic

If you're looking to embrace the "real" look while still feeling put together, here’s how the pros actually do it:

  1. Focus on the "Wet" Look: Powder is the enemy of the "without" aesthetic. Use cream blushes and liquid highlighters. They melt into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  2. The Brow Hack: Instead of filling in brows with a heavy pencil (which looks "with makeup"), use a clear gel to brush them up. It opens the eye without adding "product" weight.
  3. Spot Conceal Only: Don't do a full face of foundation. Just hit the spots that are actually red. Let your real skin breathe everywhere else. This is how you get that "model" look.
  4. Hydrate from the Inside: It sounds like a cliché because it’s true. Models drink literal gallons of water because dehydrated skin won't hold makeup properly. It just drinks the foundation and leaves the pigment looking cakey.
  5. Accept the Flux: Your skin will change based on your cycle, the weather, and your stress levels. Models have "bad" skin days too; they just have a professional to hide it.

The divide between models with and without makeup is narrowing because the world is finally realizing that the "without" is where the character lives. Perfection is boring. It’s the slight asymmetry, the faint scar, or the bridge of freckles that actually makes a face memorable.

Stop trying to hide the "without" version of yourself. The fashion world is finally moving on from the mask, and you should too. Focus on skin health, embrace the "raw" days, and remember that every "perfect" image you see is the result of a very long, very expensive day at the office.

Invest in a high-quality vitamin C serum to brighten your natural complexion. Switch your heavy foundation for a tinted moisturizer with SPF 30 or higher. Practice the "one-minute face massage" every morning to boost circulation and get that natural glow that no highlighter can truly replicate. If you're feeling bold, try going out for a full day with zero face makeup—just moisturizer and lip balm—to reset your own perception of your "normal" face.