You’re walking through Quidi Vidi, the wind is probably whipping off the Atlantic because it almost always is, and you see this low-slung, white wooden house. It looks like it’s been there forever. Honestly, that’s because it has. If you’re heading to St. John’s, Newfoundland, you’ve likely heard someone mention Mallard Cottage. It’s not just a restaurant; it’s a National Historic Site that happens to serve some of the best cod cheeks you’ll ever eat.
Most people think of it as just a fancy spot for a Sunday brunch. But there is a lot more to the story of this building than just the chalkboard menu.
The Weird History of Mallard Cottage St John's
The house dates back to the early 1800s—likely between 1820 and 1840—making it one of the oldest residential structures in North America. It was built by the Mallards, a family of Irish immigrants who were fisherfolk and farmers. They lived there for generations. Like, 150 years.
Back then, Quidi Vidi was a separate world from downtown St. John’s. It was a rugged, isolated fishing "outport" even though it’s only a few minutes' drive from the city center today. The architecture is what experts call "Irish vernacular." Basically, it was modeled after the thatched-roof cottages the family left behind in Ireland, just adapted for the brutal Newfoundland winters with heavy timber and a central chimney to keep the heat in.
When the Mallard family finally sold it in the 1980s, the place didn't even have running water or electricity. Imagine that. Living in the middle of a city’s history without a flushing toilet until the late 20th century.
A woman named Peg Magnone bought it and turned it into an antique shop. She’s the reason the bones of the building stayed intact. She preserved the massive walk-in hearth and the low ceilings that give the place its "hobbit house" vibe. It wasn't until 2011 that Todd Perrin—you might recognize him from Top Chef Canada—teamed up with Kim Doyle and Stephen Lee to turn it into the culinary landmark it is now.
Why the Food is Actually Different Here
Let’s talk about the "Newfoundland Food" thing. Most tourists come looking for Jiggs’ dinner or fish and chips. You can get those anywhere. Mallard Cottage St John's does something a bit more interesting.
The menu is literally written on a chalkboard. It changes every single day based on what the fisherman brought in or what’s growing in their garden. It’s "hyper-local," but not in a pretentious way. It’s more of a "we found some moose, so we’re cooking moose today" kind of vibe.
- The Cod Cheeks: If they are on the board, order them. They’re usually cornmeal-dusted and fried until they’re light and crispy.
- The Sunday Brunch: This is the big one. They do a dessert table that is frankly ridiculous. Scones, bourbon cream puffs, and house-made doughnuts. It’s the kind of meal where you need a nap immediately afterward.
- The Game Meat: Todd Perrin is known for butchering his own meat. You’ll see things like seal, venison, or wild boar on the menu depending on the season.
One thing that surprises people? The price. It’s not cheap. You’re paying for the heritage, the sourcing, and the fact that you’re eating in a 200-year-old living room. Expect to spend a bit, but honestly, the atmosphere usually makes it feel worth it.
The Quidi Vidi Vibe
You can’t talk about the cottage without talking about the "Gut." That’s what locals call the harbor area of Quidi Vidi. It’s incredibly photogenic. Think colorful stages (the little fishing sheds on stilts), steep cliffs, and the Quidi Vidi Brewery right down the street.
A lot of people make the mistake of just driving there, eating, and leaving. Don’t do that.
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Walk the Sugarloaf Trail part of the East Coast Trail before your meal. It starts right nearby. You’ll get your heart rate up, see some whales if it’s June or July, and then you’ll actually feel like you earned that massive brunch.
Also, if you’re staying overnight, they opened The Inn by Mallard Cottage right across the street. They look like traditional saltbox houses but the inside is super modern. Think high-end quilts and heated floors. It’s a nice contrast to the old-world feel of the restaurant.
What Most People Get Wrong
People often show up expecting a formal fine-dining experience. It isn't that. It’s loud. There’s often live traditional music on Sunday afternoons. The tables are close together. You might be sitting next to a local fisherman or a billionaire who flew in on a private jet.
It’s a "kitchen party" atmosphere.
Another tip: Book way in advance. Like, weeks. Especially for brunch. This isn't a place where you can just wander in at noon on a Sunday and expect a table. The dining room only seats about 65 people. It fills up fast.
Logistics and Practical Tips
If you're planning a visit, keep these few things in mind to avoid the usual headaches:
- Parking is a nightmare. Quidi Vidi was built for horse carriages and fishing boats, not SUVs. If you can, take a cab or a rideshare from downtown St. John's. If you must drive, be prepared to park a bit of a walk away and hoof it in.
- Check the Chalkboard. Because the menu changes daily, don't get your heart set on a specific dish you saw on Instagram from three months ago. Go with an open mind.
- Dietary Restrictions. They are pretty good with allergies, but because the menu is so small and curated, vegans might find the options a bit limited compared to a standard city restaurant. It’s a very meat-and-seafood-heavy spot.
- The Beer Garden. In the summer, they have an outdoor area. It's great for a more casual drink and a snack if you couldn't snag a full dinner reservation.
Making the Most of Your Trip
To truly experience Mallard Cottage, try to time your visit with the "off-peak" hours if you want a quieter vibe, or lean into the chaos of Sunday afternoon if you want the full Newfoundland experience. If you’re visiting in the winter, the village is incredibly quiet and peaceful, which makes the warmth of the cottage fireplace feel even better.
When you finish your meal, take a walk down to the wharf. Look at the boats. You'll see the names of the families who have been fishing these waters for centuries. It puts the meal in perspective. You aren't just eating food; you're participating in a very long, very resilient history of people making a living on the edge of the North Atlantic.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Check the current "Chalkboard" teasers on their official social media pages to see what’s in season before you book.
- Secure a reservation at least 3-4 weeks out if you're aiming for a weekend.
- Pack layers. Even in the summer, the breeze in Quidi Vidi can be chilly once the sun dips behind the cliffs.