The corner of Prince and Mercer used to be defined by one thing: Jean-Georges. For twenty-five years, The Mercer Kitchen was the undisputed heartbeat of SoHo. It was the place where you ate tuna spring rolls while sitting at a communal table that felt like the height of 1990s industrial chic. But honestly, if you show up today looking for that specific brand of wood-fired pizza, you’re about two years too late.
The space has fundamentally shifted.
In late 2022, Jean-Georges Vongerichten packed up his whisks, ending a quarter-century residency that basically defined the "cool hotel restaurant" genre. It wasn't a failure—it was just time. Now, the subterranean lair beneath the Mercer Hotel is home to Sartiano’s. This isn't just a rebrand; it’s a total vibe shift from Mediterranean-fusion to high-stakes Modern Italian.
Why the Change at the Mercer Hotel New York Restaurant Actually Matters
When Scott Sartiano (the guy behind the ultra-exclusive Zero Bond) took over the space, people were skeptical. Replacing a legend is usually a thankless job. But instead of trying to mimic the Jean-Georges era, Sartiano leaned into a "moody Tuscan wine cellar" aesthetic designed by Studio Sofield.
Think Carrara marble, exposed brick, and leather seats that feel like they cost more than your first car.
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What’s interesting is that while the Mercer Kitchen felt like a bustling, open-concept laboratory, Sartiano’s feels like a private club that happens to let the public in. It’s darker. It’s louder. It’s arguably more "SoHo 2026" than the previous iteration, which had begun to feel a bit like a time capsule of 1998.
The Culinary Heavyweights Involved
Don't let the "clubby" atmosphere fool you into thinking the food is an afterthought. They brought in Alfred Portale. If that name doesn't ring a bell, you haven't been paying attention to New York dining for the last forty years. Portale is the three-time James Beard winner who basically invented "tall food" at Gotham Bar and Grill.
He’s the culinary director here, working alongside Executive Chef Chris Lewnes. They aren't doing revolutionary molecular gastronomy; they are doing hyper-refined Italian-American.
What to Actually Order (and What to Skip)
If you're going to drop $200 on dinner at the Mercer Hotel New York restaurant, you should probably know where the value actually lies.
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The Lobster Bucatini is the dish that ends up on every Instagram feed for a reason. It’s rich, it’s decadent, and it actually tastes like the sea, not just butter. Then there’s the Paccheri for Two, which comes with meatballs and a red sauce that tastes like someone’s nonna spent three days simmering it—if that nonna also had a Michelin star.
- The Focaccia: It’s $12. It comes with whipped ricotta and Sicilian oregano. It’s airy, it’s salty, and honestly, you’ll probably order a second round.
- The $425 Steak: Yes, there is a wagyu steak on the menu that costs more than a weekend in the Catskills. Is it good? Sure. Is it "pay your rent" good? Only if you’re trying to impress someone who carries a Birkin.
- The Cavatelli Verde: This is the sleeper hit. It uses uni butter and Jonah crab. It’s the kind of dish that makes you realize why Portale is a legend.
The Morning-After: Sartiano’s Café vs. The Lobby
The Mercer isn't just about the basement dinner scene. One thing most people miss is that the street-level "Café" is actually one of the best perches for people-watching in the city.
In the warmer months, they have outdoor seating on Prince Street. You can sit there with a coffee and a croissant and watch the chaos of SoHo. It’s the full Sartiano’s menu but without the "underground bunker" intensity.
If you're actually staying at the hotel, you get access to the Lobby. This is a separate, serene space reserved for guests. It’s bathed in natural light—a sharp contrast to the moody restaurant downstairs. You can have the same lobster bucatini delivered to your room at 2 AM, which is arguably the ultimate New York power move.
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Navigating the Hype and the Reservation Wall
Getting a table here isn't quite as impossible as getting into Zero Bond, but it’s close. If you try to walk in at 8 PM on a Friday, you’re going to be disappointed.
Pro-tip: Go for a late lunch or an early Sunday dinner. The "bridge and tunnel" crowd hasn't fully descended yet, and the service feels a bit more personal.
Honestly, the biggest misconception about the current restaurant at the Mercer is that it's just for "sceney" people. While the crowd definitely skews toward the stylish and the well-connected, the kitchen is actually putting out serious work. It’s a rare instance where the "cool" place is also a "good food" place.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Book 14 days out: That's when the prime slots usually open up on Resy.
- Dress the part: You don't need a suit, but don't show up in cargo shorts. It’s SoHo. Wear black.
- Start at the bar: The cocktails, like the "Florence + The Evolution," are excellent. The bar area has its own energy that’s worth experiencing before you sit down.
- Ask about the specials: Chef Lewnes often does blackboard specials that highlight seasonal produce (like those Jimmy Nardello peppers in late summer) which often outperform the standard menu.
Whether you're mourning the loss of the old Mercer Kitchen or you're part of the new guard, the restaurant at 99 Prince Street remains a mandatory stop in the New York culinary circuit. Just don't ask for the tuna spring rolls. They're gone.