Honestly, if you've spent more than five minutes on "Curly YouTube," you’ve seen her. Mell Guido—better known as the powerhouse behind Manes by Mell—has basically become the internet’s favorite curly hair big sister. She’s loud, she’s funny, and she’s a licensed hairstylist who actually understands the science of a cuticle. But while her product reviews are gold, it’s the Manes by Mell haircut techniques that have sent the DIY community into a literal frenzy.
Specifically, we need to talk about those pigtails.
You’ve seen the thumbnails. Someone stands in their bathroom, scissors in hand, hair tied into two high ponytails like a deranged toddler, and then... snip. It looks like a recipe for a hair disaster, yet thousands of people swear by it. But before you go hacking away at your precious ringlets, there’s a lot of nuance you’re probably missing. This isn't just "cutting your hair in pigtails." It’s a calculated approach to volume and shape that works—if you don't mess up the elevation.
The Science Behind the Manes by Mell Pigtail Cut
Most DIY haircuts fail because people cut their hair while it’s flat against their back. This creates what stylists call a "shelf"—a blunt, heavy line at the bottom that makes curly hair look like a literal triangle. Mell’s approach, particularly the pigtail haircut method, is designed to combat the dreaded "triangle head" by using over-direction.
By pulling the hair into specific pigtail placements, you are essentially "stretching" the distance the hair has to travel to the scissors. When the hair falls back down, those top layers have traveled further, meaning they are cut shorter than the bottom layers. The result? Instant, built-in internal layers and a rounded shape.
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Why Pigtail Placement is Everything
It isn't a one-size-fits-all situation. Where you tie those elastics determines the entire silhouette of your head.
- High and Forward: This creates a lot of face-framing and shorter layers on top. Great for volume, risky if you have a loose wave pattern that might "bounce up" too much.
- Lower and Towards the Back: This preserves more length but gives less lift at the roots.
The big mistake? Most people don't account for their tension. If you pull one pigtail tighter than the other, you’re going to wake up with a lopsided head. It’s that simple.
Dry Cutting vs. Wet Cutting: The Great Debate
One of the most controversial parts of the Manes by Mell haircut philosophy is her stance on dry cutting. If you’ve ever had a DevaCut, you know the "one curl at a time" dry method is considered the holy grail. Mell, however, brings a more traditional salon perspective to the table.
She often advocates for a hybrid approach or even cutting on damp, product-free hair. Why? Because while dry cutting shows you the immediate "spring" of a curl, it can lead to unevenness if your curl pattern varies across your head—which, let's be real, almost everyone's does.
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"Dry cutting is great for seeing the shape, but wet cutting allows for precision and technical balance." — This is the core of the Mell Guido philosophy.
She isn't afraid of the "wet cut" because she understands shrinkage. If you know your hair shrinks by 30%, you cut 30% less. It’s math, not magic.
How the Manes by Mell Approach Differs from DevaCut or Rëzo
If you're trying to decide between a $200 salon visit and a DIY session inspired by Mell, you have to understand the technical differences.
- The DevaCut focuses on the individual curl. It’s very "sculptural." It's great if you only wear your hair curly. If you ever want to blow it out straight? It’ll look like a choppy mess.
- The Rëzo Cut (created by Nubia Suarez) is all about maintaining length while creating a circular "halo" of volume. It uses a lot of circular sectioning.
- The Manes by Mell Method is more "functional." It’s rooted in classic Vidal Sassoon-style geometry but adapted for texture. It’s designed so the hair looks good curly and looks decent if you decide to straighten it. It focuses on the "weight distribution" of the hair rather than just the individual ringlet.
Common DIY Disasters (and How to Avoid Them)
Look, I’ve seen the "I ruined my hair" videos. Usually, it’s not the method’s fault—it’s the tools.
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If you are using kitchen scissors to perform a Manes by Mell haircut, stop. Right now. Kitchen shears are dull. They don't slice the hair; they crush it. This leads to immediate split ends, meaning your "fresh cut" will look frizzy and dead within a week. You need professional-grade shears. Even a $20 pair from a beauty supply store is better than the ones you use to open packages.
Another huge fail? Cutting too much at once. The "spring back" is real. Curls are like springs; you remove the weight, and they jump up. Mell always stresses cutting less than you think you need to. You can always go back and snip more, but you can’t glue the hair back on.
What to Ask a Stylist if You Want the "Mell Look"
Maybe you aren't brave enough to do it yourself. That's probably smart. But if you walk into a random salon and ask for a "Manes by Mell haircut," the stylist might just blink at you. Instead, use the technical language she uses:
- Ask for "Internal Layering": This removes bulk from the "middle" of the hair without making the ends look thin and "see-through."
- Mention "Over-direction": Tell them you want volume on top and are okay with shorter layers around the face to create a rounded silhouette.
- Request a "Weight Removal" check: This is where the stylist goes in after the main cut to see where the curls are "clumping" too heavily and thins them out slightly (not with thinning shears, but with point cutting).
Actionable Steps for Your Next Haircut
If you're ready to try the Manes by Mell approach, don't just jump in. Start with a "micro-trim."
- Audit your tools. Get actual hair shears and a fine-tooth comb for sectioning.
- Wash and clarify first. You want to see your natural, product-free bounce. Product can weigh curls down and give you a false sense of length.
- Section like a pro. Use the pigtail method if you want easy layers, but ensure the elastics are perfectly symmetrical. Use a mirror—or two.
- Check the "elevation." Are you pulling the pigtails straight out? Up? Down? For the classic Mell volume, you want to pull them slightly up and forward.
- Point cut, don't blunt cut. Never cut straight across. Snip into the hair at an angle. This keeps the ends soft and helps curls "nest" into each other rather than stacking like bricks.
The reality is that Mell Guido hasn't just invented a "pigtail cut"—she’s demystified professional salon techniques for the average person. Whether you do it yourself or use her tips to talk to a professional, the goal is the same: moving away from "managing" curls and toward actually "shaping" them. Start small, respect the shrinkage, and for the love of all things holy, put down the kitchen scissors.