Shiplap. Say it out loud and you probably picture Joanna Gaines or a seaside cottage in Maine. For a few years there, people were slapping these wooden planks on every vertical surface they could find until it felt like we were all living inside a giant crate. But here’s the thing—kitchen islands with shiplap haven't really gone away. They've just evolved.
Designers are moving past the "farmhouse everything" phase. We’re seeing a shift toward texture that actually serves a purpose. A kitchen island is often a big, chunky block of cabinetry in the middle of a room. It can look heavy. It can look boring. Adding shiplap isn't just about being "country"; it's a clever way to break up that massive visual weight without spending ten thousand dollars on custom fluted millwork.
The Reality of Putting Shiplap on a Kitchen Island
Most people think shiplap is just thin wood strips. Not exactly. Real shiplap has a "rabbet" (a groove) cut into the edges so the pieces overlap. This creates that distinct shadow line. If you just butt boards together, that’s "nickel gap." Does it matter? To your contractor, yes. To the vibe of your kitchen? Maybe.
The real genius of a shiplap island is its ability to take a beating. Think about it. You’ve got kids on barstools. They’re swinging their legs. Their shoes are scuffing the back of the island constantly. If you have a flat drywall back or a high-gloss cabinet panel, those scuffs show up instantly and are a nightmare to clean. Solid wood or MDF shiplap is tough. You paint it with a high-quality semi-gloss or satin trim paint, and you can basically scrub it with a damp rag without ruining the finish.
It’s Not Just for Modern Farmhouse Anymore
Seriously. You can do a contemporary kitchen and still use these lines. If you run the boards vertically, you suddenly have a very modern, Scandi-inspired look. Vertical lines draw the eye up. They make the island feel taller and less like a squat box. I’ve seen some incredible designs by firms like Studio McGee where they use thin, vertical slats—technically a variation of the shiplap concept—to create a texture that feels more like a luxury hotel than a barn.
Materials Matter More Than You Think
Don’t just run to the hardware store and grab the cheapest pine you see. Pine bleeds. The knots in the wood contain tannins that will eventually seep through your white paint and leave yellow spots. It’s annoying. It’s ugly.
If you're painting the island, use MDF shiplap. It’s stable. It doesn't expand and contract as much as real wood when the humidity in your kitchen changes (like when you’re boiling a massive pot of pasta). If you want a natural wood look, go for white oak. White oak is the gold standard right now. It has a tight grain, handles moisture well, and looks expensive because, well, it is.
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- MDF: Best for a smooth, painted finish.
- Cedar: Great for a rustic look, but can be soft and prone to dents.
- Reclaimed Wood: High character, but a nightmare to keep clean if the surface is too rough.
- White Oak: The "quiet luxury" choice. Perfect for clear coats.
Color Mistakes People Keep Making
Stop painting everything stark white. Please. A white kitchen island with white shiplap and a white marble countertop looks like a ghost. It’s too much.
Instead, use the texture of the shiplap to carry a bold color. Navy blue is a classic for a reason—it’s safe but sophisticated. But if you want to be on-trend for 2026, look at "muddy" colors. Earthy greens, deep terracottas, or even a mushroom beige. These colors settle into the grooves of the shiplap and create shadows that make the island look three-dimensional.
I once talked to a cabinet maker in Charleston who swore by "haint blue" for island accents. It sounds crazy until you see it against a dark wood floor. It pops. It feels intentional. That's the key with kitchen islands with shiplap—it has to look like a design choice, not a "we ran out of money for real cabinets" choice.
Installation Secrets the Pros Won't Tell You
Installing this stuff isn't rocket science, but there are a few ways to mess it up.
First: The baseboard. Don't just run the shiplap down to the floor. It looks unfinished. You need to install the shiplap first, then put a baseboard or a "toe kick" over it. This anchors the island. It makes it look like furniture rather than a DIY project.
Second: The corners. This is where most people fail. If you just butt the boards at the corner, you see the raw edges. It looks cheap. You have two real options here. You can miter the edges (cut them at 45-degree angles) so they meet perfectly. This is hard. Or, you can use a corner trim piece to hide the ends. Most high-end builders prefer the mitered look, but it takes a steady hand and a very sharp saw blade.
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Third: Electrical outlets. You’re going to have outlets on your island. It’s the law in most places. Don't put a cheap plastic white cover over your beautiful navy blue shiplap. Spend the $20 on a matching metal cover or paint the plastic one to match. It’s a tiny detail that makes a massive difference in how "expensive" the kitchen feels.
Cost Breakdown: What's This Actually Going to Run You?
Let’s talk numbers. This isn't a "free" upgrade, but it's cheaper than a full custom island.
If you’re doing a standard 6-foot island, you’re looking at roughly 18 to 24 square feet of material for the back and sides.
Low-end MDF or plywood strips might cost you $150 in materials.
High-end pre-primed shiplap or white oak? You’re looking at $500 to $800 just for the wood.
Then there's labor. If you’re hiring a carpenter, expect to pay for a full day of work. They have to cut around the outlets, handle the trim, and sand everything down. In a major city, that’s $600 to $1,000.
So, for a professional-grade kitchen island with shiplap, you should budget around $1,500 including paint and finishing. Is it worth it? Compared to the cost of a new quartz countertop (which can easily be $4,000), it's a relatively cheap way to get a custom look.
Maintenance is the Part Nobody Mentions
Dust. The grooves in shiplap are dust magnets. If you have horizontal shiplap, you will be wiping those little ledges once a week. If you hate cleaning, go vertical. Vertical shiplap doesn't hold dust nearly as much because gravity is on your side.
Also, consider the "kick factor." If people are sitting at the island, their feet are hitting the shiplap. If you use a cheap flat-sheen paint, it will scuff and you won't be able to wipe it off without removing the paint. Use a "Scuff-X" type paint or a high-end cabinet enamel. It’s worth the extra $40 a gallon.
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Why People Think It’s "Out" (And Why They’re Wrong)
Design snobs love to declare trends "dead." They said shiplap died in 2019. Then 2022. Now it's 2026 and people are still buying it. Why? Because it works.
Texture is a fundamental element of design. You need a mix of smooth (countertops), shiny (hardware/faucets), and rough or patterned (backsplashes/islands). Shiplap provides that pattern. The mistake people made was using it on every wall in the house. When you isolate it to just the kitchen island, it becomes an accent. It’s a focal point. It’s not "farmhouse"—it’s just good layering.
Alternative Textures to Consider
If you’re still worried about the shiplap being too "2015," there are variations.
Beadboard is a tighter, more traditional look. It’s great for smaller kitchens.
Tambour (the stuff that looks like a roll-top desk) is very trendy right now for curved islands.
Then there's "planked" wood, which is just wider shiplap without the deep grooves.
Each of these serves the same purpose: adding visual interest to a flat surface. But shiplap remains the most accessible and DIY-friendly of the bunch.
Actionable Steps for Your Kitchen Project
If you're ready to jump in, don't just start nailing boards to your island.
- Measure twice. Calculate the square footage of the island's back and sides, then add 15% for waste and mistakes.
- Pick your direction. Vertical for a modern, height-boosting look; horizontal for a traditional, cozy feel.
- Buy the right paint. Get a trim-grade enamel. Don't use wall paint. It won't last.
- Manage the outlets. Buy "box extenders." Since you're adding thickness to the wall with the wood, your electrical boxes will be recessed. You need extenders so the outlets sit flush with the new shiplap.
- Seal the bottom. Use a small bead of clear silicone at the very bottom where the wood meets the floor. This prevents mop water from soaking into the ends of the boards and causing them to swell.
Designing a kitchen is about balance. A kitchen island with shiplap gives you a chance to introduce a bit of architectural detail into a room that is usually dominated by cold, hard surfaces like stone and stainless steel. It softens the room. It makes it feel like a home rather than a laboratory. Whether you go with a classic white or a moody charcoal, the texture is what will make people stop and look twice. Just keep a microfiber cloth handy for those grooves.