If you’re looking for white-glove service and a marble lobby where people whisper in hushed tones, honestly, just stop reading now. You’ll hate it here. Mama Shelter Paris East isn’t trying to be the Ritz, and it definitely isn't trying to be "chic" in that tired, old-school Parisian way. It’s loud. It’s dark. There are chalkboard ceilings and plastic superhero masks hanging over the beds. It’s basically the hotel version of that one friend who always knows where the best dive bar is but also happens to have a really great eye for interior design.
Located at 109 Rue de Bagnolet, this place basically kickstarted the "cool kid" migration to the 20th arrondissement back in 2008. Before Philippe Starck and the Trigano family (the geniuses behind Club Med) planted their flag here, tourists wouldn't dream of trekking this far east. Now? It’s the heartbeat of a neighborhood that feels like real Paris—no berets, no overpriced macarons, just graffiti, great coffee, and the Père Lachaise Cemetery right down the street.
The Vibe Check at Mama Shelter Paris East
Most hotels treat the lobby as a transition space. You check in, you leave. Here, the lobby is the destination. It’s a massive, dimly lit playground where locals from the 20th come to drink pastis and eat pizza next to travelers who look like they work in graphic design. The lighting is low—like, "I can’t see my passport" low—but it works.
The design is chaotic in the best way possible. You’ve got long communal tables that encourage you to actually talk to the person next to you. Shocking, I know. There’s a giant foosball table that usually has a line of people waiting to play. The ceiling is covered in chalk doodles and quotes that look like they were written at 3:00 AM after a few too many glasses of Bordeaux. It’s gritty. It’s textured. It feels alive.
Rooms that actually make sense
Don’t expect a palace. The rooms are small. Some might even call them "cozy," which is hotel-speak for "don't bring three suitcases." But they are incredibly smart. Everything you actually need is there, and everything you don't is gone.
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- The Bed: It’s huge. It’s white. It’s the kind of bed you sink into and never want to leave. Honestly, the linens are better than some five-star spots I’ve stayed at.
- The Tech: You get a big iMac in the room that doubles as your TV and your computer. It’s loaded with free movies (yes, even the "adult" kind, because this is France, after all).
- The Masks: This is the Mama Shelter signature. There are plastic masks—Batman, Superman, Darth Vader—placed over the bedside lamps. Why? Because they want you to take weird selfies and not take life so seriously. It’s a weird flex, but it works.
The bathrooms are tucked away behind mirrors and concrete. They give you Mama Skin products, which actually smell good and won't leave your hair feeling like straw. It’s all very "industrial chic," which is a term that gets thrown around a lot, but here it feels authentic because the building itself used to be a parking garage.
Eating and Drinking in the 20th
Let's talk about the food. Usually, hotel food is a desperate last resort. At Mama Shelter Paris East, the restaurant is the main event. The menu is a mix of French comfort food and international stuff that actually tastes like someone in the kitchen cares.
The "Coquillettes" (elbow pasta with ham and truffle) is a cult favorite. It’s basically the fancy French version of Mac and Cheese. Is it healthy? No. Is it worth the calories? Absolutely. They also do a solid brunch on Sundays that attracts half the neighborhood. It’s a buffet situation, but don't think "Sizzler." Think mountains of fresh pastries, artisanal cheeses, and roasted meats that make you want to cancel your flight home.
The Rooftop (The Secret Weapon)
If you visit during the summer, the rooftop is where you’ll spend 90% of your time. It’s not open year-round because, well, Paris weather is moody, but when it’s open, it’s magic. You’ve got views over the rooftops of the 20th, ping-pong tables, and a bar that serves drinks in plastic cups so you don't break anything while you're dancing. It’s one of the few places in Paris where you can find a rooftop vibe that doesn't feel pretentious. You can wear sneakers. You can laugh loudly. No one cares.
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Is the Location Actually Good?
This is the big question. If you want to walk out of your hotel and see the Eiffel Tower, you are in the wrong place. You’ll be taking the Metro. A lot.
The nearest stations are Alexandre Dumas (Line 2) and Gambetta (Line 3). It’ll take you about 20-25 minutes to get to the center of the city. But here’s the thing: you aren’t staying here to be near the Louvre. You’re staying here to see the other Paris.
You’re a ten-minute walk from Père Lachaise. Go visit Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde. Then, wander down to Rue des Vignoles to see the tiny hidden courtyards that look like they haven't changed in a hundred years. The 20th is the last bastion of working-class Paris that hasn't been completely sanitized by tourism. It’s rough around the edges, there’s plenty of street art, and the bars are half the price of the ones in Saint-Germain.
Acknowledging the trade-offs
Look, it’s not perfect. If you have mobility issues, the dim lighting and crowded spaces might be a nightmare. The elevators are small and slow. Sometimes the music in the lobby stays loud well into the night, so if you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room on a higher floor. It’s a social hotel. If you’re an introvert who wants total silence, you might find the constant "energy" a bit exhausting.
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Why People Keep Coming Back
Despite the rise of competitors like The Hoxton or CitizenM, Mama Shelter Paris East still holds its own. Why? Because it has a soul. It doesn’t feel like a corporate chain, even though it’s now part of the Accor empire. There’s a quirkiness here that feels genuine.
It’s also surprisingly affordable. In a city where a damp closet can cost you €300 a night, Mama usually stays in a price bracket that doesn't require a second mortgage. You’re getting a high-design experience for a mid-range price. That’s a rare find in Paris.
Actionable Steps for Your Stay
- Book the "Medium" Room: The "Small" is okay if you’re solo and staying for one night, but if there are two of you, pay the extra €20 for a Medium. Your sanity will thank you.
- Download the "Citymapper" App: Google Maps is fine, but Citymapper handles the Paris Metro and bus system way better. You'll need it to navigate back from the center at night.
- Eat at Mama, but Explore Bagnolet: Have one dinner at the hotel for the vibe, but then check out Le Trio or Les Mondes Bohèmes nearby. They are local gems.
- Visit the Flèche d'Or: This legendary concert venue is right across the street in a former railway station. Check their schedule; they often have queer nights, indie concerts, and community events that are pure 20th arrondissement.
- Skip the Hotel Breakfast Once: Walk five minutes to a local boulangerie, grab a croissant for €1.20, and eat it while walking through the cemetery. It’s the most Parisian thing you can do.
Staying at Mama Shelter Paris East is a choice to see the city through a different lens. It’s less about monuments and more about moments. It’s about the guy playing the accordion on the Metro, the smell of fresh bread from the bakery on the corner, and the realization that Paris is a living, breathing, messy city—not just a museum. If you can handle a little grit and a lot of personality, you’ll probably love it.