So, you want to clear 33s or 35s on a unibody SUV. It sounds simple until you’re staring at a CV axle that’s angled like a bent elbow and a dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.
The lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee is a weird beast in the off-road world. Unlike the Wrangler, which is basically a Lego set for adults, the Grand Cherokee (whether it's a ZJ, WJ, WK, or the newer WL) requires a bit more finesse. You aren't just bolting metal to a frame. You’re messing with a complex independent front suspension (IFS) or a specific unibody geometry that wasn’t exactly designed to live six inches higher in the air.
Most people buy a cheap spacer kit, slap it on, and then wonder why their steering feels like they're trying to guide a boat through a bathtub. It’s because the geometry matters more than the ground clearance. Honestly, if you don't get the track bar or the control arm angles right, you’re basically just driving a safety hazard that looks cool in a driveway.
The Reality of Lifting an IFS vs. Solid Axle Grand Cherokee
Jeep flipped the script on the Grand Cherokee several times. If you have an older ZJ (1993-1998) or WJ (1999-2004), you’ve got solid axles front and rear. These are the "golden era" for many purists because lifting them is relatively straightforward. You get longer springs, longer shocks, and adjustable control arms to keep the axles centered. Simple. Sorta.
But then came the WK (2005-2010) and everything after. Jeep moved to Independent Front Suspension. When you lift a lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee with IFS, you are physically pushing the lower control arm down. This narrows the track width and puts immense stress on the CV boots. If you go over two inches without a "drop kit" or specialized upper control arms (UCAs), you’re going to tear a boot within a month. I’ve seen it happen on the trail more times than I can count.
Why the WJ "Death Wobble" is Still a Thing
The WJ is notorious. You’re driving 55 mph, hit a pothole, and suddenly the steering wheel is trying to break your wrists. This isn't a myth; it's a harmonic resonance issue. When you lift a WJ, the factory rubber bushings in the track bar usually can't handle the new lateral loads. You need a heavy-duty, adjustable track bar from someone like Iron Rock Offroad or Kevin’s Offroad. Don't just "check" the bushings. Replace them. Using a steering stabilizer to fix a wobble is like putting a Band-Aid on a broken leg. It just masks the problem until the tie rod end snaps.
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The Hidden Costs Nobody Talks About
Everyone budgets for the lift kit. Nobody budgets for the "other" stuff.
Take the driveshaft, for example. On a WK2 (2011-2021), the angles are pretty tight. If you go with a 2.5-inch lift, you might be fine. But if you're pushing for more, that Rzeppa joint—the constant velocity joint at the end of the shaft—is going to overheat and spit out its grease. Replacing that with a high-angle Tom Wood’s driveshaft isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than being stranded in the woods with a rig that won't move.
Then there is the tire weight. Moving from a stock 29-inch tire to a 33-inch tire adds significant rotational mass. Your brakes were designed to stop a specific amount of weight. Now, you’re asking them to stop a much heavier, spinning circle. You’ll feel the "brake fade" almost immediately. Upgrading to slotted rotors or better pads isn't just a "nice to have" once you've gone big.
The Quarda-Lift Problem
If your Jeep has the factory air suspension (Quadra-Lift), you are in a different world of pain. These systems are great for the mall, but they are a nightmare to lift. You can get "sensor links" that trick the computer into thinking the Jeep is lower than it is, which forces the air bags to pump up more. But here is the catch: you’re riding on maximum air pressure. It is stiff. It is bouncy. It has zero down-travel. If you really want a lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee that can actually crawl, most experts recommend swapping the air system out for a traditional coil-over conversion from a company like Rocky Road Outfitters. It’s a lot of work, but it’s the only way to get real performance.
Choosing Your Build: From Budget to "Long Arm"
Let’s be real—not everyone needs a $4,000 long-arm kit. But understanding the tiers of lifting will save you from buying the same parts twice.
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- Budget Boosts: Usually just polyurethane spacers that sit on top of your factory springs. They give you the look for about $200. Great for clearing slightly larger tires for a "beach cruiser" vibe, but they do nothing for off-road articulation. In fact, they can make your ride harsher because they often pre-compress the spring slightly or limit your shock travel.
- Short Arm Kits: These replace the factory springs and shocks. Brands like Old Man Emu (OME) are the gold standard here. OME doesn't focus on "height"; they focus on load carrying. If you have a heavy steel bumper and a winch, these are the only way to keep the front end from sagging.
- Long Arm Kits: This is the deep end of the pool. You're cutting off factory brackets and welding new ones further back on the "frame" (unibody). This allows the control arms to stay nearly horizontal. Why does that matter? When you hit a bump, the axle moves up and down instead of crashing forward and back. It makes a lifted Jeep ride better than a stock one. It’s transformative.
Real World Examples: The 3-Inch Rule
I talked to a guy last year who tried to put 35s on a WK2 with just a leveling kit. He ended up having to use a "pinch weld mod," which involves taking a sledgehammer to the metal behind the wheel well and folding it over. It’s a common practice in the Grand Cherokee community, but it’s not for the faint of heart.
If you want to stay "safe" and avoid major surgery, 3 inches of lift is the tipping point.
Anything under 3 inches is usually manageable with bolt-on parts. Once you cross that 3-inch line, you're looking at extended brake lines, new sway bar end links, drop pitman arms (on older models), and potentially re-gearing your differentials. If you have 3.07 or 3.55 gears and you put on 35-inch tires, your Jeep will feel like a slug. You’ll be constantly shifting in and out of overdrive on the highway, and your transmission temperature will skyrocket. Re-gearing to 4.10 or 4.56 is the "correct" way to do it, even though it costs $1,500 to $2,000.
Maintenance is Different Now
A lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee is a high-maintenance relationship. You can't just take it to a Jiffy Lube and expect them to know what's up. You need to be under there every oil change checking the torque on your U-bolts and track bar bolts. Friction is your enemy.
Greaseable ball joints are a godsend. If your lift kit came with them, use them. Every 3,000 miles, hit them with a grease gun until you see a little bit of fresh grease squeezing out of the boot. Also, keep an eye on your alignment. Even a slightly off toe-in setting will eat through a set of $1,200 All-Terrains in less than 10,000 miles.
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The Overlanding Trend
Lately, the Grand Cherokee has become the darling of the overlanding scene. It’s more comfortable than a Wrangler for long hauls but more capable than a RAV4. People are adding roof top tents (RTTs), drawer systems, and fridges. If this is your plan, you must factor in "static load." A standard lift spring will sag under the weight of a tent and 10 gallons of extra fuel. You need "heavy duty" constant-load springs. This is where companies like ARB/Old Man Emu really shine because they offer different spring rates based on how much extra junk you’re carrying in the trunk.
Actionable Steps for Your Build
If you are ready to pull the trigger on a lift, don't just click "buy" on the first kit you see on an ad. Follow this sequence to avoid the "money pit" syndrome.
First, identify your suspension type. Crawl under your Jeep. Do you see air bags or metal coils? If you see air bags and you want to go over 2 inches, start looking for a conversion kit first. If you have coils, you're in luck.
Second, be honest about your tire size. If you want 33-inch tires, you need at least 2.5 inches of lift and likely some minor trimming of the plastic inner fender liners. If you want 35s, stop. Take a breath. Realize you are now looking at cutting metal, re-gearing, and likely upgrading your axles if you plan on doing anything harder than a dirt road.
Third, buy the "supporting mods" at the same time as the lift. Do not wait for your death wobble to start before buying a heavy-duty track bar. Do not wait for your CV boots to rip before buying high-angle UCAs. Do it all at once while the Jeep is already on jack stands. It saves you three Saturdays of re-doing work you already did.
Lastly, get a professional alignment at a shop that understands lifted vehicles. A standard "big box" tire store will try to align it to factory specs, which might not work anymore. You want a tech who knows how to adjust caster to compensate for the new height, especially on the older solid-axle WJs and ZJs. This is the difference between a Jeep that wanders across the lane and one that tracks straight as an arrow at 75 mph.
Build it once, build it right. The Grand Cherokee is a phenomenal platform, but it doesn't forgive "cheap" shortcuts. Focus on the geometry, respect the CV angles, and always, always over-build your cooling system if you’re adding big rubber. Your transmission will thank you when you’re halfway up a mountain pass in the middle of July.