You're standing in front of the mirror, pulling your hair down to your collarbone and then tucking it behind your ears, wondering if "the chop" is actually a good idea. It's that awkward middle ground. Not quite a bob, definitely not mermaid hair. Most people call it the "in-between" phase, but stylists who actually know their stuff call it the sweet spot. Medium long wavy haircuts are basically the utility players of the hair world. They do everything. They work for the office, they work for a messy Saturday morning, and they definitely work for that wedding you have next month.
But here is the thing.
Most people mess this up because they treat wavy hair like it's just straight hair that got messy. It isn't. If you cut a medium-long style without accounting for the "shrinkage" of a wave, you end up with a triangle head. Nobody wants to look like a Christmas tree.
The Physics of the Wave
Let's talk about why this specific length—usually hitting between the collarbone and the shoulder blades—is so technically difficult to nail. When hair is long, the weight of the strand pulls the wave pattern down. It stretches it out. When you cut it to a medium length, you're removing that weight. Suddenly, your hair has "spring."
If your stylist doesn't understand the tension of your specific wave pattern, they might cut it perfectly while it’s wet, only for it to jump up two inches once it dries. That’s how a "medium long" cut accidentally becomes a "short lob" overnight.
Honestly, it’s all about the perimeter. A blunt cut at this length usually feels too heavy. It sits on the shoulders and flips out in weird directions. You need internal layers—not the "Rachel" layers from the 90s, but "ghost layers" that live underneath the top section of hair. These provide movement without making the ends look thin or scraggly. Experts like Chris Appleton often talk about the importance of "weight distribution." If the weight is all at the bottom, the top looks flat. If the weight is all at the top, you look like a mushroom. It’s a delicate balance.
Why Your "In-Between" Length Feels Frustrating
Medium long wavy haircuts often get a bad rap because they hit the shoulders. When hair hits the shoulders, it flips. That’s just physics. You can fight it with a flat iron for twenty minutes, or you can lean into the texture.
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Most of the frustration comes from trying to force a medium length to behave like long hair. You can't just wash and go if you have high porosity hair that soaks up moisture and then poofs out. You've gotta understand your hair's personality. Is it a 2A wave (slight S-shape, fine texture) or a 2C (thick, almost curly, prone to frizz)?
The 2C crowd usually needs more "carving" in their haircut. This involves a technique where the stylist cuts into the wave to remove bulk. Without this, the hair just occupies too much horizontal space. You want verticality. You want the waves to nestle into each other like spoons.
The Face Shape Myth
We’ve been told for decades that certain face shapes can’t wear certain lengths. It’s mostly nonsense. If you have a round face, you don't have to avoid medium lengths; you just need to ensure the waves start below the cheekbone to create an elongating effect. If you have a long face, starting the volume higher up balances things out. It’s about where the "visual weight" sits.
Real-World Examples: The "Cool Girl" Cut vs. The Professional Wave
Think about Alexa Chung. She’s basically the patron saint of the medium-long wavy look. Her hair always looks like she just rolled out of bed, but it’s actually a very calculated "shag" variation. It has a lot of texture near the eyes and cheekbones.
Then you have the more polished version—think Catherine, Princess of Wales. Her "medium long" is usually a bit longer, hitting the mid-chest, with very structured, large-barrel waves. This isn't a "natural" wave; it's a blowout.
The difference is in the ends.
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- The Shag/Wolf Cut: Distressed ends, lots of movement, looks better the messier it gets.
- The Soft Blunt: Thick, healthy-looking ends with a slight wave added for volume.
- The U-Cut: The back is longer than the sides, which prevents that "heavy" feeling when the hair is pushed forward over the shoulders.
Stop Using So Much Product
Seriously. Stop.
One of the biggest mistakes people with medium long wavy haircuts make is over-styling. They use a heavy curl cream, a mousse, and then a hairspray. By noon, the waves have collapsed under the weight of the chemicals.
If you have waves, you need "grit," not "grease." A salt spray or a lightweight volume foam is usually enough. You want the hair to feel like hair, not like a crunchy sculpture. Stylist Jen Atkin often suggests "scrunching" with a microfiber towel instead of a regular one. Regular towels have tiny loops that catch on the hair cuticle and cause frizz. Microfiber is smooth. It’s a small change, but it’s the difference between a "beach wave" and a "statue of liberty" look.
Maintenance: The 8-Week Rule
Medium length is high maintenance in a way long hair isn't. When your hair is waist-length, an extra inch of growth doesn't change the silhouette. When your hair is collarbone-length, an extra inch changes where the hair hits your shoulders. It changes how it flips.
To keep the shape of medium long wavy haircuts, you really need a trim every 8 to 10 weeks. This isn't just about split ends. It’s about "re-balancing" the weight. As it grows, the layers move down, and the volume shifts from your cheekbones to your jawline. That shift can make your face look "dragged down."
The Air-Dry Method
If you’re going to rock this length, you have to master the air-dry.
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- Apply product to soaking wet hair.
- Scrunch gently.
- DO NOT TOUCH IT. Touching your hair while it dries is the number one cause of frizz. The "cast" of the product needs to set. Once it’s 100% dry, then you can "scrunch out the crunch" to get soft, touchable waves.
The Tools You Actually Need
Forget the twenty different curling irons. You need a good diffuser attachment for your blow dryer. A diffuser spreads the airflow so it doesn't blast the wave pattern apart. It mimics the gentle process of air-drying but takes ten minutes instead of three hours.
Also, get a wide-tooth comb. Never, ever use a fine-tooth brush on wavy hair once it's dry. You'll just turn into a fluff ball.
Practical Steps for Your Next Salon Visit
When you go in for your appointment, don't just say "medium long wavy haircut." That's too vague.
Bring a photo, but specifically point out the ends. Tell the stylist, "I like how the ends look shattered," or "I want the ends to look thick and blunt." Use the word "internal layers" if you want volume without seeing obvious "steps" in your hair.
Ask them to "dry cut" the final shape. Since wavy hair looks so different wet versus dry, a dry cut allows the stylist to see exactly where each wave sits. It’s like sculpting. They can see that one stubborn piece on the left that always curls tighter than the rest and adjust for it.
Actionable Maintenance Routine
- Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates strip the natural oils that wavy hair desperately needs to stay clumped together.
- Use a silk pillowcase. Cotton absorbs moisture and creates friction. Silk lets your waves slide around without fraying.
- The "Pineapple" Method: If you're sleeping on your waves, pile them loosely on top of your head with a silk scrunchie. This keeps the pattern from getting crushed while you toss and turn.
- Deep condition once a week. Wavy hair is naturally drier than straight hair because the scalp oils have a harder time traveling down the "S" shape of the strand.
Medium long wavy haircuts are about intentionality. They aren't a "default" style; they are a choice to embrace texture while keeping the versatility of length. You can still put it in a ponytail, but it looks a hell of a lot more interesting when it's down. Keep the moisture up, keep the weight balanced, and stop touching it while it dries. Your waves will thank you.