You’ve probably seen the photos. Those jagged, emerald-green peaks rising straight out of the water like something out of a Tolkien novel or a high-budget Viking drama. People call the Lake Koman Ferry the "world’s most beautiful boat ride," which sounds like total hyperbole until you’re actually sitting on a rusted metal deck with a stray dog and a local farmer carrying a sack of flour.
It’s raw.
Honestly, calling it a "lake" is technically a lie. It’s a reservoir. Back in the 1970s and 80s, the Albanian communist regime dammed the Drin River to create a hydroelectric project. They flooded these deep, narrow canyons, and in doing so, accidentally created one of the most stunning inland waterways on the planet. But don't expect a luxury cruise. This isn't the Swiss Alps where you get a heated cabin and a glass of Chardonnay. This is the Accursed Mountains. The name should give you a hint about the vibe.
Getting to the Lake Koman Ferry Without Losing Your Mind
If you’re starting in Shkodër, your day starts early. Like, 6:00 AM early.
Most travelers book a "furgon"—the local term for a minibus—to take them to the Koman dam. The road is... well, it’s an experience. For about two hours, you’ll bounce along a narrow, winding track that seems more like a collection of potholes than an actual road. If you have motion sickness, take the pills. Seriously. You’ll be sharing the space with backpackers from Berlin and locals heading home to remote villages that aren't accessible by any other means.
When you arrive at the dam, it looks like a construction site. There is a dark, damp tunnel you have to drive through to reach the "port." It feels slightly sketchy. That’s normal. Emerging from that tunnel to see the water for the first time is one of those travel moments that actually lives up to the hype.
Which boat should you actually take?
You have choices, but they aren't always clear.
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- The Berisha Ferry: This is the big one. It carries cars and larger groups. If you’re driving a rental car from Tirana to Valbona, this is your ride. It’s stable, has plenty of room to walk around, and offers the best "grand" views.
- The Dragobia Boat: This is a converted bus. No, really. They took an old bus body and welded it onto a boat hull. It’s faster, louder, and way more "local." It departs Koman around 9:00 AM.
- Small Passenger Boats: There are smaller, faster boats like the "Mario Molla" that run to specific guesthouses or shorter tours.
I’d personally recommend the Berisha if you want to soak in the scenery without the engine noise rattling your teeth. It takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to get from Koman to Fierza. Time flies when you're staring at limestone cliffs that feel close enough to touch.
Why the Landscape Actually Matters
The geology here is fascinating. You're moving through the heart of the Dinaric Alps. These mountains are made of karst limestone, which is why the water has that weirdly opaque, milky turquoise color. It’s caused by mineral runoff.
As the Lake Koman Ferry carves through the water, the canyon narrows significantly. At some points, the walls are only fifty meters apart. You look up and see tiny stone houses perched on ledges that look impossible to reach. There are no roads to these houses. People living there rely entirely on small wooden boats to get mail, food, and medical supplies. It’s a way of life that hasn't changed much since the dam was built, or even decades before that.
The Logistics: Prices, Times, and Realities
Let’s talk money and timing because the internet is full of outdated info.
As of 2025 and heading into 2026, the price for a foot passenger is roughly 10 Euros (about 1000-1200 LEK). If you're bringing a car, expect to pay around 25-30 Euros depending on the size.
Pro tip: You must book the car ferry in advance during the summer months (June to September). There is only one car ferry a day in each direction. If it's full, you're stuck in Koman, and Koman is not a place you want to be stuck. There is basically one hotel and a lot of dust.
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- Departure from Koman: Usually 9:00 AM.
- Arrival in Fierza: Around 11:30 AM or 12:00 PM.
- Return from Fierza: Usually 1:00 PM.
Most people use the ferry as a bridge to get to Valbona National Park. When you get off the boat in Fierza, there will be a swarm of minibus drivers yelling "Valbona! Valbona!" Grab one. It's about another hour-long drive to the mountains.
What Most People Get Wrong About This Trip
People think this is a sightseeing tour. It isn't. It’s public transport.
Because it’s public transport, it’s not always "clean." You might see some plastic floating in the eddies near the dam. Albania is still struggling with waste management in rural areas, and the spring thaws wash trash down from the mountains. It sucks, but it’s the reality. Don’t let it ruin the trip; the vast majority of the ride is pristine.
Also, don't expect a buffet. There might be a guy selling lukewarm coffee and bags of chips on the Berisha, but that’s it. Pack a sandwich from Shkodër. Bring water.
The Shala River "Side Quest"
Lately, people have been skipping the full ferry to Fierza and taking a smaller boat to the Shala River (Lumi i Shalës). They call this the "Thailand of Albania."
Is it beautiful? Yes. The water is crystal clear and freezing cold.
Is it crowded? Also yes.
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In the last two years, Shala River has become an Instagram hotspot. It’s full of beach umbrellas and loud music during July and August. If you want peace and the "epic" feeling of the Albanian Alps, stick to the main Lake Koman Ferry all the way to Fierza. If you want a party on a riverbank with a cocktail in your hand, head to Shala.
Safety and Comfort
The boats are old. The railings might be a bit shaky. You’ll be fine. These captains have been navigating these waters since the day the reservoir filled up.
Weather is the biggest factor. Even in mid-July, the wind whipping through the canyons can be biting. Even if it's 35°C in Shkodër, bring a light jacket or a hoodie. The temperature drops significantly once the boat picks up speed and you’re in the shadows of the peaks.
Practical Steps for Your Journey
If you're planning this right now, here is exactly how to execute it without the stress:
- Book through the official website: Use komaniferry.al or albaniaferry.com. Don't just show up and hope for a spot if you have a vehicle.
- Stay in Shkodër the night before: Don't try to drive from Tirana the morning of. It’s a 4-hour ordeal and you will miss the boat. Wander through the Shkodër pedestrian zone (Pjaca) and get a good night's sleep.
- Cash is king: While booking online works for the ferry, the minibuses and the cafes at the docks only take LEK or sometimes Euros. Don't rely on cards.
- The Valbona-Theth Hike: Use the ferry as your "in." Take the boat to Fierza, a van to Valbona, stay two nights, then hike over the Valbona Pass to Theth. From Theth, you can catch a van back to Shkodër. This is the "Grand Loop" and it’s the best way to see the North.
- Check the season: The ferries generally run from April to October. In the winter, the lake can freeze or the roads become impassable due to snow.
This trip isn't about luxury. It's about the scale of the earth. When you're sitting on that deck and the engine cuts out for a moment, and all you hear is the water hitting the hull and the wind in the pines, you'll realize why people make such a fuss about this place. It’s one of the few places left in Europe that feels truly unconquered.