Long hair twists braids are heavy. There, I said it. If you’ve ever sat in a chair for seven hours only to feel like someone is literally trying to pull your brain out through your scalp the next morning, you know the struggle is real. It’s a love-hate relationship. We love the length, the swinging movement, and the fact that we don't have to touch a comb for six weeks. But we hate the tension, the frizz, and that weird itchy spot right in the middle of the crown that no amount of oil seems to reach.
Most people treat twists like a "set it and forget it" situation. Big mistake.
If you want your hair to actually grow while it’s tucked away, you have to understand the mechanics of what’s happening at the root. It isn't just about the aesthetic. It’s about weight distribution and moisture retention.
The tension trap in long hair twists braids
When you opt for long hair twists braids, you’re adding significant weight to your natural follicles. Think about it. If your natural hair is six inches long and you’re adding twenty-four inches of synthetic Kanekalon or Marley hair, your roots are suddenly lifting four times their usual load. This is where "traction alopecia" stops being a scary term in a textbook and starts being a visible reality at your hairline.
I’ve seen people lose their edges over a single bad install.
The secret isn't just "not braiding too tight." It’s about the sectioning. If the base of the twist is too small for the length of the extension, that tiny square of natural hair is doomed. It’s going to snap. Expert braiders like Felicia Leatherwood have often pointed out that the health of the hair under the style is the only thing that matters. You want a 1:1 ratio. The weight of the added hair should be supported by an equal mass of your own hair.
Don't let a stylist tell you it "has to be tight to look neat." That’s a lie. Neatness comes from clean parting and product control, not from strangling your nerves.
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Why Marley vs. Kanekalon matters more than you think
Marley hair is coarser. It mimics natural Type 4 textures. Because it’s kinky, it grips itself, which means the twist stays together without needing a rubber band at the bottom. Kanekalon is smoother, shinier, and way more slippery. If you’re doing long hair twists braids with Kanekalon, they’re going to be heavier because the hair is denser.
Also, the "itch."
Most synthetic hair is coated in an alkaline acid to make it heat-resistant. That’s why your scalp gets red and bumpy. A simple apple cider vinegar soak for the braiding hair—before it ever touches your head—neutralizes that acid. Just soak the bundles in a sink of warm water and a cup of ACV for 20 minutes. You’ll see a white film lift off. That’s the stuff that causes the "braid itch."
Keeping the "Long" in long hair twists braids
Let’s talk about the six-week mark. This is usually when things start looking raggedy. The roots have grown out about half an inch, there’s a halo of frizz, and you’re tempted to just pull them all out in a fit of frustration.
Stop.
Wash your hair. Yes, while it’s in twists.
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A lot of people think washing long hair twists braids ruins them. It doesn't. It actually helps the natural hair underneath stay hydrated so it doesn't snap when you finally take the twists down. The trick is focus. You aren't scrubbing the length of the twists—you're scrubbing the scalp. Use a diluted shampoo in a spray bottle. Spray it directly onto the parts, massage gently with the pads of your fingers (never the nails), and rinse.
Dry them completely. This is the part people mess up. If you leave the core of those twists damp, they will smell. It’s mildew. It’s gross. Use a hooded dryer or a blow dryer on a cool setting. It takes forever. Bring a book.
The nighttime routine you're probably skipping
If you’re sleeping on a cotton pillowcase with long hair twists braids, you’re basically sandpapering your hair all night. Cotton absorbs moisture. It sucks the oils right out of your strands. Use a silk or satin bonnet, but since these twists are long, a standard bonnet usually won't fit. Get a "loc soc" or a long satin tube scarf.
It keeps the ends from tangling and prevents the weight of the braids from pulling on your edges while you toss and turn.
Real talk about the take-down
The take-down is where the most damage happens. You’re tired. You’ve had them in for two months. You just want them out. You start snipping the ends and pulling.
This is how you end up with a "bob" you didn't ask for.
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Always cut at least four inches below where you think your natural hair ends. Use a slippery detangler or even just plain coconut oil as you unravel. When you see those little white bulbs at the root, don't panic. That isn't your hair falling out in clumps. It’s just the natural daily shed (about 100 hairs a day) that has been trapped in the twist for weeks.
But you have to detangle that shed hair before you add water. If you jump in the shower immediately after taking out long hair twists braids, that shed hair will mat into a bird’s nest. You’ll be looking at a pair of scissors within twenty minutes.
Common misconceptions
- "Twists are better than braids for growth." Not necessarily. Twists can actually put more stress on the hair if they’re too heavy because they don't distribute weight as evenly as a three-strand braid.
- "You don't need to moisturize." Your hair is still there. It’s alive. It needs water. Use a light leave-in spray every few days.
- "Edge control is a daily requirement." Constant edge control buildup leads to clogged pores. Give your hairline a break.
How to actually get your money's worth
If you're spending $200 to $400 on a professional install, you want it to look fresh. Honestly, the best way to revive old twists is a "perimeter refresh."
About four weeks in, go back to your stylist or do it yourself: take out the front two rows and the back row. Re-twist just those. It takes an hour but makes the entire style look brand new. It’s the oldest trick in the book. It also gives you a chance to deep clean the most visible parts of your scalp.
Long hair twists braids are a commitment. They’re a vibe, sure, but they’re also a responsibility. If you treat your scalp like an afterthought, your hair will respond in kind.
Actionable steps for your next install:
- The ACV Soak: Never install synthetic hair straight out of the pack. Soak it in 1 part Apple Cider Vinegar to 3 parts water to remove the alkaline coating.
- Scalp Mapping: Ask your stylist for larger sections at the nape and the temples. These areas are the most prone to breakage.
- Weight Management: If the twists feel heavy enough to give you a headache after the first 24 hours, they are too heavy. Remove a few from the center to lighten the load.
- Water is Friend: Use a rosewater and glycerin spray twice a week. It penetrates the twist and keeps the natural hair supple.
- The Pre-Wash Detangle: When taking them down, use a wide-tooth comb on the roots while dry. Never, ever wet the hair until the shed buildup is combed out.
- Rest Periods: Always give your hair at least two weeks of "breathable" time between installs. Your follicles need to recover from the constant tension of the weight.