You’re standing on the shore of Harstine Island, looking across a narrow strip of water at a lush, green tuft of land. It’s right there. Maybe two hundred yards. You could swim it, but the water in Case Inlet is bone-chillingly cold even in July. So, you wait. You wait for the moon to pull the Puget Sound away, revealing a secret bridge of sand and crushed oyster shells. This is the only way into Mcmicken Island State Park. It’s a place that doesn't care about your schedule.
If you don't time it right, you're stuck.
Most people heading to the South Sound stick to the big names like Twanoh or Potlatch. Those places are great if you like crowds and paved parking lots. But Mcmicken? It’s different. It’s a 11.5-acre marine park that feels like a private kingdom, provided you’re willing to hike a bit and get your boots muddy.
The Tombolo: Nature’s Disappearing Sidewalk
The most famous thing about Mcmicken Island State Park is the tombolo. That’s a fancy geological term for a sandbar that connects an island to the mainland (or in this case, a larger island).
Here’s the deal: the tombolo only emerges during low tide.
Honestly, it’s a bit of a gamble if you haven’t checked a NOAA tide table. You want a tide lower than about six feet to cross comfortably without soaking your pants. When the tide drops, the water peels back to reveal a rocky, shell-strewn path. It’s not a manicured walkway. It’s raw. You’ll see eagles perched on the driftwood and maybe a few nervous herons wondering why you’re invading their space.
Walking across feels like a heist. You’re sneaking onto an island that was underwater just a few hours ago. But remember, the clock is ticking. The Puget Sound is relentless. Once that tide starts coming back in, that bridge disappears fast. I've seen people have to wade back through waist-deep water because they spent too long looking for agates. Don't be that person.
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What’s Actually Over There?
Once you scramble off the tombolo and onto the island itself, the vibe changes. It’s quiet. Deeply quiet.
The park is mostly Douglas fir, western red cedar, and madrone trees with that peeling red bark that looks like sunburned skin. There are about two miles of hiking trails looping through the interior. They aren't rigorous. You aren't climbing Everest here. It’s more of a wandering path through a coastal forest that feels remarkably untouched.
There are no residents. No cars. No buzzing refrigerators. Just the sound of the wind in the salt-sprayed branches and the occasional splash of a harbor seal offshore.
Why Boaters Love It
While hikers have to time the tides, boaters have it a bit easier. There are five mooring buoys on the western side of the island. It’s a premier spot for "stern-tie" camping. If you’ve got a kayak or a small skiff, this is heaven. You can pull right up to the cove, drop an anchor, and have a picnic on a beach that feels a thousand miles from Seattle or Tacoma.
- Mooring Buoys: First-come, first-served. You have to pay the daily mooring fee, usually through the automated kiosks or the Dipsea app if you've got signal.
- Sheltered Water: The cove stays relatively calm, protected from the heavier chops of the main inlet.
- Shellfish: This is a big one. Mcmicken is known for its shellfish.
The Clamming and Oyster Situation
Let’s talk about dinner. Mcmicken Island State Park is a goldmine for Manila clams, littlenecks, and oysters. But you can't just go out there and start shoveling.
Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) is strict. You need a license. You also need to check the "Red Tide" or biotoxin status before you even think about eating a mollusk. The Washington State Department of Health keeps a real-time map of beach closures. Sometimes, the water looks pristine, but it’s carrying levels of paralytic shellfish poisoning (PSP) that will put you in the hospital.
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If the beach is open? It’s incredible. You’ll find Pacific oysters clinging to the rocks and clams buried just a few inches under the gravelly sand. There’s something primal and deeply satisfying about foraging your own meal from a state park beach. Just bring a gauge—if the clam is too small, put it back. Let it grow.
The Logistics: Getting There Isn't Simple
You can’t just GPS "Mcmicken Island" and drive onto a pier.
To get there by foot, you have to drive to Harstine Island. You’ll cross the bridge at the north end of the island and wind your way down toward Harstine Island State Park. There’s a parking lot there. From the lot, you’ve got a hike ahead of you. It’s about a half-mile down to the beach, and then you have to trek along the shoreline to reach the tombolo.
It’s roughly a 2-mile round trip if you just go to the island and back, but factor in the terrain. Walking on loose barnacle-covered rocks is slower than walking on a sidewalk. It’s a workout for your ankles.
- Parking: You need a Discover Pass. Don’t risk it without one; the rangers in the South Sound are active.
- Facilities: There are composting toilets on the island, but that’s about it. No running water. No trash cans. Pack out every single thing you pack in.
- Pets: Keep them on a leash. The local wildlife—especially the nesting birds—doesn't appreciate your labradoodle chasing them.
Is It Worth the Hassle?
Honestly, if you want a playground and a concession stand, go somewhere else. Mcmicken is for the people who like the "edges" of the map. It’s for the person who finds beauty in a rusted-out piece of beach machinery or the way the fog clings to the water at 7:00 AM.
It’s a place of transition. The island is constantly being reshaped by the currents. The driftwood piles change with every winter storm. It’s a reminder that the Pacific Northwest isn't just mountains and coffee; it’s this weird, salty, tidal world where the land and sea are constantly fighting for space.
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The view from the top of the island looking back toward the Olympic Mountains on a clear day is staggering. You see the peaks rising up over the water, still capped in snow while you’re standing in the sun surrounded by oyster shells. It’s a perspective you just don’t get from the highway.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
Don't just wing it. A trip to Mcmicken requires a bit of "mission planning" if you want to actually enjoy yourself.
First, go to the NOAA Tides and Currents website. Search for the "Arcadia, Totten Inlet" or "Shelton" stations to get a rough idea, but Harstine Island specific charts are better. Look for a "minus tide" or anything under 5 feet. If the low tide is at 1:00 PM, aim to be at the tombolo by 11:30 AM. This gives you plenty of time to explore and get back before the water starts nipping at your heels.
Second, wear the right shoes. Flip-flops are a death wish on those barnacles. They are razor-sharp. Wear sturdy hiking boots or, even better, those heavy-duty rubber Muck boots.
Third, bring water. There is zero potable water on the island. Even if you're only planning to stay for an hour, the salt air and the hike will dehydrate you faster than you think.
Finally, check the weather. The South Sound creates its own microclimates. It can be sunny in Olympia and dumping rain on Harstine. A light windbreaker is usually a smart move because the breeze coming off the inlet is always a few degrees cooler than the air in the woods.
Pack a camera, keep an eye on the horizon, and respect the tide. Mcmicken Island is a rare slice of the Puget Sound that still feels like it belongs to the wilderness rather than the suburbs.