You’ve probably seen them. That specific, slightly flared silhouette poking out from under a pair of beat-up leather boots. It’s a look that hasn't changed much since 1969. While the rest of the fashion world was busy tripping over bell-bottoms and psychedelic polyester, Levi Strauss & Co. quietly dropped the 517. They called it the "Saddleman." It wasn't meant for runway models or disco kings. It was built for guys who actually spent time in a saddle and needed a leg opening that didn't bunch up at the ankle when they shoved their feet into stirrups.
Honestly, it's weird how relevant they still are. You’d think a design over fifty years old would feel like a costume, but the Levi’s 517 bootcut jeans have this strange staying power that defies the "skinny" or "baggy" trend cycles.
The Geometry of a Legend
What makes a 517 a 517? It isn't just a random flare. The magic is in the rise and the thigh. Unlike the 527 (the slimmer, younger brother), the 517 sits right at the waist. It’s a high rise by modern standards. This is crucial. If you’re actually working—bending over, lifting crates, mounting a horse—you don't want your jeans sliding down your hips.
The fit through the seat and thigh is what people usually get wrong. They expect "bootcut" to mean "loose." Nope. Not these. The 517 is notoriously slim through the hip and thigh. It hugs. Then, from the knee down, it breaks into a 18.25-inch leg opening. It’s a subtle slope, not a dramatic bell. That specific width is engineered to cover a standard cowboy boot heel without dragging on the ground and fraying into a muddy mess.
Some people hate the "crotch hug." I get it. If you’re used to modern comfort-fit denim with 5% elastane, a pair of rigid, 100% cotton 517s is going to feel like a suit of armor for the first two weeks. But that’s the point.
Real Denim vs. The Stretchy Stuff
Most jeans you buy today are basically leggings disguised as denim. They’ve got so much polyester and spandex in them that they lose their shape after three hours of wear. Levi’s still makes the 517 in a heavyweight, 12-ounce or 14-ounce rigid denim.
When you first pull them on, they’re stiff. Cardboard-stiff. You might even have trouble sitting down. But here is the thing: cotton has a memory. Over six months, those stiff fibers break down in the exact places you move. The whiskers at the lap, the honeycombs behind the knees—those become permanent. They become your jeans.
There’s a subset of denim enthusiasts who swear by the "shrink-to-fit" philosophy, though the standard 517 is technically preshrunk (sanforized). Even so, expect about a 1% shrinkage. If you buy them too tight thinking they’ll stretch like mall jeans, you’re going to have a bad time. They don't give. They conquer.
📖 Related: Feliz día de la amistad amiga: Why We Need Better Ways to Say It
Identifying the Real Deal
If you’re hunting in a vintage shop or scrolling through eBay, look for the orange tab. Back in the 60s and 70s, Levi's used orange tabs to signify their "fashion" or "non-standard" workwear lines, which included the 517. Today, most new production uses the classic red tab, but the construction remains largely the same. Look for the copper rivets. Look for the reinforced stitching on the back pockets. These are hallmarks of a garment designed to survive a barbed-wire fence.
Why Everyone from Ranchers to Rockstars Wears Them
It’s a polarizing fit. Some style influencers claim the bootcut is dead. They’re wrong.
Look at the history. Beyond the ranch, the 517 became a staple of the 1970s rock scene. It offered a masculine, rugged alternative to the more feminine flares of the era. It provided a silhouette that made legs look longer and shoulders look broader. It’s an optical illusion of sorts. By widening the base of the leg, you balance out the hips. For guys with a larger build, it actually creates a more proportional look than a straight-leg 501 ever could.
Even today, in 2026, you see the influence. High-end designers are constantly "referencing" (read: ripping off) the 517 silhouette for their $800 runway pieces. But why pay for a tribute when the original is sitting in a pile at a western wear store for sixty bucks?
The Great 517 vs. 527 Debate
People get these confused constantly. If you want to look like you’re in a 2004 boy band, buy the 527. It has a lower rise and a wider flare. It’s "lifestyle" denim. The 517 is "utility" denim.
The 517 sits higher.
The 517 is tighter in the seat.
The 517 has a more conservative leg opening.
If you have a flat seat, the 517 might leave you with some extra fabric. If you’ve got "cyclist thighs," you might need to size up in the waist just to get the legs to fit. It’s a demanding cut. It doesn't apologize for its shape.
Survival Tips for Your First Pair
Don't wash them. Okay, that sounds gross, but hear me out. If you buy the rigid (unwashed) version, try to go at least three months before the first soak. This allows the creases to set. When you finally do wash them, use cold water and hang them to dry. Never, ever put rigid denim in a high-heat dryer unless you want them to turn into high-waters that fit your younger brother.
- Sizing: Buy your true waist size if you want a snug, period-correct fit. Size up one inch if you actually plan on eating a large meal or sitting for eight hours.
- Length: Bootcuts need length. If you usually wear a 32-inch inseam, consider a 34. You want that "stack" over the boot. If they’re too short, you look like you’re waiting for a flood.
- Footwear: Do not wear these with slim sneakers. You’ll look like an elf. They need bulk. Think Red Wing boots, Blundstones, or, obviously, Lucchese western boots.
The Sustainability Factor
We talk a lot about "slow fashion" these days. It’s a buzzy term, but the 517 is the embodiment of it. Because they’re made of heavy-duty cotton and lack the fragile elastic fibers that snap over time, a pair of 517s can easily last a decade. They get better as they age. The indigo fades into a beautiful, multi-tonal blue that fake "distressed" jeans can't replicate.
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing a piece of clothing that doesn't care about the current year. The 517 doesn't know what's "trending" on TikTok. It doesn't care about "quiet luxury." It’s just a tool. A heavy, blue, denim tool.
Technical Specs for the Nerds
For those who need the hard numbers:
The rise usually clocks in around 11.5 to 12 inches. The knee measurement is typically 17.5 inches, expanding to that 18.25-inch hem. It’s a "balanced" flare. In terms of fabric, look for the "Rigid" or "Rinse" finishes. Avoid the "pre-faded" versions if you can; the chemicals used to soften them also weaken the fibers, meaning you'll blow out the crotch in half the time.
💡 You might also like: Does Wawa Sell Lottery Tickets? What to Know Before You Head to the Register
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a Car Salesman
The danger with bootcut jeans is looking like you're stuck in 2002. To avoid this, keep the top half modern or classic. A simple, heavyweight white t-shirt tucked in. A rugged denim jacket (yes, the Canadian Tuxedo is encouraged here). A flannel shirt, but keep it fitted.
Avoid wearing them with "dress shoes" or anything too pointy. The weight of the denim demands a substantial sole.
Finding Your Pair
You can find these at most major retailers, but the best versions are often found at specialized Western retailers like Boot Barn or small-town farm supply stores. They carry the "work" versions that haven't been thinned out for department store shelves.
If you're going the vintage route, search for "Single Stitch" or "Small e" tags. Those are the sweet spot for quality and price. If you find a "Big E" pair (pre-1971), you've hit the jackpot, but expect to pay a premium that reflects their status as a collector's item.
Next Steps for the Aspiring Saddleman
If you're ready to commit to the 517 lifestyle, start by measuring your favorite pair of non-stretch jeans. Note the rise specifically. If you aren't used to a high rise, the 517 will feel "tall" at first.
Go to a physical store and try on the rigid indigo version. Walk around. Sit down. If they feel slightly uncomfortable, they’re probably the right size. They will yield to your body within a few weeks of consistent wear.
Once you buy them, wear them hard. Don't baby them. Spill some coffee. Get some dirt on the cuffs. The Levi's 517 bootcut jeans are one of the few things in this world that actually look better the more you beat them up.