You're scouring the listings for a KLR 250 for sale, and I get it. Honestly, there's something about this bike that just makes sense. It isn't flashy like a brand-new KTM, and it doesn't have the fuel-injected polish of a KLX300. But man, it’s a tank.
The Kawasaki KLR 250 (the KL250D for the nerds) is a weird relic. It was produced from 1984 all the way to 2005 with almost no changes. Think about that. While the rest of the world was moving to digital dashes and EFI, Kawasaki was still pumping out this liquid-cooled, kick-start-only dinosaur. And yet, people still hunt them down today.
Why You're Looking for a KLR 250 for Sale
Most people want one because they’re cheap. Or at least, they used to be. Lately, the "cheap bike" market has gone a bit sideways, but you can still find a decent KLR 250 for anywhere between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on how much the previous owner loved—or abused—it.
It’s the "Piglet." That’s what we call it since the 650 is the "Pig."
It’s heavy for a 250. Around 258 pounds dry. That sounds like a lot until you realize it’s basically a tractor with two wheels. It has a six-speed transmission, which is actually pretty rare for older small-bore dual sports. That sixth gear is a lifesaver. It means you can actually hit 70 mph on the highway without feeling like the engine is going to disassemble itself right between your legs.
The Kick-Start Reality
Let’s be real for a second. If you find a KLR 250 for sale and you’ve never used a kick-start bike, you’re in for a workout. There is no magic button.
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You’ve got to learn the "drill." It’s a process:
- Turn on the fuel.
- Pull the choke.
- Find top-dead center (TDC) with the kicker.
- Give it one solid, committed swing.
If the valves are out of spec or the carb is dirty, you will be kicking until your leg falls off. But when it’s dialed in? One kick. Every time. It’s a point of pride for owners.
What to Check Before Handing Over Your Cash
Don't just buy the first shiny green one you see on Marketplace. These bikes are old. Even the newest one is over 20 years old now.
Valves are the big one. This bike has a shim-and-bucket valve train. Unlike the 650 which uses screw-type adjusters, these are a bit more of a pain to service. Owners often ignore them. If the bike is hard to start when it’s hot, the valves are probably tight. That’s a red flag. If they get too tight, they’ll burn, and then you’re looking at a head rebuild that costs more than the bike.
The Cam Chain Tensioner. The stock automatic tensioner on these can be... temperamental. A lot of guys swap them out for manual ones. Listen for a "marbles in a tin can" sound coming from the right side of the engine. If it rattles, walk away or use it to knock $500 off the price.
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The "Doohickey" Myth. Everyone talks about the KLR 650’s balancer chain lever (the doohickey). The 250 doesn't have that exact failure point, but it does have a balancer system. It's generally more reliable, but you should still keep an eye on the oil. These engines only hold about 1.5 liters of oil. If you run it low, the top end gets toasted instantly.
KLR 250 vs. Everything Else
Why not just buy a KLR 650?
Weight. That’s why. The 650 is a couch. It’s great for cross-country trips, but it’s a nightmare in tight woods. The 250 is much more flickable. You can actually take the 250 on a single-track trail and not feel like you're wrestling a bear.
Then there’s the KLX250S. That’s the bike that replaced the KLR in 2006. It has better suspension and an electric start. But honestly? The KLR 250 feels more substantial. It has a bigger fuel tank (2.9 gallons) and a much better seat. It’s a better "adventure" 250 than the newer KLXs.
Real Talk: The Highway Experience
Can you ride it on the freeway? Yes.
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Should you? Maybe for a few exits.
The KLR 250 makes about 23 to 28 horsepower depending on the year and the cam profile. It’ll do 65 mph all day, but you’ll be high in the rev range. If there’s a stiff headwind, you’re going to be tucked behind that tiny little fairing like a GP racer just to keep your speed up. It’s much happier on two-lane backroads and fire trails.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Owner
If you’ve found a KLR 250 for sale that looks promising, here is exactly what you should do before you load it onto your truck:
- Check the coolant color. If it looks like chocolate milk, the head gasket is gone. That's common if the bike was overheated.
- Look at the airbox. Pull the side cover. If the air filter is crumbling or missing, the engine has been sucking in dirt. Not good.
- Test the suspension. Bounce on the rear. If it pogo-sticks up and down without any damping, the rear shock is blown. Rebuilding them is tough; most people just buy a Moose Racing or Progressive replacement.
- Shift through all six gears. Don't just ride it in the driveway. Get it up to speed. Make sure it doesn't pop out of gear under load.
Once you buy it, your first three jobs are simple. Change the oil. Clean the air filter. Check the valve clearances. Do those three things and a KLR 250 will probably outlive you. It's a simple, honest machine from an era when bikes were built to be fixed in a driveway with a basic tool kit.
When you're looking at the listing, look for the little things. Is the original tool kit still under the rear rack? Does it still have the original "Unicorn" turn signals? These details tell you if the bike was cared for or if it was just a "beater" for some kid to thrash in a field. Buy the cared-for one. You'll thank me when you're 20 miles deep in the woods and it starts on the first kick.
Next Steps for Buyers
Search local classifieds specifically for "Kawasaki KL250D" as some sellers don't list them as KLRs. Download a PDF of the factory service manual immediately; you will need the torque specs for those valve cover bolts to avoid stripping the soft aluminum threads. Check the date codes on the tires—if they’re more than six years old, budget $200 for a fresh set of Shinko 244s or Dunlop D606s before your first real trail ride.