You're standing in the gear aisle, or more likely scrolling through a dozen tabs, staring at two tools that look almost identical. One is the classic Leatherman Skeletool. The other is the Skeletool CX. There is a price gap that feels a bit annoying, and you’re wondering if that extra cash is just buying you a fancy "carbon fiber" sticker and a black coat of paint.
Honestly? Most people buy the wrong one because they focus on the "cool factor" instead of how they actually use a knife.
The Skeletool line was a radical departure for Leatherman back in 2007. Before this, multitools were basically heavy bricks you wore on your belt like a 90s cell phone. The Skeletool changed that. It’s a pliers-based tool that actually wants to be in your pocket. But the choice between the base model and the CX isn't just about aesthetics. It’s about the steel, the edge, and whether or not you actually enjoy sharpening your own gear.
The Steel Debate: 154CM vs. 420HC
This is the meat of the sandwich. Basically, the standard Skeletool uses 420HC stainless steel. It’s the "Honda Civic" of knife steels. It’s reliable, incredibly easy to sharpen, and highly resistant to rust. If you're the kind of person who uses their knife to scrape gaskets or poke at things you probably shouldn't, 420HC is great because if you chip it, you can fix it in five minutes with a basic stone.
The CX bumps you up to 154CM.
This is a premium, high-carbon steel. It holds an edge significantly longer than 420HC. We’re talking about a noticeable difference—if you’re cutting cardboard all day, the CX will keep slicing long after the standard Skeletool starts tearing the paper. But there’s a trade-off. 154CM is harder, which means when it finally does go dull, you’re going to spend more time at the sharpening bench. It’s also slightly more brittle.
To Serrate or Not to Serrate?
Here is where the marketing gets a bit confusing.
- Standard Skeletool: Comes with a combo blade (half-straight, half-serrated).
- Skeletool CX: Comes with a straight blade.
Leatherman's logic is that the "premium" user wants a clean, straight edge for precise slicing. Serrations are great for sawing through thick rope or zip ties, but they are a nightmare to sharpen if you don't have the right tapered rod.
I’ve talked to guys who bought the standard Skeletool specifically for the serrations because they work on boats or around heavy rigging. For them, the "cheaper" tool is actually the better one. If you’re mostly opening Amazon boxes and slicing apples, the CX’s straight 154CM blade is a dream.
That "Carbon Fiber" Insert
Let’s be real for a second. The Skeletool CX used to be famous for its carbon fiber insert. People loved it. It looked high-tech.
However, if you buy a brand-new CX today, you might notice something different. In recent years, Leatherman shifted the construction. Many newer CX units actually use a black DLC (Diamond-Like Coating) over stainless steel or aluminum inserts rather than the original carbon fiber.
Does it matter for performance? Not really. The weight difference is negligible—we’re talking about a few grams (roughly 5 oz total for both). But if you’re a collector hunting for that specific carbon fiber weave, you’ll need to check the manufacture date or hit the secondary market. The "C" in CX technically stands for carbon, but today it’s more of a trim level than a structural material.
Where the Skeletool Fails (And Where It Wins)
Don't let the "expert" reviews fool you: this tool is not a replacement for a Leatherman Wave or a Surge. It’s a minimalist.
The Pliers Problem
The pliers on the Skeletool are thin. They are "needle-nose" in the truest sense. If you try to use them to wrench a rusted bolt off a car engine, there is a very real chance you will snap the plier head. I've seen it happen. They are designed for light-duty tasks—pulling a fuse, bending a wire, or holding a small nut while you tighten a screw.
The Ergonomics
Because the tool is "skeletonized" to save weight, it has some sharp edges. When you squeeze the pliers hard, those cutouts can bite into your palm. It’s not a tool for all-day construction work. It’s a tool for the "oh crap, I need a pair of pliers right now" moments.
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The Pocket Clip
This is actually the best part. The Skeletool carries better than almost any other multitool on the market. It feels like a pocket knife. The integrated carabiner is also a genius move—it doubles as a bottle opener, which is arguably the most-used tool for most of us anyway.
Which One Should You Actually Buy?
If you’re still on the fence, ask yourself one question: How often do I sharpen my knives?
If the answer is "never" or "I don't know how," get the Skeletool CX. The 154CM steel will stay sharp long enough to forgive your neglect. Plus, the straight edge is much easier to maintain for a beginner.
If you want a "beater" tool that you can toss in a tackle box, use to saw through rope, and not worry about scratching the finish, save the $30 and get the Standard Skeletool. The combo blade is surprisingly versatile for outdoor tasks, and 420HC steel is virtually immortal if you have a basic sharpener.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your local laws: The blade on both tools is 2.6 inches and it locks. That's legal in most places, but some cities have strict "no-locking" rules.
- Verify the bit: Both come with a Phillips #1 and #2 and a Flathead 1/4" and 3/16". If you need Torx or Hex, you’ll need to buy the separate Leatherman Bit Kit.
- Inspect the pivot: When you get yours, check the blade play. Leatherman has a legendary 25-year warranty, so if it feels "wobbly" out of the box, send it back immediately.
Ultimately, the Skeletool is about what you don't need. It strips away the saws, the files, and the scissors to give you the three things that actually matter: a good blade, a driver, and pliers that don't weigh down your jeans.
Next step: Decide if you prefer a straight edge or a combo blade. Once you know that, the choice between the Skeletool and the CX basically makes itself.