You’re driving down Southern Boulevard in West Palm Beach, past the usual Florida strip malls and sun-faded signage, when you see it. From the street, it looks exactly like Berto’s Bait & Tackle, a local fixture that spent 50 years selling frozen shrimp and cold six-packs to fishermen. The weathered facade is still there. The coastal grit remains. But if you know which door to pull, you aren't getting a bucket of worms.
You’re stepping into a fever dream.
Mary Lou's Palm Beach is the newest "if you know, you know" haunt for the set that finds the traditional Palm Beach gala scene a little too stuffy. It is a cocktail lounge, a supper club, and a performance space wrapped in a speakeasy shell. Honestly, it feels like someone took a Slim Aarons photograph, dunked it in a bottle of expensive gin, and set it loose in a Parisian nightclub from 1972.
The Myth of Mary Lou
The place isn't just a random name. It's an homage. The venue is named after Mary Lou Curtis, a legendary West Palm fashion icon and the grandmother of co-founder Alex Melillo. This wasn't a "grandma" in the rocking chair sense. She was the force behind La Shack, a boutique that dressed icons like Jackie O and Betty White.
She lived by a simple rule: "Always have a sense of ridiculousness."
When Melillo teamed up with Joe Cervasio and Topher Grubb to build this spot, they didn't want another minimalist "white box" restaurant. They wanted the decadence of the 70s and 80s back. They wanted velvet. They wanted mischief.
Inside the "Garden of Earthly Delights"
Once you bypass the bait shop entryway, the interior hits you like a sensory overload. Designed by Volenec Studio, the room is anchored by a massive mural. It’s a reimagined version of Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights, but localized. Look closely and you’ll spot a pelican, a frog, and a duck—five core "brand characters" woven into a hedonistic landscape.
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It's dark. It's sexy.
There are massive velvet booths that swallow you whole. A custom chandelier by Fitzhugh Karol hangs center stage. And because this is Palm Beach (well, the edge of it), there’s a massive disco ball because, why not?
What Are We Eating? (It’s Weird, and It Works)
The menu at Mary Lou's Palm Beach doesn't follow the rules of a standard three-course dinner. It’s "light fare," but "light" is a relative term when you’re talking about A5 Wagyu.
Kinda surprisingly, the most talked-about item is the A5 Wagyu Big Mac. It’s exactly what it sounds like—high-end Japanese beef given the fast-food treatment with pickles and fries. It costs $50. Is it ridiculous? Yes. Is it the point? Absolutely.
The "Bites" menu includes:
- Altima Caviar: Served with house-made Doritos or fried chicken bites. Because pairing $100 fish eggs with a corn chip is the ultimate power move.
- Maple Pork Belly Skewers: Glazed with mustard seeds and pickled red onion.
- Wagyu Uni Toast: A5 Wagyu topped with sea urchin, salmon roe, and more caviar.
- Umberto’s Famous Grandma Pizza: A direct nod to the iconic Umberto’s of Long Island.
The Drinks: A Martini Time Machine
If you’re a cocktail nerd, the martini menu is basically a history lesson. It starts in 1896 with a classic Dry Gin Martini and moves through time.
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The standout for the late-night crowd is the "Espress Yourself." It’s an Espresso Martini reimagined with Okinawa sugar and salted milk ice. It’s rich, salty, and designed to keep you awake for the entertainment, which is where things get even more interesting.
The Sonic Experience: The Chainsmokers and Sofi Tukker
Most lounges have a DJ in the corner playing generic deep house. Mary Lou's went a different route. They brought on The Chainsmokers and Sofi Tukker as Creative Entertainment Directors.
They aren't just names on a press release. They actually helped refine the acoustics and curate the weekly talent. On any given night, you might find a soulful jazz singer like Goldie Heart, followed by a DJ set that turns the entire room into a dance floor by 11 PM.
There are also "performers." We aren't talking about a magician. Think contortionists and dancers that weave through the tables, making the whole evening feel more like a private party at a billionaire's estate than a Tuesday night dinner.
The "Attitude" and the Reality
Let’s be real for a second. If you read the reviews, there’s a divide. Some people love the exclusivity; others find the door policy a bit much. The hostess has been described as "pretentious" in more than one Google review.
But here’s the thing: Mary Lou's is tiny. It’s a "inner sanctum" vibe. If you show up on a Saturday night without a reservation, you aren't getting in. Period.
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It’s located at 250 Southern Blvd, which, as some locals point out, is "across the bridge" from the actual island of Palm Beach. Does that matter? Not to the people inside. The crowd is a mix of New York transplants, influencers in leopard print, and the younger generation of PB old-money families looking for something that isn't a country club.
Practical Tips for Getting In
If you actually want to experience Mary Lou's Palm Beach without the headache, here is how you do it:
- Book the 6 PM slot. If you want to actually eat and see the art before it gets crowded and loud, go early. You might even get a few minutes of peace before the "scene" arrives.
- Dress the part. The dress code is "Black Tie Surrealism" or at least "Palm Beach Chic." This isn't the place for flip-flops or cargo shorts. If you look like you belong in a Slim Aarons photo, you’re fine.
- Order the "Olive Avenue." It’s their take on a dirty martini and it is consistently cited as the best drink on the menu.
- Expect a high bill. Between the $20 cocktails and the $50 sliders, this is a $100+ per person venture before you even get to the caviar.
Is It Worth the Hype?
Mary Lou's Palm Beach succeeded in doing something difficult: it made West Palm Beach feel "cool" to the people who usually only stay on Worth Avenue. It honors the history of the neighborhood (the Bait & Tackle shop) while injecting a massive dose of New York energy.
Whether you love the "frivolous fun" or hate the "faux fancy" vibe, you can’t deny it’s the most interesting thing to happen to the Southern Boulevard corridor in years.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Check the Calendar: Look at their official site for specific "themed" nights; the entertainment changes frequently based on who the directors are booking.
- Reserve Early: Since they are only open Wednesday through Saturday (6 PM to 2 AM), slots fill up weeks in advance during the high season.
- Plan Your Transport: Valet is available, but the area is high-traffic. An Uber is generally smarter if you plan on working your way through that martini timeline.