You’ve seen the photo. It’s all over Instagram and Pinterest—a massive, deep blue lake that looks like it’s floating hundreds of feet directly above the churning North Atlantic. It looks impossible. Honestly, when you first see Lake Sørvágsvatn, your brain struggles to make sense of the geometry. It looks like a glitch in the Earth’s physics engine. People call it "the lake above the ocean," but here’s the thing: it’s mostly a trick of the light and a very specific camera angle.
The Faroe Islands are full of these moments.
Located on the island of Vágar, Lake Sørvágsvatn (or Leitisvatn, depending on which village you’re standing in) is the largest lake in the Faroese archipelago. It’s stunning. It’s dramatic. But it isn't actually floating. The lake sits in a natural depression about 30 meters above sea level, while the massive cliffs surrounding it—specifically Trælanípa—tower up to 142 meters. When you stand at the right spot on the cliff’s edge and point your camera down, the perspective flattens. The height of the cliff hides the 100-meter gap between the water level and the cliff top, making the lake appear to be perched precariously on the very rim of the world.
The Battle of the Names: Sørvágsvatn vs. Leitisvatn
Local geography is rarely simple. If you’re talking to someone from the village of Sørvágur, to the west, they’ll call it Sørvágsvatn. They take great pride in this. They’ll tell you the lake is named after their village because the land surrounding it historically belonged to them.
However, head over to the east side, near the villages of Miðvágur and Sandavágur, and you’ll hear a different story. Those folks call it Leitisvatn, because the land on their side is known as Leiti.
It’s a bit of a local feud, though a friendly one. Most Faroese people just call it "Vatnið," which literally translates to "The Lake." Simple. Efficient. Very Faroese. For the sake of travelers trying to find it on a map or GPS, Sørvágsvatn is the name that usually wins out, but don't be surprised if the trail markers or locals use the alternative.
The Dark History of Trælanípa
The most famous viewpoint for the lake is a cliff called Trælanípa. The name sounds rugged and Nordic, which it is, but the translation is pretty grim. It means "Slave Cliff."
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Historians and local lore suggest that this name dates back to the Viking Age. The legend goes that the Norse settlers would push "surplus" or "unproductive" slaves off this 142-meter precipice into the ocean below. It’s a jarring contrast—standing in one of the most beautiful places on the planet while realizing it has such a brutal namesake.
When you stand there today, the wind is usually howling. It’s raw. You feel the weight of the North Atlantic gales hitting the basalt rock. There’s a specific kind of vertigo that hits you at Trælanípa that isn't just about the height; it’s about the sheer power of the waves crashing against the base of the rock far below.
Bøsdalafossur: Where the Lake Meets the Sea
The lake doesn't just sit there. It has an exit strategy. At the southern end of the lake, the water overflows into the Bøsdalafossur waterfall. This is where the freshwater officially gives up and tumbles 30 meters directly into the salt water of the Atlantic.
If the weather is particularly nasty—which, let’s be real, is about 70% of the time in the Faroe Islands—the wind can actually catch the waterfall and blow the water back up over the cliffs. It’s a chaotic, beautiful mess. To see the falls properly, you have to hike across some fairly slick, rocky terrain, but seeing that direct connection between the calm lake and the violent ocean is essential for understanding the local ecosystem.
Geologic Reality Check
- Actual Lake Elevation: Roughly 30 meters (about 100 feet).
- Trælanípa Cliff Height: 142 meters (about 465 feet).
- The "Illusion" Gap: A difference of over 100 meters that disappears when photographed from the "classic" angle.
- Lake Depth: Maximum depth is about 59 meters, meaning the bottom of the lake is actually below sea level.
Getting There Without Getting Lost
You can't just drive up to the edge of the lake. Well, you can drive to the trailhead, but then you’ve got to put in the work. The hike starts just outside the town of Miðvágur.
For years, this was just a casual sheep path. Now, because of the explosion in tourism, there’s a proper trailhead and, yes, a hiking fee. As of 2025, expect to pay around 200 DKK (roughly $30 USD) per person. Some people grumble about it, but the money goes toward maintaining the path and preventing the fragile peat soil from being turned into a mud pit by thousands of boots.
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The hike is "easy" by Faroese standards, which means it’s mostly flat but can be incredibly muddy. It takes about 45 minutes to an hour each way. You’ll be walking alongside the lake for most of the trek, watching the sheep watch you. They’re used to hikers. They won't move.
The British Occupation and the "Lake" Airport
During World War II, the Faroe Islands were a strategic point in the North Atlantic. The British Royal Engineers arrived in 1941 and chose the area right next to Lake Sørvágsvatn to build an airfield. Why? Because the lake provided a perfect landing spot for seaplanes, and the flat land nearby was the only place on the mountainous island of Vágar that could accommodate a runway.
This airfield eventually became Vágar Airport, the only international airport in the islands. When you fly in today, you’re basically landing on a piece of history that was built because this specific lake existed. The British also used the lake to hide their ships from German reconnaissance; the high cliffs and frequent fog provided a natural "stealth" mode.
Photographing the Illusion: What Pro Tips Don't Tell You
If you want "The Shot"—the one where the lake looks like it’s floating—you have to climb. Once you reach the end of the lake trail, don't just stop at the water's edge. You need to head up the steep, grassy slope of Trælanípa.
Here’s the secret: you need a wide-angle lens, but you also need to stand further back than you think. If you get too close to the edge, you lose the scale. You want to line up the lake’s surface with the horizon line of the ocean.
Also, watch the weather. If the clouds are too low, you won't see the ocean at all, and the "floating" effect disappears into a white void. If it’s too sunny (a rare problem), the shadows can break the illusion. The best light is usually that moody, overcast, "end of the world" gray that the Faroes do so well.
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Why Sørvágsvatn Matters Beyond the Photo
It’s easy to dismiss this place as just another "Instagram spot." But for the people living in Vágar, the lake is a vital resource. It’s been a source of fish for centuries. It’s a landmark that defines their territory.
There’s a nuance to the Faroes that most travelers miss. We see a "floating lake," but the locals see a complex drainage system, a historical defense site, and a piece of land that has sustained families through brutal winters. The lake is deep—nearly 60 meters in parts—and its volume is massive. It stays relatively still even when the ocean just meters away is throwing 10-meter swells against the rocks. That contrast between the "still" and the "storm" is basically the soul of these islands.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
Don't just show up in sneakers. The Faroe Islands will ruin your favorite white Nikes in ten minutes.
- Check the Wind: If the wind is gusting over 15-20 m/s, reconsider the hike. The cliffs at Trælanípa are no joke, and there are no guardrails. People have been blown off.
- Pay the Fee at the Kiosk: The trailhead has a small building with credit card facilities. Don't try to sneak around; it’s disrespectful to the local landowners who manage the trail.
- Layers are Life: You will be sweating on the climb up Trælanípa and freezing the second you stop to take a photo. Wool base layers are the only way to go.
- Timing: Everyone goes at 10:00 AM. If you want some solitude, go later in the afternoon. During the summer, it doesn't get dark anyway, so a "sunset" hike at 10:00 PM is perfectly doable and way less crowded.
- Drone Use: Be careful. The islands have strict drone laws, especially near the airport (which is right there). You need to stay below 100 meters and at least 5km away from the airport unless you have specific permits.
Lake Sørvágsvatn is one of those rare places that actually lives up to the hype, even once you know the "secret" of the illusion. It’s not actually floating, but when you’re standing on that cliff edge with the wind hitting your face and the gulls screaming below you, it certainly feels like it is.
The next step for any visitor is to secure a rental car well in advance, as Vágar's supply is limited. Once you have wheels, aim for the Miðvágur trailhead early in the morning to beat the tour buses. Pack a high-quality waterproof shell and a pair of sturdy hiking boots with deep lugs; the "path" is often just a stream of mud. Most importantly, give yourself at least three hours for the total trip so you can sit at the top of Trælanípa and watch the North Atlantic move—it's the best show on Earth.