.jpg)
You’re basically in Mozambique, but you’re actually in Malawi. It’s confusing.
If you look at a map of Lake Malawi, you’ll see Likoma Island sitting way over on the eastern side, completely surrounded by Mozambican waters. It’s an enclave. A weird little historical quirk left over from when the Anglican missionaries decided to set up shop there in the late 1800s to escape the slave traders on the mainland. They didn't want to leave, so when the borders were drawn, the island stayed Malawian.
Honestly, most people who visit Malawi never make it here. It’s a trek. You either have to catch a tiny plane that feels like a tin can with wings, or you hop on the Ilala—a legendary, slightly rusty ferry that has been chugging across the lake since the 50s. If you take the boat, you’re in for a 12-hour (or 24-hour, depending on the engine’s mood) journey.
But once you step off into the crystal clear water, you realize why people bother. It’s not just another "beach destination." It’s a giant rock covered in baobabs and mango trees, dropped into a freshwater sea that holds more fish species than almost any other lake on earth.
The Massive Cathedral You Wouldn't Expect
Let's talk about St. Peter’s Cathedral. It’s ridiculous, really. You’re on a remote island in Africa, walking through dusty paths where goats are the primary traffic concern, and suddenly there’s this massive stone structure that looks like it belongs in a European city.
It’s roughly the same size as Winchester Cathedral.
The missionaries started building it in 1903. They used local granite and hauled everything else in. The stained glass? Beautiful. The carved soapstone? Intense. It’s the heart of the island. If you go on a Sunday, the singing will literally vibrate through your chest. Even if you aren't religious, the sheer scale of the ambition required to build this thing on Lake Malawi Likoma Island is mind-blowing. They didn't have cranes. They had community effort and a lot of patience.
👉 See also: 3000 Yen to USD: What Your Money Actually Buys in Japan Today
Walking around the cathedral grounds feels like stepping back into a different century. The bells ring out over the water, mixing with the sound of kids playing football nearby. It isn't a museum; it’s a living, breathing part of the community.
Snorkeling With Evolution
If you aren't into old buildings, you’re probably here for the water.
The lake is famous for cichlids. These aren't just boring grey fish. They are bright yellow, electric blue, striped, and spotted. Evolution went crazy here. Because Likoma is isolated by deep water from the mainland, many of the fish species around the island are endemic—meaning they exist only here.
Grab a mask and just face-plant into the water near Kaya Mawa or Mango Drift. You don't even need a boat. Within five feet of the shore, you're surrounded by hundreds of these "aquarium fish" that are surprisingly aggressive about defending their little rock territories.
The water is fresh. No salt. No stinging eyes. Just clear, cool liquid that feels more like a swimming pool than a lake. Just watch out for the occasional crocodile warning—though, honestly, they usually stick to the mainland river mouths rather than the rocky shores of Likoma. Still, ask the locals. They always know where it’s safe.
Where To Actually Stay
You have two main vibes here.
✨ Don't miss: The Eloise Room at The Plaza: What Most People Get Wrong
There’s the high-end, "I want to feel like a desert island castaway with a private chef" vibe at Kaya Mawa. It’s been voted one of the most romantic places in the world by various travel mags, and for good reason. The rooms are built into the rocks, using the natural landscape as walls. It’s stunning. But it’ll cost you.
Then you have Mango Drift. This is for the backpackers, the divers, and the people who don't mind a bit of sand on the floor. It’s on the western side of the island, which means you get the best sunsets. Sitting there with a cold 'Greens' (the local Carlsberg beer) while the sun drops behind the mountains of the Malawi mainland in the distance is... yeah, it's hard to beat.
The Logistics of Getting Lost
Getting to Lake Malawi Likoma Island is the part that scares people off.
- The Ilala Ferry: It’s an experience. If you value personal space, book a cabin. If you want the real story, sit on the deck. You’ll be sharing space with bags of maize, chickens, and families traveling between ports. It stops at Likoma usually once or twice a week.
- The Small Planes: Nyassa Air Taxi or Ulendo Airlink. It’s a 1-hour flight from Lilongwe. You get an incredible view of the rift valley, but it’s pricey.
- The Water Taxi: If you’re coming from Nkhata Bay, you can sometimes find private boats, but the lake can get rough. The "Mwera" wind is no joke. It can kick up waves that look like the Atlantic.
The island itself is small enough to walk across in an hour or two. There are very few cars. Mostly just a few motorbikes (boda-bodas) and people walking. It’s quiet. So quiet you can hear the water lapping against the rocks from almost anywhere.
Why People Get Likoma Wrong
People think it’s just a beach extension of a safari. It’s not.
The culture here is distinct. Because it’s an island, there’s a sense of safety and community that feels different from the mainland. People know each other. You can wander into the main market, grab some kondowole (cassava porridge) and fish, and just sit. Nobody is really rushing.
🔗 Read more: TSA PreCheck Look Up Number: What Most People Get Wrong
The misconception is that it's a "resort island." It’s an inhabited island with villages that happens to have a few resorts on it. You aren't separated from the locals by high fences. You’re walking through their backyards, and they’re walking past your lodge to get to the water. It’s integrated.
Dealing With The Practicalities
Let's be real for a second.
Malaria is a thing. You're on a tropical lake. Take your meds, use the mosquito nets, and wear repellent at dusk. The heat can also be brutal in October and November before the rains start. We're talking 35°C+ with high humidity.
Electricity can be spotty. Most lodges use solar, but don't expect 5G fiber internet. You come here to disconnect. If you need to be on Zoom calls all day, Likoma will frustrate the hell out of you. If you want to read a book under a baobab tree and forget what year it is, you’ve found the right place.
Real Actions For Your Trip
If you're actually planning to head out there, don't just wing it.
- Cash is King: There are no ATMs on the island that reliably take international cards. Bring all the Malawian Kwacha you think you’ll need, and then bring 20% more.
- Book the Ferry Early: If you're doing the Ilala, try to secure a cabin through an agent in Lilongwe or Monkey Bay. Sleeping on the deck is "authentic" for about three hours until the wind picks up.
- Pack Light: If you’re flying in, those small planes have strict weight limits. 15kg is usually the max, and they prefer soft-sided bags.
- Respect the Cathedral: It’s an active place of worship. If you visit, dress modestly. Cover your shoulders and knees.
Lake Malawi Likoma Island isn't for the traveler who wants everything sanitized and scheduled. It’s for the person who doesn't mind a little dust, a long boat ride, and the best freshwater snorkeling in Africa. It's a weird, beautiful, isolated rock that somehow feels more like home than most tourist traps ever will.
Pack a torch, some sturdy sandals, and leave your "hurry" at the airport in Lilongwe. You won't need it here.