You've probably heard the terms used interchangeably at the gym, the grocery store, or on TikTok. Someone sees a person with matted coils of hair and says, "I love your dreads." Another person corrects them: "Actually, these are locs." It feels like a semantic argument, right? Like saying "soda" versus "pop."
But it isn't. Not really.
💡 You might also like: Shopping at the Dollar Tree West Hills: What You Actually Need to Know
If you're wondering what is the difference between locs and dreads, the answer lies in a messy, beautiful mix of history, intent, and cultural identity. It's about how the hair is started, how it’s perceived by the world, and—perhaps most importantly—how the person wearing the hair feels about the journey.
Honestly, the "difference" is often in the eye of the beholder, but the technical and cultural distinctions are massive once you dig in.
The Weight of a Word: Why "Dread" Matters
Language is heavy. To understand why some people cringe at the word "dreadlocks," you have to look back at the colonial history of the Caribbean.
During the 19th century, British soldiers encountering Kenyan freedom fighters or Rastafarian elders in Jamaica found their hair "dreadful." They weren't using the word as a compliment. They meant it was frightening, unkempt, or savage. It was a term born out of a lack of understanding.
Over time, many in the Rastafarian movement reclaimed the word. For them, "dread" became a sign of the "dread of God" or a "fearful" power against oppression. It was a badge of rebellion. However, for a modern person who spends $400 at a salon to get perfectly manicured cylinders of hair, the "dreadful" connotation feels misplaced.
They aren't dreading anything. They are cultivating.
That’s why you’ll find many Black people specifically prefer the term "locs." It strips away the colonial baggage. It describes the physical state of the hair—locked—without the historical "dread" attached. If you walk into a high-end natural hair salon in Atlanta or Brooklyn and ask for "dreadlocks," your loctician might gently correct you. It's a matter of respect for the craft.
How They Start: Intentionality vs. Spontaneity
This is where the technical side of the difference between locs and dreads comes into play.
✨ Don't miss: How to Remove Artificial Nails Without Ruining Your Natural Ones
Dreads are often associated with the "neglect" method. Imagine just... stopping. You stop combing. You stop brushing. You let the hair do what it wants. Over months and years, the hair mats together into organic, irregular shapes. This is "freeform." It's beautiful in its raw state, but it’s unpredictable. You might have one giant "congo" (two or more locs fused together) on the left and a skinny one on the right.
Locs, in the modern sense, are a project.
There is a roadmap. A loctician uses precise parting—squares, diamonds, or triangles—to ensure the hair grows in a uniform pattern. They might use:
- Finger coils: Small spirals of hair that eventually mat.
- Two-strand twists: A common starter method for thicker hair.
- Interlocking: Using a tool to pull the hair through itself, great for people who sweat a lot or have active lifestyles.
- The Crochet Method: Using a tiny needle to fuse hairs instantly.
When you see someone with "sisterlocks"—those tiny, thread-like locs that look like strands of yarn—that is a highly technical, trademarked process. It's not "dreads" in the traditional sense. It's a calculated hair architecture.
The Stigma and the Corporate World
We have to talk about the "professional" factor. It sucks, but it’s real.
For decades, "dreadlocks" were used as a reason to fire people or kick kids out of school. The term was associated with being "unclean" or "unprofessional." In 2016, a U.S. Court of Appeals even ruled that employers could ban dreadlocks as part of a grooming policy because hair isn't an "immutable characteristic."
The shift toward the term "locs" has been partly a defensive move in the professional sphere. By presenting the style as "locs"—neat, manicured, and maintained—the community has fought to have the style recognized as a legitimate, professional choice.
👉 See also: Where to Recertify Propane Tanks: What Most People Get Wrong
The CROWN Act (Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) has been a game-changer here. It’s a law in many U.S. states that prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles. When people talk about the difference between locs and dreads in a legal context, they are usually talking about the right to wear their hair in its natural, locked state without being penalized for it.
Maintenance: It’s Not "Lazy" Hair
One of the biggest myths is that locs or dreads are for people who don't want to do their hair.
Total lie.
If you want healthy locs, you’re looking at a serious routine. You have to "palm roll" the new growth to keep the shape. You have to deep clean them to prevent "build-up"—which is when lint or product gets trapped inside the loc. Because locs are like sponges. They soak up everything.
If you use the wrong wax or heavy creams, your locs will literally hold onto that gunk for years. Experienced locticians like Chimere Faulk, who created the Dr. Locs line, emphasize that "less is more." You need light oils and water-based products.
Contrast that with "freeform dreads." While they require less "shaping," you still have to keep the scalp healthy. You still have to wash them. The idea that people with this hair don't wash it is a weird, persistent myth that needs to die. In fact, washing actually helps the hair lock faster because the friction of the water and drying causes the cuticles to tangle.
Cultural Appropriation vs. Appreciation
Here’s the part that gets people heated. Can anyone wear them?
Historically, locked hair has appeared in many cultures. The ancient Greeks had them. Ancient Indians (Sadhu) have worn "Jata" for centuries. Vikings likely had matted hair. However, in a modern Western context, the style is deeply tied to Black identity and the African Diaspora.
When a non-Black person wears "dreadlocks," it’s often viewed through the lens of the "neglect" method. Because of the difference in hair texture—straight or wavy hair doesn't "lock" the same way coily hair does—it often requires backcombing and crochet hooks to force the hair to stay together.
The "difference" here becomes political. For a Black person, locs can be a way to embrace their natural texture in a world that tells them to straighten it. For a non-Black person, it’s often seen as an aesthetic choice that doesn't carry the same weight of systemic struggle.
The Journey: Maturity and Patience
Whether you call them locs or dreads, you can’t skip the "ugly phase." Or, as the community prefers to call it, the "starter phase."
Your hair will look crazy for a few months. It will be fuzzy. It will stand up at weird angles. It will refuse to stay in the parts your stylist made. This is the "budding" stage. It’s a test of ego.
Most people quit here. They think they’re doing it wrong. But the hair has to expand before it shrinks and tightens. It’s a literal transformation of the hair fiber.
Quick Reality Check on the Differences
- Locs: Usually implies a systematic approach, clean parts, and regular maintenance (re-twisting). It’s a "look" and a lifestyle choice.
- Dreads: Can refer to the more organic, freeform, or "neglect" method. Often carries heavier historical and counter-culture connotations.
- Maintenance: Locs require palm-rolling or interlocking every 4–8 weeks. Dreads might just need a good wash and scalp oiling.
- The Vibe: Locs are often seen as "manicured." Dreads are often seen as "natural/rebellious."
Actionable Steps for Your Hair Journey
If you're sitting on the fence, trying to decide which path to take, don't just jump in. Your hair texture dictates 90% of the outcome.
First, identify your hair type. If you have Type 4 hair (coily), your hair will lock easily and hold the shape of "locs" very well. If you have Type 2 or 3 (wavy/curly), you might find the "dread" path or the crochet method more effective because your hair will naturally try to slip out of coils or twists.
Second, find a professional. Even if you want "dreads," a consultation with a loctician can save you from scalp issues like traction alopecia. If you pull the hair too tight at the root, you will lose it. Permanent hair loss isn't worth a style.
Third, think about your lifestyle. Do you swim every day? Interlocking is better for you. Do you want that "perfect" look? Go for Sisterlocks or traditional palm-rolled locs. Do you want to just let go and see what happens? Go freeform.
Ultimately, the difference between locs and dreads is about how you choose to tell your story. One isn't "better" than the other. They are different branches of the same ancient tree. Respect the history, understand the terminology, and most importantly, take care of your scalp.
Buy a silk or satin bonnet. Seriously. Whether you call them locs or dreads, lint is the enemy. Protect your hair at night, and it’ll stay looking like the crown it is for years to come.