Walk through the heart of Seoul today and you’ll find a massive hole in the city.
It’s not a construction pit or a natural valley. It is a 630-acre expanse of prime real estate that was, for over a century, strictly off-limits to Koreans. For decades, if you looked at a local map, this area was often just a blank green space or a "grey zone." This is the legacy of the military base in Seoul Korea, known formally as Yongsan Garrison.
But things are getting weird. In a good way.
The barbed wire is coming down. The soldiers are mostly gone. What was once the headquarters for the most powerful military alliance in the world is slowly—painfully slowly—transforming into a massive public park. Yet, if you think the American military presence in Seoul has simply vanished overnight, you’re in for a surprise.
The Yongsan Garrison: A City Within a City
Yongsan wasn't just a "base." It was a piece of suburban America dropped into the middle of one of the densest cities on Earth. Honestly, it was surreal. You could walk past a high-tech Korean skyscraper, cross a gate, and suddenly you were looking at a Taco Bell, a 1970s-style bowling alley, and California-style bungalows.
The history here is heavy. Before the Americans arrived in 1945, the Imperial Japanese Army used this exact same spot as their headquarters during the occupation of Korea. Before them? The Qing Dynasty troops from China stayed here in the late 1800s. Basically, for the last 140 years, the literal center of Seoul has been occupied by foreign armies.
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By the mid-2000s, it became clear that having a giant foreign military hub in the middle of a global metropolis was... well, awkward. Traffic was a nightmare. Development was blocked. Plus, the North Korean artillery was aimed right at it.
So, they decided to move.
Where Did Everyone Go?
Most of the action has shifted 40 miles south to Camp Humphreys in Pyeongtaek. This move, part of the Yongsan Relocation Plan (YRP), turned Humphreys into the largest overseas U.S. military base in the world. It’s an $11 billion megabase that makes the old Seoul garrison look like a playground.
As of January 2026, the transition is nearly total. The United States Forces Korea (USFK) and the Eighth Army moved their flags years ago. But the "cleanup" in Seoul? That's the messy part.
You’ve still got the Dragon Hill Lodge. It’s this large, resort-style hotel sitting right on the edge of the old base. Even now, in early 2026, it’s still operating. You can literally book a room there if you have the right ID, and they still run "Winter Special" packages for service members and retirees. It's like a ghost of the old garrison that refuses to leave.
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The Park That Almost Wasn't
The plan for the old military base in Seoul Korea is to turn it into "Yongsan Park"—Seoul’s version of Central Park.
But it’s not just about planting trees. The South Korean government has been wrestling with some serious issues:
- Environmental Cleanup: Decades of military use left "gifts" in the soil. We’re talking about old fuel leaks and chemicals. Cleaning this up to park standards is taking much longer than anyone thought.
- Housing Pressure: In early 2026, the government started eying parts of the land for housing. Seoul’s apartment prices are insane, and some officials think building 10,000+ homes on the old base is more important than a big lawn.
- The "Dragon Hill" Problem: Because the U.S. still needs a presence in the capital for diplomacy and coordination, pieces of the base—including the hotel and some office space—are staying under American control for now.
What Can You Actually See Now?
If you're visiting Seoul and want to see the remains of the base, you can't just wander through the whole thing yet. However, the Yongsan Park Pilot Site (near Seobinggo Station) is open.
It’s fascinating. They’ve kept several of the old red-brick houses that used to belong to American officers. You can walk into the living rooms, see the old American-style kitchens, and look at photos of what life was like when thousands of families lived here. It feels like a time capsule from the Cold War.
Just outside the gates, the neighborhood of Itaewon is also changing. For years, Itaewon was the "GI town." It was where soldiers went for tailored suits and late-night kebabs. Now, it’s a global foodie hub and a nightlife district that caters more to young Koreans and digital nomads than to paratroopers.
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The Strategic Reality in 2026
Even with the move to Pyeongtaek, the U.S. military hasn't "left" Seoul. The Combined Forces Command (CFC) still maintains a footprint to coordinate with the South Korean Ministry of Defense, which is literally right next door.
There’s also a bit of tension lately. Reports from early 2026 have mentioned the deactivation of certain aviation units at Camp Humphreys (like the 5th Air Cavalry Squadron) as part of a "force transformation." This has people in Seoul nervous. Does it mean fewer troops? The Pentagon says no, but it shows that the military landscape is constantly shifting, even if the "big base" in the city is gone.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
If you want to experience the history of the military base in Seoul Korea before it’s completely gone, here is what you need to do:
- Visit the National Museum of Korea: It sits right on the edge of the old garrison. You can see the physical wall that still separates the museum grounds from the former military land.
- The War Memorial of Korea: This is a must. It’s located directly across from the old base entrance. It gives you the full context of why the Americans were there in the first place.
- Check the Yongsan Park Website: The "open" areas change constantly. Some months they offer bus tours of the interior; other months, sections are closed for "soil remediation." Always check before you take the subway out there.
- Explore the "US Post Office" Cafe: Around the perimeter of the base, several enterprising locals have opened cafes and galleries in old buildings that were once part of the base’s logistics chain.
The era of the "blank spot" in the middle of Seoul is ending. It’s moving from a place of secrets and soldiers to a place of picnics and protests. It's a slow transition, but seeing a city finally reclaim its heart after a century is something you won't see anywhere else in the world.
If you're heading that way, just remember: those old fences aren't just there for security—they're the last remnants of a history that shaped modern Asia. Catch it while you still can.