Palm Springs is weirdly obsessed with its own ghost stories. Not the spooky kind, but the architectural ones. If you pull up to the corner of North Indian Canyon Drive and East Vista Chino today, you'll see the bright turquoise accents and "island vibe" branding of Margaritaville. But honestly? Most locals and desert die-hards still just call it the Riviera. It’s a hard habit to break. The Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs wasn't just a hotel; it was the epicenter of the Rat Pack era, a sprawling mid-century labyrinth where Dean Martin probably spilled a martini or two.
It's actually kind of funny. You have this massive 16-acre property that underwent a total identity shift in 2020, yet the bones of the original 1958 design are so iconic they refuse to be buried under the "5 o'clock somewhere" branding.
The Rat Pack DNA of the Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs
When Irwin Schuman opened the place in the late fifties, it was revolutionary. Before the Riviera, Palm Springs was mostly a collection of small boutique inns and private estates. This was the first "big" resort. It had that wagon-wheel layout that felt futuristic at the time. You've got to remember that back then, if you were a celebrity, you weren't staying at a Hilton. You were staying at the Riviera.
Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., and Elvis Presley weren't just names on a guest book; they were the vibe. The Grand Ballroom—which is still a massive space—hosted legendary performances that defined the "Cool School" era of California history.
But hotels age. Especially in the desert sun.
The property went through a massive $70 million renovation back in 2008. That was the Noble House Hotels & Resorts era. They tried to lean hard into the "glam" factor. Think dark velvets, crystal chandeliers, and a lot of purple. It was moody. It was theatrical. It felt like a stage set for a movie that hadn't been filmed yet. This version of the Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs won awards, but it also felt a little bit disconnected from the breezy, effortless desert heat. It was almost too cool for its own good.
What Happened During the Margaritaville Transition?
Basically, the world changed in 2020. The resort was sold and rebranded as the first Margaritaville on the West Coast.
People flipped out.
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Purists thought the mid-century modern soul of the building would be ripped out in favor of plastic parrots and neon signs. It’s a valid concern! Palm Springs treats its architecture like a religion. However, if you actually walk the grounds now, the transition is more of a "tropical-lite" overlay than a total demolition. They kept the deep-seated history of the buildings but traded the dark, moody interiors for light woods and white linens.
The St. Somewhere Spa vs. The Old Riviera Spa
The spa was always a major draw. Under the old Riviera banner, it was one of the largest in the valley. Now, it’s the St. Somewhere Spa.
It's still huge. 18 treatment rooms.
They kept the blue-tile aesthetic but simplified the menu. It went from high-concept clinical treatments to "relax, you’re on vacation" mode. Is it as "luxurious" as the old version? That’s debatable. Some miss the high-fashion feel of the 2000s era, but most families visiting now prefer the less-intimidating atmosphere.
The Layout Is Still a Maze (In a Good Way)
One thing that hasn't changed is the sprawling nature of the place. Because it was built on that spoke-and-wheel design, finding your room can feel like a scavenger hunt.
You’ll walk past the main pool—the 5 o'Clock Somewhere Pool—which is the heart of the property. It’s loud. There’s music. There are frozen drinks. If you want the classic Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs quietude, you have to head to the Lone Palm Pool. It’s tucked away, surrounded by those classic 1950s-style balconies, and it feels much more like the old-school desert escape.
The rooms themselves are surprisingly large. That’s the benefit of 1950s construction; they weren't trying to cram people into tiny boxes yet. Even with the new decor, the ceiling heights and the floor-to-ceiling windows remind you that you're in a historic landmark.
Eating and Drinking: From Steaks to Tacos
The dining scene shifted too. The old Circa 59 restaurant was all about fine dining and "see and be seen" energy.
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Now? You have JWB Grill and Come Monday Café.
- JWB Grill: This is where you get the better cuts of meat and seafood. It's more upscale but you can still wear flip-flops.
- License to Chill Bar: It’s exactly what it sounds like. High-top tables, lots of people watching, and a view of the lobby.
Honestly, the food is fine. It's resort food. It’s not trying to win a James Beard award, but it hits the spot after a day in 110-degree heat. If you’re looking for the high-end culinary experience the Riviera used to be known for, you might find yourself heading downtown to places like Workshop Kitchen + Bar or Mr. Lyons instead.
Why the Location Still Wins
Even with the name change, the location is unbeatable. You’re at the gateway to the Uptown Design District.
- Walking distance: You can stroll to some of the best vintage shops in the world.
- The Mountain Backdrop: The San Jacinto mountains feel like they are literally leaning over the pool.
- Accessibility: It’s one of the first resorts you hit when driving in from LA, meaning you aren't stuck in "towel-head" traffic deeper in the valley.
The Reality Check: Is It Still a "Spa" Destination?
This is where things get nuanced. The Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs was once a destination for people who wanted a "lifestyle" experience. It was about the scene.
Margaritaville is about the brand.
If you go in expecting the ghost of Frank Sinatra to hand you a scotch, you’ll be disappointed. But if you go in realizing that this is a meticulously maintained piece of 1950s history that has been softened for a broader audience, it’s actually a great stay. It's less "exclusive" now, which makes it much more approachable for families and groups of friends who just want a big pool and a reliable bed.
A Few Insider Tips for Your Visit
Don't just stay in the room. The grounds are where the history is.
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Look at the brickwork. Look at the way the buildings are angled to catch the breeze—this was "green" architecture before that was even a term. The original architects, Wexler & Harrison, were geniuses at desert cooling.
Also, check the event calendar. Even though it's a Margaritaville, they still host some of the bigger Modernism Week events. This is when the old "Riviera" soul really comes out to play. You’ll see people in period-accurate 1960s outfits walking the same halls where the Rat Pack used to roam. It's a surreal overlap of two very different worlds.
Moving Beyond the Branding
Whether you call it the Riviera Resort & Spa Palm Springs or Margaritaville, the property remains a cornerstone of the desert. It’s survived bankruptcies, multiple renovations, and a total shift in American vacation culture.
It’s resilient.
The "Riviera" is a state of mind here. It represents the era when Palm Springs was the playground for the Hollywood elite. While the signage has changed, the spirit of that playground is still there, hidden in the shadows of the palm trees and the geometry of the pools.
Actionable Steps for Your Palm Springs Trip
- Book the Lone Palm Pool Side: If you want the classic Riviera feel, request a room near the second, quieter pool. It’s significantly more "old Palm Springs."
- Explore Uptown: Walk three blocks south to the Design District. Hit up The Shag Store or Trina Turk to get the actual aesthetic of the city.
- Check the History: Spend ten minutes in the lobby looking at the old photos. They usually keep a few nods to the property’s 1958 origins tucked away near the ballroom entrance.
- Hydrate: It’s a dry heat. People forget this every single year. Drink twice as much water as you think you need before hitting the License to Chill bar.
Go for the history, stay for the pool, and don't feel bad if you accidentally call it the Riviera. Everyone else does too.