Most people landing at Narita or Haneda have a predictable internal GPS. They turn south toward Tokyo’s neon or west toward the shrines of Kyoto. They completely ignore the north. Honestly, it’s a mistake. If you head just about 75 miles northeast of the capital, you hit Mito shi Ibaraki Japan. It’s the prefectural capital, sure, but it’s also a place that feels oddly stuck between its samurai prestige and a very quiet, modern suburban hum.
It isn't flashy. You won't find a Shibuya Crossing here. What you will find is one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan and a local obsession with fermented beans that borders on the religious.
The Kairakuen Reality Check
When people talk about Mito, they usually start and end with Kairakuen. Built in 1841 by Nariaki Tokugawa, the ninth lord of the Mito Domain, it’s technically one of Japan’s "Top Three" gardens alongside Kenrokuen in Kanazawa and Korakuen in Okayama.
But here’s what most travel blogs don't tell you: if you go in the middle of summer, it’s just a very hot, very green park.
The magic happens from mid-February to March. That is plum blossom (ume) season. While everyone else is fighting for a square inch of space under cherry blossoms in Tokyo a month later, Mito is exploding with over 3,000 plum trees of 100 different varieties. The scent is heavy and sweet. It’s different from sakura; it’s more grounded. Nariaki didn't just build this for his own pleasure. He opened it to the public—the name Kairakuen literally means "a park to be enjoyed together." That was a radical idea for a feudal lord in the 19th century.
Adjacent to the garden is the Kobuntei. It’s a three-story wooden building where Nariaki used to host poets and thinkers. The view from the top floor looking out over Senba Lake is arguably the best vista in the city. You can see the black swans drifting on the water. It’s quiet. You’ve got to take your shoes off, and the wooden floors are freezing in the winter, but the craftsmanship of the sliding doors (fusuma) is world-class.
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The Natto Obsession: More Than Just a Meme
You can't mention Mito shi Ibaraki Japan without talking about fermented soybeans. Natto is everywhere.
For the uninitiated, natto is a love-it-or-hate-it situation. It’s slimy, pungent, and has the texture of something that’s been left in a damp basement. Mito is the natto capital of the world. Legend says it was "invented" here when Minamoto no Yoshiie’s troops left boiled soybeans in straw mats, and the bacteria Bacillus subtilis did its thing.
If you want the real experience, look for "Tengu Natto." It’s the local heavyweight brand. They still sell it wrapped in traditional rice straw (wara-natto), which supposedly gives it a better flavor than the plastic styrofoam containers you see in 7-Eleven. Local restaurants get weird with it too. You’ll find natto curry, natto pasta, and even natto ice cream. I wouldn't recommend the ice cream unless you’re a completionist, but the natto tempura? That’s actually incredible. The frying process mellows the smell and creates a nutty, rich flavor that works perfectly with a cold beer.
The Tokugawa Legacy and the Kodokan
Mito wasn't just some backwater; it was one of the three branches of the Tokugawa clan. This gave the city immense political weight during the Edo period.
The Kodokan is where that intellectual weight lived. It was the largest han (domain) school in Japan. Think of it as a samurai university. They didn't just study sword fighting; they studied medicine, astronomy, and Confucianism. The "Mito School" of thought actually helped trigger the Meiji Restoration. They were the ones pushing the "Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians" ideology.
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Walking through the Kodokan today, you see the bullet holes in the gates from the Mito Rebellion in 1864. It’s a somber place. The architecture is sparse. No gold leaf. Just dark wood and tatami. It reflects the Mito spirit: "fugal and martial." Basically, they were the "no-nonsense" branch of the family.
The Modern Side: Art and the Tower
If all this talk of feudal lords feels too dusty, head over to Art Tower Mito (ATM).
You can't miss it. There’s a 100-meter tall, helix-shaped metal tower designed by Arata Isozaki. It looks like something out of a sci-fi movie, constructed from 57 triangular titanium panels. The tower celebrates the city's 100th anniversary, and it’s a weirdly bold architectural choice for a city that prides itself on tradition.
The complex includes a concert hall and a contemporary art gallery. Unlike many regional galleries that play it safe with "pretty" landscapes, ATM often hosts genuinely challenging, experimental exhibitions. It’s a hub for the local creative scene, which is surprisingly vibrant given how close Mito is to the gravitational pull of Tokyo.
Getting Around: The Logistics
Mito is easy to reach.
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Take the Limited Express Hitachi or Tokiwa from Ueno Station in Tokyo. It’s about 75 minutes. Don’t take the local Joban Line unless you want to spend two hours stopping at every tiny town in Chiba and Ibaraki. Once you arrive at Mito Station, the North Exit is where the action is.
- Senba Lake: A massive circular lake perfect for a walk or a swan boat ride.
- Mito Castle Ruins: Not much of the castle remains, but the Otemon Gate has been beautifully reconstructed.
- Ibaraki Prefectural Museum of History: Good for a deep dive, though English signage can be a bit hit-or-miss.
Why Ibaraki Gets a Bad Rep (And Why It’s Wrong)
In Japan’s annual "prefectural attractiveness" rankings, Ibaraki often comes in dead last. People in Tokyo mock it as being "dasai" (uncool) or just a land of farms and yankees (delinquents).
That’s a superficial take.
Because it isn't a primary tourist hub, the hospitality here feels genuine. It’s not a performance. When you eat at a small shokudo (diner) near the station, the owner actually wants to talk to you. The food is fresher because Ibaraki is one of Japan's top agricultural producers. The Hitachi beef is as good as any Wagyu you'll find in Kobe, but at 60% of the price.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Timing is Everything: Aim for the Plum Festival (Ume Matsuri) between mid-February and late March. If you miss that, go in August for the Mito Komon Festival, which features massive parades and fireworks.
- Stay Near the Station: The hotels around Mito Station are affordable and place you within walking distance of the Art Tower and the bus loops for Kairakuen.
- Eat the Seasonal Produce: In autumn, look for dried sweet potatoes (hoshimo). Ibaraki produces 90% of Japan’s supply. They’re chewy, naturally sweet, and addictive.
- Rent a Bike: Mito is relatively flat. Renting a bicycle near the station is the most efficient way to see Senba Lake and Kairakuen in a single afternoon.
- Check the Museum Schedule: The Tokugawa Museum houses the original Seal of the Mito Lord. It’s a small museum, but it holds genuine artifacts from the Shogunate that you won't see anywhere else.
Mito doesn't demand your attention. It’s a city that rewards those who are willing to look past the "uncool" label and spend a day walking through plum groves and old schoolhouses. It’s a slice of real, unpolished Japan.
To make the most of your trip, start at the Mito Station Tourist Information Center to grab a bilingual map. They often have updated schedules for the seasonal bus loops that connect the major historical sites. From there, head straight to Kairakuen to beat the afternoon crowds. Once you’ve had your fill of the gardens, a 15-minute walk brings you to the Art Tower for a complete shift in perspective. Cap the day off with a bowl of natto-topped ramen at a local shop before catching the express train back to the city. This itinerary gives you the perfect balance of Mito’s duality—the ancient weight of the Shogunate and the quiet, quirky energy of modern Ibaraki.