Walk into any barbershop from Brooklyn to London and you’ll see it. That specific, sharp, geometric parting. The thick, feed-in braids that curve down the side of the head. We’re talking about men's pop smoke braids. It’s been years since Bashar Barakah Jackson—the artist known as Pop Smoke—passed away, yet his signature look hasn't faded into the "trend graveyard." It’s actually become a staple. It's the new classic. Honestly, it’s the modern-day equivalent of the Allen Iverson cornrows, but with a heavier, more aggressive silhouette that somehow works for both a red carpet and a pickup game.
The Anatomy of the Look
So, what actually makes them "Pop Smoke" braids versus just regular cornrows? It’s the symmetry. Specifically, the middle part.
Most guys go for the classic eight-braid setup. Four on each side. These aren't your thin, scalp-straining braids from the 90s. They use the feed-in method. This means the stylist adds synthetic hair (usually Kanekalon) or just very carefully layered natural hair to create a tapered effect. It starts thin at the front and gets thicker as it moves toward the back. This gives it that "weighty" look. If they’re too skinny, you’ve just got regular braids. If they're too thick, they look bulky and weird. You need that sweet spot.
The parting is everything. Usually, it's a crisp center part with horizontal sections that create a "ladder" effect down the sides. It's clean. It's precise. If your braider can't get a straight line with a rat-tail comb, just leave. Seriously.
Why They Aren't Just "Large Feed-In Braids"
Cultural context matters. Pop Smoke didn't invent the stitch braid or the feed-in, but he unified the aesthetic. Before him, men’s braids were often either very thin "straight backs" or intricate, swirling designs. Pop brought back a rugged simplicity.
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It’s about the "Woo."
When you see someone with men's pop smoke braids, there’s an immediate association with the Brooklyn Drill scene. It’s a subculture thing that went global. Dior (the song and the brand) played a role here. It's a high-low mix. You’re wearing a hairstyle born in the streets of Canarsie, but it looks expensive.
Does Face Shape Matter?
Yeah, it does. Sorta. Because the braids add volume to the sides of your head, they tend to widen the appearance of the face. If you have a very round face, you might want to ask your stylist to keep the braids tighter to the scalp or perhaps go with six braids instead of eight. For guys with oval or "diamond" face shapes, this style is basically a cheat code. It emphasizes the jawline.
The Reality of Maintenance (It's Not Low-Effort)
People tell you braids are a "protective style." They are. But "protective" doesn't mean "maintenance-free." If you think you can just get these done and forget about your hair for a month, you're going to end up with frizz and potentially some nasty scalp issues.
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- The Durag is Non-Negotiable. You have to wear a silk or satin durag every single night. No exceptions. If you sleep on a cotton pillowcase without one, the friction will pull the tiny "flyaway" hairs out of the braid. Within three days, it’ll look like you’ve had them for three weeks.
- Moisture is Key. Your scalp is exposed. It gets dry. Use a light oil—think jojoba or a peppermint tea tree blend—and run it down the "alleys" between the braids.
- Don't Overstay. Four weeks. That's the limit. Maybe six if you have a very slow hair growth cycle and you're meticulous. Any longer and the hair starts to mat at the root. You don’t want to be that guy.
The Hidden Cost: Tension and Traction
Let’s get real about hair health. Because men's pop smoke braids are thick and often use extensions for that "blunt" end look, they can be heavy. If your braider pulls too tight at the hairline (the "edges"), you’re risking traction alopecia.
It’s a real thing.
If you feel a constant headache for the first two days after getting them done, they’re too tight. Tell your stylist. It’s better to have a slightly less "crisp" look than a receding hairline by age 25. Expert braiders like Susy Oludele (who has worked with basically everyone in the industry) often emphasize that tension shouldn't be the tool for neatness; technique should be.
Choosing the Right Extensions
If you're adding hair—and most do for this look—don't just grab the cheapest pack at the beauty supply store.
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- Human Hair: Expensive, looks the most natural, but can be too "soft" to hold the rigid structure of the Pop Smoke style.
- Kanekalon: The standard. It’s synthetic, it’s stiff enough to hold the shape, and you can "seal" the ends in boiling water so they don't unravel.
- Color Matching: If you’re going for a natural look, match your hair color exactly. However, we're seeing more guys do "skunk stripes" or ombre tips—maybe a dark brown fading into a honey blonde. It’s a choice. A bold one.
Misconceptions and Errors
A common mistake? Getting them too long. Pop Smoke usually wore his at a mid-neck or shoulder length. If they’re swinging down to your mid-back, you’ve moved into a different style territory entirely. It loses that "tough" silhouette and starts looking more like a traditional feminine box braid install. Keep them blunt. Keep them relatively short.
Another error is the "taper fade" integration. A lot of guys get a low or mid-taper at the temples and the neck. This makes the braids look significantly cleaner. It separates the "hair" from the "beard" and gives the whole look a professional finish. Without the taper, the edges can look a bit "unfinished" once your natural hair starts to grow back in.
How to Talk to Your Barber or Braider
Don't just say "I want Pop Smoke braids." Show a photo. But specifically, show a photo of the parting.
Ask them:
"Can you do a feed-in style with eight braids and a clean center part?"
"I want a low taper on the sides and back."
"Don't pull the edges too tight; I'd rather have them a bit looser than lose my hairline."
Most professional braiders will charge anywhere from $80 to $150 for this, depending on the city and the complexity. It usually takes about 90 minutes to two hours. If someone says they can do it in 20 minutes, run. Quality takes time.
Actionable Next Steps for the Best Results
To ensure your men's pop smoke braids look top-tier and don't ruin your hair, follow this specific checklist:
- Prep Your Hair: Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and deep condition it the day before. Braiding dirty, oily hair is a recipe for itchiness.
- Blow-Dry Straight: If you have 4C curls, blow-drying your hair straight (using a heat protectant!) makes the braiding process much smoother and results in a neater finish.
- Buy Your Own Oil: Don't rely on whatever the shop has. Buy a bottle of Mielle Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil or Wild Growth Hair Oil. Apply it twice a week.
- Edge Control: Keep a small tub of Ebin New York 24 Hour Edge Tamer or Murray’s Edgewax handy. Use a toothbrush to lay down any frizz that pops up between appointments.
- The "V" Shape: When you're at the shop, ensure the braids at the back are directed slightly inward or downward. This creates the signature V-shape silhouette that defines the style.
- Know When to Quit: At the three-week mark, evaluate. If the braids are hanging by a thread or your scalp is irritated, take them out. Your hair's health is worth more than the $100 you spent on the style.