You’re walking through Savannah’s Monterey Square, shaded by those massive live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, when you see it. It looks like a cathedral. It’s got the pointed arches, the intricate stonework, and that soaring, white-stuccoed Gothic Revival energy you usually associate with 19th-century European churches. But look closer. Above the door, there’s Hebrew. This is Mickve Israel Savannah Georgia, and honestly, it’s one of the most surprising buildings in the entire South.
It’s not just "old." It’s the third-oldest Jewish congregation in the United States. But what really trips people up is the style. Most colonial-era synagogues went for Neoclassical or Moorish vibes. Mickve Israel went full-blown Neo-Gothic. It is, in fact, the only pure Gothic synagogue in North America. Why? Because the congregants in the 1870s wanted to prove they belonged. They wanted a building that matched the grand Christian architecture of Savannah.
It worked. Today, it’s a National Historic Landmark, but it's also a living, breathing Reform congregation that’s been part of the city’s fabric since basically day one.
A Perilous Arrival in 1733
Savannah was only five months old when the William and Sarah pulled into the harbor in July 1733. On board were 42 Jewish settlers. Most were Sephardic Jews of Spanish and Portuguese descent—families who had spent generations fleeing the Inquisition, moving from Portugal to London, and finally seeking a fresh start in Georgia.
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They weren't exactly "invited" by the trustees back in London. The trustees actually didn't want them there. But James Oglethorpe, the guy running the show in Georgia, had a massive problem: a yellow fever epidemic was tearing through his tiny colony.
Among the Jewish arrivals was Dr. Samuel Nunes. He was a physician who had escaped the Portuguese Inquisition by the skin of his teeth. Oglethorpe basically ignored his bosses in London and welcomed the group because he desperately needed a doctor. Nunes jumped in, saved a bunch of lives, and just like that, the Jewish community became an indispensable part of Savannah’s survival.
That Gothic Architecture: Why It Looks Like a Church
If you take a tour—which you absolutely should—the first thing you’ll notice is how "un-synagogue-like" the interior feels at first glance. Architect Henry G. Harrison designed the current building, which was consecrated in 1878.
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- The Windows: Massive stained-glass windows that bathe the sanctuary in a soft, ethereal light.
- The Arches: Pointed "Gothic" arches that draw your eyes upward, a classic hallmark of the era’s "church" style.
- The Mystery: Why use this style? At the time, Gothic Revival was the height of fashion. By choosing it, the congregation was saying, "We are part of this community."
It’s a bizarrely beautiful mashup. You’ve got the traditional "bimah" (the platform where the Torah is read) and the "Ark" (where the scrolls are kept), but they are wrapped in a shell that looks like it belongs in the English countryside.
The Museum: 15th-Century Deerskin and Presidential Letters
Upstairs is the Lawrence & Nancy Gutstein Museum. It’s small, but the stuff in there is wild.
They have two deerskin Torah scrolls that date back to the 1400s. Think about that for a second. Those scrolls survived the expulsion from Spain, the journey to London, a cramped ship across the Atlantic, and nearly 300 years of Georgia humidity. They are some of the oldest Torahs in the world that are still (occasionally) used for special services.
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Then there are the letters. Because Mickve Israel was such a prominent early congregation, they exchanged mail with the Founding Fathers. They have letters from George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and James Madison. Washington’s letter is particularly famous—it’s a big deal in American Jewish history because he basically tells the congregation that everyone in the new United States has the right to follow their own conscience in matters of religion.
Visiting Mickve Israel Today
If you’re planning a trip, don't just snap a photo of the outside and walk away. The docents here are incredible. They’re usually members of the temple and they know the gossip from 1735 like it happened yesterday.
The Logistics
Tours usually run Monday through Friday. They aren't held on Jewish or federal holidays, and they usually take a break for lunch, so check the schedule. There’s a small fee (usually around $14 for adults), but it’s worth every penny for the access to the museum and the sanctuary.
The Food Festival
If you happen to be in town in the fall, look for the "Shalom Y'all Jewish Food Festival." It’s held in Monterey Square right outside the temple. You haven't lived until you’ve eaten homemade latkes and brisket under a canopy of oak trees in a Georgia square. It draws about 10,000 people, and the vibe is basically a giant, inclusive block party.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Book Ahead: Tours can get crowded, especially during Savannah's peak tourist seasons in the spring and fall. Check their website to reserve a spot.
- Dress Respectfully: This is an active house of worship. While there isn't a strict "black tie" dress code, skip the beach-only attire.
- Look for the Details: In the sanctuary, look at the ends of the pews. The craftsmanship from the 1870s is still pristine.
- Ask About the "Circumcision Box": It’s in the museum. It’s a 15th-century artifact brought over on the original ship. It's a bit of a "wait, what?" moment for most visitors.
- Check the Calendar: If you want to experience the "Classical Reform" service (which includes a pipe organ and a soloist), try to attend a Saturday morning service at 11:00 AM. It’s a very specific, elegant style of worship that traces back to the 19th century.
Mickve Israel isn't just a building. It's the physical proof that the "American Dream" of religious freedom wasn't just a theory—it was happening on the streets of Savannah before the United States was even a country.