Ever looked at a photo of Brooke Shields from 1984 and just... sighed? There’s a specific kind of brow energy from that era. It wasn't about the Sharpie-esque "Instagram brow" of 2016 or the hyper-laminated "spidery" look we've seen recently. It was just... hair. Lots of it. Healthy, fluffy, and slightly chaotic hair. That is exactly what the Merit Brow 1980 Volumizing Eyebrow Pomade Gel Brown tries to bottle up.
But here is the thing.
Most people buy a tinted brow gel expecting it to be a liquid Sharpie. They want it to redraw their face. If that's what you're looking for, honestly, you're going to be disappointed with this one. Merit is the "no-makeup makeup" brand for a reason. This pomade is less of a paint and more of a thickening treatment that happens to have a very sophisticated pigment.
Why Merit Brow 1980 Volumizing Eyebrow Pomade Gel Brown Actually Works
The name "1980" isn't just a marketing gimmick. It refers to the density and texture of that decade's brow. If you’ve spent the last ten years over-plucking or just naturally have fine hairs, you know the struggle of "flat" brows. You can draw on a shape with a pencil, but from the side, it looks 2D.
Merit Brow 1980 Volumizing Eyebrow Pomade Gel Brown uses kaolin clay and mineral pigments to physically bulk up the hair shaft.
It’s a different sensation than the "glue" feel of most long-wear gels. You know that crunchy, stiff feeling where you can't move your forehead without feeling the crust? This isn't that. It uses Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) and plant-based waxes like Carnauba to keep the hair flexible. It’s a "soft-hold" pomade.
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Basically, it makes your brows look like they naturally grew in thicker this morning.
The Shade Factor: Why "Brown" is the Sweet Spot
Finding a "true" brown in the beauty world is surprisingly hard. Everything is either too red (warm) or looks like literal charcoal (cool). The Brown shade in the 1980 line is a neutral medium brown. It avoids the "ginger" undertone that plagues many brunette brow products.
I’ve seen people with light ash brown hair pull this off for a bolder look, and people with deep chocolate hair use it for a softer, everyday vibe. It’s versatile because the formula is sheerer than a traditional pomade. You aren't depositing a thick sludge of cream; you're layering a tinted veil.
The precision brush is also worth mentioning. It’s tapered. It’s small. Most "drugstore" brow gels have these massive mascara-sized wands that end up getting product all over your forehead. This one is tiny enough to hit the "tail" of the brow without a mess.
The Secret Application Trick
Katherin Power, the founder of Merit, actually has a specific way she recommends using this. Most of us start at the inner corner and brush up. Stop doing that.
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- Brush Backwards: Take the wand and brush from the tail of your brow toward your nose. I know, you'll look like a mad scientist for a second. This coats the back of the hairs, which is where the real volume lives.
- The Sweep Up: Now, brush them back into place, sweeping up and out.
- The Wait: Let it dry for 30 seconds before touching them.
Because it’s a mineral-based formula, it needs a moment to "set" without being disturbed. If you keep fussing with it while it's wet, it can't build that 80s-style volume.
What’s actually inside the tube?
We need to talk about the "Clean" aspect because people throw that word around a lot. For Merit, it means they’ve stripped out the stuff that usually makes brow gels flake or irritate the skin.
- Kaolin Clay: This is the MVP. It adds the "grit" and "grip" that makes the brows look full without needing fibers that fall into your eyes.
- Vitamin B5: This is for the hair health. It’s a humectant. It keeps the brow hairs from getting brittle.
- No Beeswax: Interestingly, they use synthetic beeswax and Carnauba. This makes it a 100% vegan formula, which isn't always a given with pomades.
Is it worth the $26?
Let’s be real—$26 for a brow gel feels like a lot when you can get a clear mascara for five bucks. But there is a nuance here. If you are a "one and done" person, this replaces your brow pencil, your brow powder, and your clear gel.
It’s for the person who has five minutes to get ready in the car. It’s for the person who hates the "heavy makeup" look but feels washed out without some definition.
However, if you have very sparse brows with actual bald spots, this gel won't fix that. It needs hair to cling to. If you're missing the tail of your brow entirely, you'll want to pair the Merit Brow 1980 Volumizing Eyebrow Pomade Gel Brown with their 1990 Microfine Pencil. The pencil creates the "skin" strokes, and the pomade creates the "hair" texture.
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Common Misconceptions and Troubleshooting
I hear a lot of people say, "It doesn't hold my hair up all day."
That’s usually because they are comparing it to a brow "glue" or a soap brow. This is a pomade gel. Its goal is volume and grooming, not vertical lamination. If your brow hairs grow straight down and are very stubborn, you might find the hold too "flexible."
Another thing: the formula is quite "wet" when you first open a new tube. If you find it’s coming out too heavy, wipe the tip of the brush on the rim of the bottle. After about two weeks of use, the air in the tube actually makes the consistency perfect.
How to make it last
To get the most out of your tube, keep it tightly sealed. Because it contains clay, it can dry out faster than a standard oil-based gel if left cracked open.
Also, if you're wearing this to the gym, it’s water-resistant, but not waterproof. It’ll survive a light sweat, but if you’re doing hot yoga, expect some movement. It’s a trade-off for how easy it is to wash off at night. You don’t have to scrub your eyes and lose three real brow hairs just to get the product off.
Ultimately, the 1980 Brow is about an aesthetic. It's about looking like you didn't try very hard, even if you did. It’s the "jeans and a white t-shirt" of the makeup world. Simple, effective, and classic.
Actionable Next Steps
- Assess your brow density: If you have hair but it’s fine or light, the Brown shade will be your best friend.
- Check your undertones: If your hair is "mousey" or neutral, this shade will look much more natural than most "warm brown" drugstore options.
- Clean your brush: Every few weeks, take a clean tissue and wipe the excess gunk off the wand. It prevents clumping and keeps the "volumizing" effect sharp.
- Layering: Try one coat for work, and once it's dry, add a second coat only to the arches for a more dramatic, "fluffy" evening look.