You’re walking down Skillman Avenue, tucked right under the shadow of the BQE, and you see a wooden facade with some gold lettering. It doesn’t look like much from the outside. But once you pull that door open, the smell of wok-charred ginger and the sound of ’90s alt-rock hits you like a physical wall. This is Kings Co Imperial Williamsburg, and honestly, if you haven’t been here yet, you’re missing out on what is arguably the most consistent "cool" dinner in Brooklyn.
It’s been around since 2015. In New York restaurant years, that makes it an ancient landmark. Most trendy spots in Williamsburg flame out after eighteen months when the hype moves to a new natural wine bar three blocks over. But Kings Co Imperial is different. It’s not just a place to be seen; it’s a place where the food actually holds up its end of the bargain.
What’s the vibe?
Think dim lighting, vaulted tin ceilings, and a backyard garden that actually does work. They grow their own greens and herbs back there. It’s cozy. It’s loud. It’s the kind of place where you’re squeezed onto a wooden table next to a couple on a first date and a group of six friends sharing about five orders of dumplings.
The Soy Sauce on Tap (No, Really)
The first thing you’ll notice—besides the Tiki drinks—is the soy sauce. Most places give you those little plastic packets or a sticky Kikkoman bottle. Not here. At Kings Co Imperial Williamsburg, they have soy sauce on tap.
Chef Josh Grinker and his partner Tracy Jane Young are obsessive about this. They actually went to the Pearl River Delta in China and found a family that’s been making soy sauce for four generations. They sun-ferment the soy in huge porcelain vats. The restaurant gets it shipped over and keeps it in a temperature-controlled system so it doesn't oxidize.
Does it matter? Yeah, it really does. It’s deeper, less salty, and has this funky, fermented backbone that makes the mass-produced stuff taste like brown water.
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Why "American" isn't a dirty word here
A lot of people try to label this place "American-Chinese." The owners are Western-trained, and they’ll be the first to tell you they aren't trying to be a traditional hole-in-the-wall. But they use traditional techniques. 120,000 BTU woks. Hand-pulled noodles. They aren't doing "fusion" in the sense of putting foie gras in a lo mein.
Instead, they celebrate the specific joy of American-Chinese staples—the stuff we all grew up eating out of white cardboard boxes—but they treat it with the respect of fine dining.
The Menu Hits You Can't Skip
If you go and don't order the Mock Eel, you’ve basically failed the mission. It’s made from shiitake mushrooms, battered and fried until they have this incredible, snappy-yet-tender texture. It’s sweet, savory, and addictive. Even the most hardcore carnivores usually end up ordering a second plate.
Then there are the Wok Seared Long Dumplings. They use Berkshire pork and garlic stems. They’re long, thin, and have that perfect crispy bottom that only comes from a screaming-hot pan.
- Szechuan Cucumbers: Spicy, cold, and crunchy. Essential for cutting through the richness of everything else.
- Dan Dan Noodles: These aren't for the weak. They use preserved mustard stems and plenty of Szechuan peppercorns. Your mouth will tingle.
- Dry Fried Long Beans: Blistered in the wok with ground pork and pickled vegetables.
The menu is designed for sharing. Don't be the person who orders one entree for themselves. It’s a family-style situation. You want a table covered in plates. You want to be fighting your friends for the last soup dumpling.
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The Drinks: Tiki Under the Bridge
The cocktail program is led by what they call the "Booze Guru." It’s heavily Tiki-influenced. We’re talking Mai Tais on tap, drinks served in pineapples, and a serious rum selection.
There’s something about drinking a "Buddha’s Hand" (gin, sparkling rosé, pineapple cordial) while eating spicy Mapo Dofu that just works. It shouldn't, but it does. The acidity and sweetness of the Tiki drinks are the perfect foil for the "mala" (numbing heat) of the Szechuan dishes.
Dealing With the Logistics
Let’s be real: getting a table at Kings Co Imperial Williamsburg on a Saturday night can be a nightmare. They take some reservations on Resy, but they keep a lot of the tables for walk-ins.
If you show up at 7:30 PM without a plan, expect an hour-plus wait.
Pro Tip: Go early. Or go late. They stay open until 10:00 PM most nights. If you show up around 9:00 PM on a Tuesday, you can usually walk right in and snag a spot at the bar. The bar is actually my favorite place to sit. You get to watch the bartenders work, and the service is usually faster.
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The Pricing Reality
It’s not Chinatown prices. You’re going to spend more here than you would at a spot under the Manhattan Bridge. Expect to pay around $15–$18 for appetizers and $25–$35 for larger wok dishes. Is it worth it? When you factor in the quality of the ingredients—like the heritage pork and the farm-to-table vegetables—it’s a fair trade. You aren't just paying for the food; you're paying for the vibe and the fact that they actually give a damn about where their soy sauce comes from.
Why it Still Matters in 2026
The New York food scene moves fast. New restaurants open and close before you can even bookmark them on Google Maps. Kings Co Imperial has survived because it’s reliable. It’s the "Old Reliable" of Williamsburg, which is a weird thing to say about a hip Chinese joint, but it’s true.
They haven't let the quality slip. The dumplings are still hand-folded every morning. The garden is still producing. The soy sauce is still on tap. In a city that’s constantly trying to find the "next big thing," there’s something deeply satisfying about a place that just keeps doing the current thing perfectly.
Actionable Next Steps
If you’re planning a trip to Skillman Avenue, keep these three things in mind to make it worth the trek:
- Check the Specials: They often have off-menu soup dumplings or seasonal vegetable dishes based on what’s growing in the back. Always ask.
- The "Mock Eel" Rule: Just order it. Even if you think you don't like mushrooms. Trust the process.
- The Backyard: If it’s even remotely warm outside, beg for a seat in the garden. It’s one of the best outdoor dining spots in Brooklyn, hidden away from the street noise.
Whether you're a local who's been twenty times or a visitor looking for one "real" Brooklyn meal, this place delivers. It’s loud, it’s spicy, and it’s exactly what Williamsburg should be.