Largemouth Bass vs Smallmouth Bass: What Most Anglers Get Wrong About Finding the Big Ones

Largemouth Bass vs Smallmouth Bass: What Most Anglers Get Wrong About Finding the Big Ones

You're standing on a rickety wooden pier at 5:30 AM. The water looks like glass, maybe a little bit of mist hanging over the lily pads. You cast out a topwater frog, twitch it twice, and the surface explodes. That’s the dream, right? But here’s the thing: if you don’t know whether you’re chasing a largemouth bass or a smallmouth bass, you’re basically just gambling with your lure selection.

Most people think a bass is just a bass. It isn’t.

They’re cousins, sure, but they’re more like the city cousin and the country cousin who haven't spoken in ten years. They eat different snacks. They hang out in different neighborhoods. Honestly, they even fight differently once they're on the hook. If you want to actually start catching fish consistently instead of just "going fishing," you have to understand the weird, specific nuances that separate these two species.

Why Location Is Everything (and Why You're Probably Looking in the Wrong Spot)

If you find yourself staring at a muddy, weed-choked pond with zero current, you are looking for largemouth bass. These guys love the junk. They are the ultimate ambush predators, happy to sit under a thick mat of hydrilla or inside a sunken tire for six hours just waiting for a confused bluegill to swim by. They don't mind warm water. In fact, they thrive in it.

Smallmouth are different. They're picky.

They want oxygen. They want rocks. They want current. If you’re on a big northern lake like Lake Erie or a clear river like the Susquehanna, you’re in smallie territory. While a largemouth hides in the grass, a smallmouth is usually roaming over gravel bars or hanging out near deep rocky drop-offs. They like the cold. According to researchers at the University of Florida's Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS), largemouth can handle water temperatures well into the 80s or even low 90s, while smallmouth start getting stressed and looking for deep, cool water once things hit the mid-70s.

Think of it this way: Largemouth are the couch potatoes of the fish world. Smallmouth are the marathon runners.

The Mouth Test: It’s Not Just a Name

You’ve probably heard that the easiest way to tell them apart is the jaw. It's true. If you close the fish's mouth and the jaw hinge extends past the back of the eye, it’s a largemouth (Micropterus salmoides). If that hinge stops right under the center of the eye, you're holding a smallmouth (Micropterus dolomieu).

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But don't just look at the mouth. Look at the stripes.

Largemouth usually have a dark, jagged horizontal stripe running down their side. Smallmouth have vertical bars—sometimes called "tiger stripes"—that make them look like they belong in a jungle. And the color? Largemouth are typically that classic swampy green. Smallmouth? They’re "bronze." That’s why old-timers call them bronzebacks. Sometimes they’re almost golden, especially when they come up from deep, clear water.

Choosing the Right Lure Without Losing Your Mind

You can’t just throw a giant 10-inch plastic worm and expect a smallmouth to hammer it. I mean, it could happen, but you’re making it hard on yourself. Smallmouth have smaller mouths (go figure), so they tend to prefer smaller, more finesse-oriented baits. Think tubes, hair jigs, or small crankbaits that look like crawfish.

Actually, let's talk about crawfish for a second.

Both species love them, but for smallmouth, it’s basically an obsession. A 2022 study on Great Lakes forage found that in certain areas, crawfish make up over 70% of a smallmouth's diet. If you aren't throwing something brown and orange in rocky water, you’re missing out.

Largemouth are less picky. They’re basically trash compactors with fins. They’ll eat mice, baby ducks, snakes, and other bass. Because they live in heavy cover, you need lures that won't snag.

  • The Texas Rig: A classic for a reason. Hide that hook point in a plastic lizard and throw it right into the middle of a fallen tree.
  • The Hollow Body Frog: This is peak summer fishing. Drag it over the top of lily pads. The strike is violent.
  • Spinnerbaits: Great for covering water when the wind picks up and the largemouth start moving out of the deep weeds to hunt.

Smallmouth tactics require a bit more "feel."

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  • The Ned Rig: It looks like a tiny, pathetic piece of a plastic worm. It looks like nothing. But to a smallmouth, it looks like an easy snack.
  • Drop Shotting: This involves a weight at the bottom and a hook tied about a foot above it. You drop it straight down to fish you see on your electronics. It’s surgical.
  • Jerbaits: In the spring, when the water is still biting cold, a suspending jerkbait is the deadliest weapon for smallmouth. You twitch it, let it sit for ten seconds—literally ten seconds—and then thump.

The Fight: Why Smallmouth Have a Cult Following

Ask any tournament pro—someone like Kevin VanDam, who has won big on both species—and they’ll tell you the same thing. A 4-pound smallmouth will outfight a 4-pound largemouth every single day of the week.

Largemouth are about the initial explosion. They hit hard, they try to dive back into the weeds to tangle your line, and if they don't get away in the first thirty seconds, they usually give up. They "bucket" their mouths open, creating drag, but they don't have the stamina.

Smallmouth are mean.

They are acrobats. They will jump three feet out of the water the second they feel the hook. Then they’ll dive under the boat. Then they’ll jump again. They don't quit until they're in the net. It’s high-voltage fishing. This is why people travel hundreds of miles to places like the St. Lawrence River just to catch fish that aren't even that big on paper. The "pound-for-pound" argument is real.

Seasonal Shifts: Where They Go When the Weather Turns

In the spring, both species head toward the shallows to spawn. This is the easiest time to catch them, but it’s also the most sensitive time for the population. Smallmouth look for hard bottoms—sand or gravel. Largemouth look for softer bottoms near protection, like a stump or a dock pilings.

When summer hits, the largemouth stay relatively shallow or move to the "weed edge" where the deep water starts. Smallmouth, however, vanish. They might head to 30 or 40 feet of water. If you don't have good sonar, catching summer smallies is a nightmare. You’re looking for "humps"—underwater hills that rise up from the bottom.

Winter is a different game entirely.
Both fish slow down. Their metabolism drops. They don't need to eat every day. To catch a largemouth bass or a smallmouth bass in January, you have to move your lure so slowly it feels like you're doing nothing. Then move it slower.

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The Gear You Actually Need (Stop Overcomplicating It)

You don't need a $70,000 bass boat to do this. You really don't. But you do need the right rod.

For largemouth in the weeds, you need "heavy" gear. A baitcasting reel with 15-20 lb test fluorocarbon or even 50 lb braided line. Why? Because when a 5-pounder wraps your line around a thick lily pad stem, you have to be able to winch him out like you're towing a truck. If you use light line, you’re just going to leave a hook in a fish's mouth and go home crying.

For smallmouth, think light.
A spinning reel is usually better. 6 lb or 8 lb test line is standard. The water they live in is often crystal clear; if they see thick line, they aren't going to bite. It's that simple. They’re smart. Or at least, they’re observant. Using a long, medium-light rod helps absorb those crazy jumps so the hook doesn't tear out of their mouth.

Conservation and the "Local" Problem

There's a bit of a controversy in the fishing world right now. In some places, smallmouth are considered an invasive species because they’ve been introduced to waters where they don't belong. They are aggressive. They can outcompete local fish for food.

In the Adirondacks, for example, there’s been a long-standing struggle with smallmouth moving into trout waters. While they’re fun to catch, they can wreck a local ecosystem if they weren't supposed to be there. Always check your local regulations. Some places have "catch and release only" for bass, while others might actually want you to keep the smallmouth to save the trout.

Actionable Steps for Your Next Trip

If you want to stop guessing and start catching, follow this checklist before you even hitch up the boat:

  1. Check the Clarity: Is the water stained or "dirty"? Lean toward largemouth tactics. Is it clear enough to see the bottom in six feet of water? Look for smallmouth.
  2. Scan the Bottom: Use a map app (like Navionics) to look for structure. No weeds? Focus on the rocky points for smallies. Plenty of "green" on the sonar? Target the largemouth in the grass.
  3. Match the Hatch: If the lake is full of shad (silver baitfish), use silver lures. If it’s a pond full of frogs and crawfish, go with greens and browns.
  4. Watch the Temperature: If the water is over 80 degrees, don't waste your time looking for smallmouth in the shallows. Go deep or switch your focus to largemouth in the shade.
  5. Adjust Your Drag: Keep it tight for largemouth to keep them out of the weeds. Loosen it for smallmouth so they don't snap your light line when they leap.

Knowing the difference between a largemouth bass and a smallmouth bass isn't just about trivia. It’s about respect for the fish and the environment they live in. One is a powerhouse of the shadows, and the other is a bronze warrior of the open water. Both are incredible, but they require two completely different mindsets. Next time you're on the water, don't just throw a lure. Think about who's actually down there looking back at it.