Most people stop at three strands. It’s the standard. It’s what we learned on our dolls or our siblings when we were six. But the moment you try to figure out how to do a four piece braid, things get weird. Your fingers tangle. You lose track of which strand is "strand three." Suddenly, what was supposed to be a thick, 3D masterpiece looks like a knotted mess of yarn. Honestly, it’s frustrating.
Braiding isn't just about utility; it’s geometry. When you add that fourth strand, you aren’t just adding bulk. You’re changing the structural integrity of the hair. Think of a standard braid as a flat weave. A four-strand braid? That’s more like a rope or a woven basket. It’s got dimension. It’s got weight. If you've ever wondered why some Pinterest hairstyles look so much more "expensive" than others, this is usually the secret. It looks complicated because our brains are hardwired for the symmetry of threes. Breaking that habit takes a bit of a mental shift.
The Secret Geometry of the Four Strand Braid
The biggest mistake? Treating it like a three-strand braid with a "spare" piece. It doesn't work that way. In a classic three-strand, you’re just crossing over the middle. In a four-strand, you’re weaving. It’s an "over-under" pattern.
Professional stylists like Kristin Ess or the team at Jen Atkin’s Mane Addicts often talk about tension. That’s the real killer. If you pull too hard on the outer strands, the braid twists. If you’re too loose, the middle gaps. You want it firm but flexible. Real talk: your first five attempts will probably look like a DNA helix gone wrong. That’s okay.
Getting the Grip Right
Before you even move a single hair, you have to hold it correctly. If you don't have a plan for your fingers, you’ll drop a strand by step four. I usually recommend holding two strands in each hand. Use your pinkies. Seriously. Your pinky fingers are the unsung heroes of complex braiding. They anchor the outside pieces while your index fingers and thumbs do the heavy lifting in the middle.
How to Do a Four Piece Braid Without Losing Your Mind
Let's get into the actual mechanics. You’ve got your four sections. Let’s call them 1, 2, 3, and 4, starting from the left.
- Take strand 1 (the far left).
- Cross it over strand 2.
- Now, take that same strand and go under strand 3.
- Finally, take that same strand and go over strand 4.
Wait. Re-read that. You aren't just swapping sides. You are weaving that first strand across the other three like a needle through fabric. Once it reaches the far right, it becomes the new "strand 4." Then you start over from the left again. Or, if you want a more rounded, 3D look (often called a 3D round braid), you work from the outside into the middle.
🔗 Read more: Finding the Right Word That Starts With AJ for Games and Everyday Writing
There are actually two main ways to do this. The "flat" method creates a wide, ribbon-like effect that looks incredible on thick hair. The "round" method is what you see on high-end leather lanyards or heavy-duty nautical ropes. Both are technically four-piece braids, but they serve different vibes.
Why Your Hair Texture Matters
If you have "slippery" hair—the kind that’s freshly washed and feels like silk—stop. Go get some dry shampoo or a texturizing spray. Or just wait until day two. Clean hair is the enemy of the four-strand braid. You need "grip."
In the world of professional hair competition (yes, that’s a real thing, look up the OMC Hairworld), stylists often use "fillers" or slightly damp sections to keep the tension uniform. For us mortals, a little bit of sea salt spray or even just a light dusting of hairspray before you start will keep those strands from sliding out of your hands.
Flat vs. 3D: Choosing Your Style
Most people want the flat version because it shows off highlights beautifully. Because the strands are woven rather than twisted, you see more surface area of the hair. This is why it’s a favorite for "boho" bridal looks. You can "pancake" it.
Pancaking is when you gently tug at the edges of the braid once it's finished to make it look twice as thick. With a three-strand braid, pancaking can make it look messy. With a four-strand, it makes it look like a masterpiece.
The 3D version is different. It’s denser. It’s great for athletes or anyone who needs their hair to stay put for twelve hours. It doesn't lay flat against the head; it stands out. If you're working with hair extensions, the 3D four-strand is the best way to hide the tracks or the points of attachment because the weave is so tight and multi-directional.
💡 You might also like: Is there actually a legal age to stay home alone? What parents need to know
Common Pitfalls and How to Fix Them
- The "Hole" in the Middle: This happens when you aren't crossing the middle two strands correctly. Remember, the "over-under" pattern must be consistent.
- The Tapering Tail: Hair is naturally thinner at the ends. When you divide into four, those strands get very thin, very fast. The fix? Don't divide the hair into four equal parts. Make the two middle strands slightly thinner than the outer two. As you braid, the hair naturally redistributes.
- The Wrist Ache: This is real. Keep your hands close to the head. The further out you pull, the more leverage you're fighting against.
Real-World Applications and Variations
It's not just for ponytails. Once you master the basic rhythm of how to do a four piece braid, you can start incorporating it into more complex styles.
The Accent Braid
Take a small section from near your temple. Do a tight four-strand weave and pin it back. It adds a level of detail that a standard braid just can't match. It looks intentional.
The Four-Strand Dutch Braid
This is the "boss level" version. You’re doing the four-strand weave, but you’re adding hair as you go, and you’re weaving underneath to make the braid sit on top of the head. It’s chunky, it’s bold, and it’s basically a workout for your forearms.
Professional Insight: The "Ribbon" Technique
If you want to practice without getting frustrated by your own hair, use different colored ribbons. Tie four ribbons to a chair or a clipboard. Use four different colors. This is how cosmetology students at schools like the Aveda Institute often start. When you can see that "Blue goes over Red, under Green, over Yellow," the muscle memory develops much faster. Once your hands know the dance, move to hair.
Maintenance: Making It Last
You’ve spent twenty minutes wrestling with your hair. You want it to last.
Don't just use a standard elastic. Those thin, clear plastic bands are better because they don't add bulk to the bottom of an already intricate braid. If you have dark hair, use black bands. If you're blonde, use clear.
📖 Related: The Long Haired Russian Cat Explained: Why the Siberian is Basically a Living Legend
And for the love of all things stylish, don't use a scrunchie to finish a four-strand braid. It’s like putting a bumper sticker on a Ferrari. You want the focus on the weave.
Does it work for all hair types?
Honestly, no. If you have very short layers, a four-piece braid is going to be a nightmare. The "tails" of the layers will poke out at every turn of the weave, making it look like a prickly pear. This style is best for medium-to-long hair with minimal layers. If you do have layers, use a light pomade (like the Ouai Matte Pomade) on your fingertips as you braid. This "glues" the flyaways into the main strands as you work.
Curly hair actually takes to this style quite well because the natural texture provides built-in grip. You won't need as much product, but you will need to be careful not to create frizz by over-handling the hair.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Attempt
Forget trying to do this in front of a mirror the first time. Mirrors flip everything. It’s confusing. Instead, try braiding a friend’s hair or even a piece of rope.
Start by practicing the "Over-Under-Over" rhythm. Say it out loud. It sounds silly, but it works.
- Prep the hair: Use a light texturizer or day-old hair.
- Divide and Conquer: Four equal sections. Hold two in each hand.
- The Left-Hand Lead: Always start with the far-left strand. Move it across the other three in a weave pattern.
- Secure the Base: Keep your hands close to the scalp to prevent sagging.
- Finish Strong: Use a clear elastic and a light mist of flexible-hold hairspray.
Don't get discouraged if the first few inches look great and then it falls apart. Braiding is a mechanical skill. It's about hand strength and pattern recognition. Most people fail because they try to rush the rhythm. Slow down. Focus on each individual cross.
If you're still struggling, try the "center-cross" method where you focus only on the middle two strands, but for most, the "left-to-right" weave is the most intuitive way to learn how to do a four piece braid. Give yourself thirty minutes, get a good comb, and stop worrying about perfection on the first try. You’re basically weaving a rug on your head. It’s supposed to be a bit of a challenge. Once you nail it, though, every other hairstyle will feel like a breeze.