You’ve seen it a thousand times. That sharp, 45-degree lean, the blue pinstripes, and that crisp, blindingly white fedora. Honestly, it’s arguably the most recognizable silhouette in music history. When most people think of Michael Jackson with white hat accessories, they immediately jump to the "Smooth Criminal" short film from 1988. But there is a lot more to that hat than just a cool costume choice. It was a calculated homage to the golden age of Hollywood that almost didn't happen the way we remember it.
The Fred Astaire Connection
Michael wasn't just pulling ideas out of thin air. He was a massive student of the greats. Specifically, he was obsessed with Fred Astaire. If you go back and watch the "Girl Hunt Ballet" sequence from the 1953 film The Band Wagon, you’ll see Astaire rocking a nearly identical white suit and fedora combo. Basically, Michael took that 1930s gangster aesthetic and "Jackson-ified" it with a blue armband and those gravity-defying shoes.
It’s kinda wild to think that the fedora itself was almost a different beast entirely. During the early "Smooth Criminal" sessions, the hat actually had a multi-colored feather tucked into the black grosgrain ribbon. Michael loved it. However, the director of the short film, Colin Chilvers, felt it was way too distracting for the camera. They eventually yanked the feather for the main shoot, though you can still spot it in some behind-the-scenes footage and promotional photos from the Moonwalker era.
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What most people get wrong about the "Lean"
Everyone talks about the hat and the suit, but the hat actually played a functional role in the stage performance. Michael used the brim of his fedora to shield his eyes, creating that sense of mystery he loved. It also served as a "handle" for some of his most complex choreography.
- The hat was custom-made: These weren't off-the-rack items. Most of his iconic white fedoras were produced by the Golden Gate Hat Company.
- The secret signature: Inside the inner brim, Michael’s name was usually stamped in gold lettering.
- The material shift: Early on, his hats had silk linings, but he eventually switched to wool because the silk got too hot under the stage lights.
The white hat wasn't just for the music video, either. While the black fedora was his "Billie Jean" staple, the white one became the centerpiece of the Bad and HIStory tours whenever the bassline for "Smooth Criminal" kicked in.
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Where are the original hats now?
Finding an original Michael Jackson with white hat from the 1980s is like finding a holy grail for collectors. These things sell for insane amounts of money. Back in 2019, Kim Kardashian famously bought one of the original "Smooth Criminal" fedoras at an auction as a Christmas gift for her daughter, North West. That specific hat still had Michael’s stage makeup visible on the inner brim.
Just recently, in late 2025, another "Smooth Criminal" fedora—this one gifted by Michael to his costumier Phillip Dennis—went up for auction at Propstore with an estimate reaching up to £80,000. It’s a serious business.
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Why it still matters in 2026
The influence hasn't faded. You see artists like Bruno Mars or Justin Timberlake constantly nodding to this specific era of MJ’s style. It’s a masterclass in branding. Michael knew that if he wore a specific silhouette, he didn't even need to show his face for people to know who he was.
If you’re looking to channel this look yourself or just want to appreciate the history, here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Check the brim width: A true MJ-style fedora usually has a brim width of about 7 to 8cm. Anything smaller looks like a modern trilby, which is a totally different vibe.
- Look for the "Snap": The "snap-brim" is what allows the front to be pulled down low over the eyes while the back stays curved up.
- Authentication is key: If you're buying memorabilia, always look for the Golden Gate Hat Company markings or letters of provenance from people like Phillip Dennis or Bush and Tompkins (his long-time designers).
To really understand the impact, go back and watch the 1983 Motown 25 performance. Even though he wore a black hat there, that was the moment he realized the power of the fedora as a prop. By the time he transitioned to the white hat for the Bad era, he had perfected the art of using clothing to tell a story.